First XS650 Build, What to Look For

No reason to split the chain to remove the crank. there's plenty of room to slide the flywheels past the chain. It is a bit of a handful hanging onto the crank while working the chain over it.
Yes you can work the star gear and shift the trans and see the gears slide and dogs engage through all the gears.
 
Hey guys, so I'm about to place the order on these 2nd oversize pistons per the measurements from the machine shop. Wondering if anybody had any experience with them and whether said experience was positive or negative.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131527195895?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Additionally, after closer inspection of the gears and crank, everything seems to be in good condition. None of the chipped teeth or other various issues outlined in the threads linked by 2M. (Thank you for those btw!)

Still though, I'm going to take the lower end over to my local shop at the end of the street. Bunch of kids who work there and are quite experienced, have helped out with a few things along the way free of charge like the clutch hub nut and they also are boring the cylinders for me. Figured I'd like to get a second set of eyes on it and see if anything jumps out at them. Particularly with the crank, and whether or not welding it to reinforce will be necessary.

I'll be swinging over there tonight, and I'll update you guys as soon as I have more info. Very excited to start getting this thing back together and move on to the next steps in my list.
 
So far, reports are good on those pistons. I hope they're good because I bought 2 sets (yet to install), lol. The price is so good compared to Mike's that what you save should cover the cost of boring.
 
Curious to know the cost on boring actually, going to be stopping by the shop tonight so I will inquire at that time as to what the total cost for both cylinders will be. Trying to determine the best route to take.
 
Hey guys, popping back in as it's been quite a long time since my last post. In the meantime, I've been waiting on those Cruizinimage pistons from Japan, cylinders are over at the machine shop, crank is at my local shop getting inspected as well so the progress can't move much until the parts arrive and inspection is complete.

Engine internals aside, I've got a question on which I've done some extensive research but can't find a clear answer. I mentioned earlier in this thread about a desire to use the joe wiseguy 2-1 intake, as I've never owned a bike with two carbs and don't plan on starting now lol. I've poured over the TeeCat thread, which I'll link below for anyone who is reading this and may be interested in the information.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3647

The only issue with the information provided here is that it pertains to the "tracker" version of the 2-1 intakes. A similar style is also sold by CounterBalanceCycles which many have used with great results.

I'd much prefer to use the "bobber" version as it sets the carb a little further away from the hot engine fins and frame rails. After some horrible experiences trying to tune my road star carb while avoiding first degree burns (because tuning requires that ride it, mess with it, repeat type process) I decided that this bike is going to be built with a focus on ease of maintenance, in the hopes of changing my neglectful ways.

My concern is with runner length, and the angles of the bends on the runners themselves. Here's the carb I'm looking at

http://www.joewiseguy.com/bobber_2_into_1.html

If anyone has had experience with it, and can lend any insight into jetting I'd be curious to know how it differs (if at all) from the TeeCat suggestions I found below. Research has shown that longer runners often require richer jetting to account for the increased distance between carb and cylinder, so I'm hoping to avoid purchasing more brass than I need by starting off closer to where I need to end up.

25 PJ
200 MJ
159-P8 Needle Jet
6F9 Needle Clip in position 4
Air Jet Removed
A/F Screw 1.5 turns out

EDIT: I live right on the water so my elevation is 0. I live in the Northeast, USA so temperature also fluctuates greatly in my area, if that matters at all.

Thanks guys!
 
itrguy posted a pic of his bike with this same joes manifold stating that it starts first kick and pulls well. No info provided on whether his plugs were fouling though. But there were two separate people in that thread which made their own manifolds. One had fuel delivery problems and the other did not. Not sure what to take away from it, but it was nice to see that someone was running the same joe wiseguy manifold and enjoyed the way the bike ran! Hoping he will show back up in this thread to recommend jetting specifics, I sent a pm.

EDIT: Scratch that, looks like he sold his bike back in 2014 and hasn't posted since. Search continues.
 
Please let us know how long it takes to get the pistons from order to delivery.
 
Thanks for doing this thread Nick, I've enjoyed the heck out of it.

I have no experience with the one carb modification but I have to say that I do have a lot of respect for the Japanese guy, whoever he was, that said, "every cylinder gets its own carburetor".

Scott
 
Hey Scott,

Glad to hear that! Was hoping that it would be helpful to others out there.

As for the one carb mod, I guess I've always been on the other side of the fence with that. Having owned a suzuki intruder, a harley sportster and a yamaha road star, it feels so odd to me that a bike would have two carbs as the last three I owned all had single carb setups and two cylinders.

With regard to that comment about a cylinder getting it's own carb though, I certainly can't argue that if performance is the main goal and the bike is going to be raced, dual carbs are the way to go. For more recreational purposes though, I think you might find the single carb application more simple to work on if working on the carb is something you find yourself doing with any frequency.

I'll keep you posted with how it turns out, currently working out a private sale with another user on here who is looking to get rid of an extra one.
 
Thanks for this thread, just tearing down my first of two projects and realizing I didn't take as many pics as I should have for reassembly. This bails me out. I owe you a beer if you are ever in Charlotte.
 
As promised, the CruzinImage ebay pistons have arrived on 1/29/16, after ordering on 1/21/16. Not bad at all coming from Japan. Ordered a pair of jeans from california the other day that took way longer than that to arrive lol. Here's a few shots of the new hardware. They look clear and free of all any burrs/blemishes, but the machine shop tech is the one who I'll be most curious to hear from as his experience far trumps any armchair reasoning I might be able to offer.

The boxes
pO8tYof.jpg


Opening the boxes
D3YqDKw.jpg


Shot of the rings in package
9AvBroG.jpg


Closer shot of the rings w/ "50" engraved on it
xMPnmF3.jpg


Shot of the ring in package
BN2bv5F.jpg


Clips as well
w7ctBrQ.jpg


Top of piston
sRZsCf8.jpg


Side of piston
YaPxit8.jpg


Top and side to show texture
LwBgYlE.jpg


Both tops
AGEW2kc.jpg


Full Kit
3e7TiZ5.jpg


For reference again, the kit goes for $80 and shipping is $20 for $100 total. We will see how it plays out! Going to drop these off at the shop tomorrow to be mated with cylinders.
 
Hey guys, engine still sits at the shop for inspection but I want to get moving on a few additional parts while I wait. I went back to the beginning of the thread and found this recommendation for a cam chain replacement. Just want to confirm that this will fit a 1976 model as the part for that model year via this site says it's now obsolete meaning I'll need to find a different one.

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-94500-02106-00.html

Secondly, I hear it's good practice to replace the cam chain adjuster while in here, any links to a quality replacement part for that unit as well? Or suggestions on what else could be worth replacing while I've got it open?

Don't want to open it twice if I can avoid, thanks!
 
That's the correct chain. It is for all the "447" 650 motors which began production with the '74 model. What you're probably seeing listed as "obsolete" is the original D.I.D. brand chain that was commonly used. This one you linked to is a Tsubaki brand which many of us consider the better (stronger) choice. The one I ordered last year was split and included a master link. If it doesn't come that way now, you can always get a master link from Mike's.

The rear cam chain adjuster is usually OK and doesn't need to be replaced. What does usually need changing is the front guide. That part is a known failure item. Even though it costs more, many of us prefer to buy the genuine Yamaha one. There have been reports of poor quality on the repros from Mike's. The way I look at it is $35 more is a small price to pay for something that will last you probably the rest of your life.
 
That link shows a continuous chain? You will probably want a split chain with a master link. In conjunction with the new chain you will want a front cam chain guide.
I would think the tension er/adjuster part would be alright. It might have been suggested to change to the newer type with a lock nut? I dunno I'm too lazy to re-read the whole thread.
3M at 650central can hook you up with the new chain or you might try your local dealer only ask for a quote on a cam chain and link from the '83 SK.
Yamaha says they are still available. I'd order the guide from Yamaha also instead of Mikes.

Or yeah what 5twins said
 
Last edited:
5twins said:
That's the correct chain. It is for all the "447" 650 motors which began production with the '74 model. What you're probably seeing listed as "obsolete" is the original D.I.D. brand chain that was commonly used. This one you linked to is a Tsubaki brand which many of us consider the better (stronger) choice. The one I ordered last year was split and included a master link. If it doesn't come that way now, you can always get a master link from Mike's.

The rear cam chain adjuster is usually OK and doesn't need to be replaced. What does usually need changing is the front guide. That part is a known failure item. Even though it costs more, many of us prefer to buy the genuine Yamaha one. There have been reports of poor quality on the repros from Mike's. The way I look at it is $35 more is a small price to pay for something that will last you probably the rest of your life.
Click to expand...

Good to know! If you've got a link to this piece I'll order today as the engine is now ready for reassembly.

Also, as mentioned earlier in the thread I'll be running the common PMA Pamco capacitor setup. In scouting these parts, I realized that the pamco has about a hundred different variations with little discernible difference between them. There is also the mechanical advance vs. e-advance discussion. The one I've linked below is labeled as Pete's personal choice, the only caveat being that it doesn't include some of the advance parts which are absent on the 80-84 model years. Being that mine is a 76 I don't see this as a big issue and the price seems right as well.

https://www.mikesxs.net/parts/yamaha-xs650-pamco-ultimate-high-output-ignition-system-73-84

Does anyone have a recommendation on which unit would be easiest to setup? I've never installed one of these before, and so long as it allows for batteryless operation I've got no need to spend extra money on high performance versions since the rest of the bike is stock.

Appreciate any advice you guys can offer, looking to order these parts this week so I can get this engine fired with a week or two.
 
Front cam chain guide .....

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-256-12231-01-00.html

Personally, I like the very basic Pamco, just the ignition unit itself, and then I add my own aftermarket brand name coil like an Andrews or Accell. We can use Harley coils and they're a dime a dozen on eBay. This is what I have .....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Andrews-Hig...ash=item46471fb57b:g:XbUAAOSwGotWjBi-&vxp=mtr

You can also get them new but it would cost 2 to 3 times more. Still, it's not going to be more than that Pamco kit with the China coil. I do buy Chinese stuff, but only if it's way, way cheaper than the brand name item it's copying. In this case, it's not.
 

Similar threads

Hamon2
Building an XS.. that isn’t a 650
Replies
13
Views
791
Hamon2
Hamon2
S
xs650b down under build thread
Replies
16
Views
442
spresser
S
V
Any suggestions for new bike build?
3 4 5
Replies
80
Views
3K
Shelby
Shelby
Mike G
  • Poll
Bridgeport (clone) build thread on XS650, Yay or Nay?
Replies
14
Views
432
Mike G
Mike G
NerdyNerd
82 XS650 Cafe Racer Build
2 3 4
Replies
62
Views
6K
Adamc
Adamc
Back
Top