First XS650 Build, What to Look For

[5twins]

The base gasket usually goes on dry. Some of the later Athena gasket sets have a chemically treated base gasket. Heat releases the treatment and helps it seal. For the head gasket, many of us like to use a little sealer to help it out. Not totally covered, just narrow beads (maybe 1/8") around the oil flowing areas. This includes the cam chain tunnel in the middle and the 4 outer stud holes. I also string a bead across the front .....

I prefer to apply it right to the metal parts, not the gasket. That way I can better keep it out of that little groove around the outer edge of the mating surfaces.

 

[lakeview]

Please explain what that little groove is for if it is important.

 

[5twins]

I don't really know. My best guess is it forms a ridge around the outside of the gasket once the head is torqued down which helps seal it. Kinda like a "dike" against oil leaks.

 

[SlowMaintenance]

Finally bit the bullet and ordered my PMA from HHB. Pamco to come soon, still debating which version to go with. E advancer or no e advancer...decisions decisions.

Also the plan is to finish this in time for the chop off in late august and ride it from MA to OH for that. Hoping I can make progress rapidly from here and get this thing ready for the road! Time to sell all my valuables haha

 

[fredintoon]

Hi Nick,
best you get the bike on the road some weeks before that late August ride so it can be properly road tested before it's too far to push home when something goes wrong.

 

[SlowMaintenance]

Very true, I certainly won't be making the maiden voyage the same as the ride to the event haha.

Right now it's all just money. The engine is solid and almost back together. From there it's just tons of welding work to do. Frame, tabs, mounts, bungs, brackets etc. Gonna be a real familiar face at the local welding shop.

 

[SlowMaintenance]

Also wondering if anyone has a picture of their regulator mounted in the area where the starter motor typically goes. I've heard a lot of people talk about mounting it there, I was initially concerned that the heat from the engine wouldn't play well with the regulator unit but maybe I'm missing something. Do you guys just mount it to a backing plate which is sized for the four bolts that previously held the starter motor?

 

[figure8]

Also wondering if anyone has a picture of their regulator mounted in the area where the starter motor typically goes. I've heard a lot of people talk about mounting it there, I was initially concerned that the heat from the engine wouldn't play well with the regulator unit but maybe I'm missing something. Do you guys just mount it to a backing plate which is sized for the four bolts that previously held the starter motor?

Yes, Pandemonioum sells a plate just for that purpose for like $15 I think. Should be pics of what it looks like mounted on there. As far as heat you should be fine with it so far away from the jugs. Lots of people have gone that route...

 

[SlowMaintenance]

Closest thing I could find, also blocks the oil seal so two birds. But at $45 that seems a little pricey

http://www.shop.fnacustommotorcycle...te-with-regulator-mount-FNA-xs450SBOP-Reg.htm

Forget it, I'll just find a steel plate and drill some holes in the damn thing. How hard could it be. Ordered the freeze plug to block off that starter gear section.

 

[SlowMaintenance]

To confirm, as there are several places from which one could order a PAMCO ignition, does the unit pictured below from yamahaxs650.com contain everything I'd need to install this on my 76 model? If my research is correct, this unit would allow me to scrap (or sell) the mechanical advance unit, but I would need to retain the advance rod. I would also need a coil of 2..5-4.5 ohm resistance, but that's about it.

 

[figure8]

You are correct on the Pamco, FYI the plate from Pandemonioum comes with the freeze plug.

 

[SlowMaintenance]

You are correct on the Pamco, FYI the plate from Pandemonioum comes with the freeze plug.

Can you link this unit? I've gone through the whole "XS650 Parts" Section of their website and can't find any plates.

Thanks!

EDIT: Sorry, I guess they don't include "sale" items under their respective categories once they move. Here is the unit for anyone interested.

http://www.pandemoniumc2.com/#!part...arter-Delete-Kit/p/46227527/category=12354361

 

[figure8]

Yep, just found it.

 

[SlowMaintenance]

Parts, parts, parts...

 

[figure8]

Haha, Dan has good prices.

 

[SlowMaintenance]

Dan has a lot of things I need too lol.

Still need to buy a new tank and exhaust system. The bike had no exhaust on it when I purchased, and I hate the stock tank.

Looking for a low tunnel wassel or frisco style tank, bottom left petcock setup with a sight gauge. Dan sells them but at around $250 I can't decide whether to buy the pipes or the tank first. This is going to get pricey lol

 

[SlowMaintenance]

Ok guys more progress tonight. I decided to get the front end off the frame to prep it for the hardtail. I've never taken a front end off before. If you've never taken a front end off and you're reading this...it's very easy. Here's how you do it.

Sorry for forgetting to snap the before picture, but if your front end is assembled, just look at that and there's your before lol. The front end is held on by the top triple tree and a set of notch nuts below. Here is what the hardware looks like from the top tree. Three bolts and one nut in the center.

When removed they look like this

Those four rubber units hanging out in the back are the handlebar bushings. Two per handlebar riser, one in the bottom and one in the top of the open gaps you see in the first pic

After removing the hardware in the picture above, you can work the top tree off the fork sliders. I did this by pulling gently on the left then right sides in small increments until it freed up. Mine likely hadn't moved in a while, yours may come off easier.

Next you'll see this below that top tree.

I used a punch and hammer to knock this nut counter clockwise.

It loosed to finger tight after a few rotations. Be careful not to mar the nut too badly. It should loosen and begin to move up and off the threads to the smooth part of the stem. Lift both nuts and the spacer off.

You will be left with this

This unit is friction fit into the neck via the tapered reeses peanut butter cup bearing. It probably has a more official name. It's greased quite liberally, so have a rag nearby.

You can now lift this bearing out

At this time I decided to lift off the headlight brackets as I'll be running and aftermarket headlight. They come off very easily once the top tree is off. If anyone is interested in these, $15 plus shipping and they're all yours.

If your bike was resting on the wheel, you'll see the front end shift a bit as you remove the bearing. It was friction fit, so removing it allows the stem to move within the neck. See photo below with cranberry sauce

From here you can lift the frame up and off of the front end. Easy as pie. You'll be left with the front end and frame in two pieces.

Already posted this pic, but posting again to remind you that if you want to remember how this all went together before you removed it...either re read this post or reassemble the top tree on the front end to avoid losing pieces! It will look like this

And you're done!

 

[SlowMaintenance]

Now that that's all set, onto more pressing matters. I found a pretty serious crack in the frame tonight that worries me greatly. Has anyone seen anything like this before? Is it fixable? This is right in front of the right footpeg. No idea how it would have gotten there.

Different angle

Here's how she sits now, awaiting the determination on that frame crack. Might have to get a replacement frame or go full aftermarket if I can't fix this. Sucks

And if anybody wants a crusty centerstand, I know a guy

 

[fredintoon]

Hi Nick,
that bulgy split in the frame was most likely made by the frame being full of water and left outside to freeze.
Fix by grinding the split's edges to weld prep them, torching the area to red heat and carefully hammering the split closed again then welding the split closed.
Then check the frame's lowest points for drain holes.
If there ain't any, use a 1/8" drill bit and make some.

 

[SlowMaintenance]

Good call Fred, I hadn't even thought of that. Also didn't realize frames had drain holes but that makes sense. I'll check for those drain holes tonight. Is one per side sufficient?

Also, on the advice given earlier in this thread about the simplicity of welding, I decided to sign up for a super basic Saturday course on MIG welding to go over the basics. From there I'll buy myself a rudimentary MIG welder and begin practicing. Would be very convenient to be able to add my own tabs for linkages and seat bungs etc.

Class is this Saturday at 8am. Wish me luck