XSsex50
XS650 Enthusiast
That’s the kind of advice that is needed.
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It's past time to start XS2 Resurrection
- Thread starter GLJ
- Start date
That’s the kind of advice that is needed.
Thanx for the tool tip, GLJ.
Just now ordered one...
Just now ordered one...
Yup I bought one of a similar kind months ago and it works just dandy.
Geedub
Geedub
Dropped off frame and other parts at powder coater. Had discussion about what needs to be plugged and taped. He seemed to understand. This isn't the first frame he's done. Now I have 1 to 2 weeks to keep working on the small stuff.
My plan is to get it back to a roller with most of the small stuff done before I start on the engine. Reason being is I plan on going completely through the engine. I've got to split the cases and see if they can be repaired. I didn't want too much stuff tore apart at one time. I'm not in a time rush. I've found doing projects it's best to have workable plan. It's all done one step at a time. Too much jumping around gets to be counter productive.
My plan is to get it back to a roller with most of the small stuff done before I start on the engine. Reason being is I plan on going completely through the engine. I've got to split the cases and see if they can be repaired. I didn't want too much stuff tore apart at one time. I'm not in a time rush. I've found doing projects it's best to have workable plan. It's all done one step at a time. Too much jumping around gets to be counter productive.
Waiting on frame and other parts to come back from powder coating. I did receive the thread repair kit. Got the fork legs repaired.
If have to agree with Geedub.
The drill bit and tap that came with the set worked very well. I also had ordered cutting fluid for aluminum, I'm sure that helped the drilling and tapping.
One thing I found of interest this week is that my ultrasonic cleaner will remove clear coat. I'm helping a friend rebuild a set of forks off of a 80s something Kawasaki. I had de-greased his parts in my cleaning tub. I then decided to run them through the ultrasonic for final cleaning. A while ago I noticed when I cleaned my speedo drive that the clear coat came off. His fork legs had clear coat. I got 95% off in the ultrasonic. It took 3 10 minuet trips through with a water rinse between and they came out pretty good. I'm using 50-50 Zep citrus at 50 C. It did not take off the decals. I'll let him do that.
If have to agree with Geedub.
The drill bit and tap that came with the set worked very well. I also had ordered cutting fluid for aluminum, I'm sure that helped the drilling and tapping.
One thing I found of interest this week is that my ultrasonic cleaner will remove clear coat. I'm helping a friend rebuild a set of forks off of a 80s something Kawasaki. I had de-greased his parts in my cleaning tub. I then decided to run them through the ultrasonic for final cleaning. A while ago I noticed when I cleaned my speedo drive that the clear coat came off. His fork legs had clear coat. I got 95% off in the ultrasonic. It took 3 10 minuet trips through with a water rinse between and they came out pretty good. I'm using 50-50 Zep citrus at 50 C. It did not take off the decals. I'll let him do that.
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You’ve been busy!
1. I sure do like that thread repair kit. How bad is the damage you have to fix on your forks?
2. Man, you must have an industrial sized ultrasonic cleaner. I’d never be able to fit fork legs in my tiny little Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner, just carb parts and small hardware. I had a similar experience with clear coat coming off of valve inspection covers in my ultrasonic cleaner. With a simple green and water mix.
Looking foward to seeing your frame!
1. I sure do like that thread repair kit. How bad is the damage you have to fix on your forks?
2. Man, you must have an industrial sized ultrasonic cleaner. I’d never be able to fit fork legs in my tiny little Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner, just carb parts and small hardware. I had a similar experience with clear coat coming off of valve inspection covers in my ultrasonic cleaner. With a simple green and water mix.
Looking foward to seeing your frame!
Each fork leg had a broken M8 bolt that held the fender on. Had to drill out the old bolt and then fix the threads.
It's not industrial size. I think 16 liter. I wanted it to do carbs in. But I knew I only had so many carbs to do. I got to thinking the bigger I got the more useful it would be. And there is economy of scale. I now wish I had got the 20 liter.
When is that bears playoff game this weekend?
Their season lasted longer than the Packers.When is that bears playoff game this weekend?
Picked up frame and other parts from powder coater this afternoon.Never had anything powder coated before, it's shiny and black.
Has paint in all the right places and none where you don't want it. All the exposed threads and threaded holes are clean. I'm sure it looks better than if I had painted it myself. I thought the price was reasonable. Frame, swingarm, battery box, lower motor mounts, upper and lower trees he did for $290. He does something I was not aware of that was part of the process. After sandblasting everything gets baked in the oven to get any chemicals to gas out of the metal. I happened to stop by last week to see how things were going. He had just taken the frame out of the oven for the lack of a better term prep bake. He showed me 4 places you see what looked like liquid stains. He said that was where chemicals had come to the surface. Those areas got re-blasted.
Has paint in all the right places and none where you don't want it. All the exposed threads and threaded holes are clean. I'm sure it looks better than if I had painted it myself. I thought the price was reasonable. Frame, swingarm, battery box, lower motor mounts, upper and lower trees he did for $290. He does something I was not aware of that was part of the process. After sandblasting everything gets baked in the oven to get any chemicals to gas out of the metal. I happened to stop by last week to see how things were going. He had just taken the frame out of the oven for the lack of a better term prep bake. He showed me 4 places you see what looked like liquid stains. He said that was where chemicals had come to the surface. Those areas got re-blasted.
Wow! New frame! Looks great, can’t wait to see it go back together! 
Wow - very snazzy GLJ!
Pete
Pete
Time to start putting things back together. Starting with the triple trees. Read quit a few threads on installing the All Balls taper bearings. One thing I noticed was several threads said the XS2 did not have a lower seal and the All Balls seal won't work. Does anybody know why it won't work? I put the seal on the bearing and it doesn't interfere with the bearing. I can't see the little bit of extra height hurting. Did I read the threads wrong?
Check with the mailman? He's right about there on his build.
Waiting with bated breath.
I did use the All Balls seals on the lower bearing, no problem. I did not put a seal on the top bearing , because there is a metal cup that fits down over the bearing .
What took you so long Bob?
Oh that's right, you develop your own film.
Oh that's right, you develop your own film.
I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work. It does a much better job holding the grease in than the rubber ring that was stock on the later models. The top seal can be left out if you like. It really doesn't do anything. The bottom one is important because gravity will eventually work the grease down and out of the bearing, then out the bottom of the neck, making a mess. While gravity may do the same to the top bearing, that grease will just go down into the neck, not come out around the top.
Thank you very much!!
