RadMax
XS650 Addict
Now here’s what they sent me:
F*** YOU, I WIN!!!!!
Can you do me a favor (if you still have it out) and measure that piston for me?
Wait..What? Did I ever suggestApparently I failed to read the “fine print” on Mike’s XS,
70 XS1Thanks guys!
My next question: The “Standard” ‘77 front master I bought, does anyone know what submodel it’s from? It’s from a single front disc setup like my ‘80 Special, bolts right up, same line, fitting, taillight switch...
I looked on the Galfer site, and they don’t make a braided line kit for the Special, but now that I put a superbike bar on my Special, the stock front brake line is a good bit too long, and it looks like Galfer has a kit for everything but the Special: XS650D, XS650E, XS650F...
I’d prefer “a bit too long” to “a bit too short”.
What size is the O Ring and where can I get one, I ordered one from McMaster-Carr but it is slightly too big and the reservoir won't push in.This will cover the procedure for rebuilding the front brake master cylinder (m/c).
All 3 types will be covered.
There are 3 stock types of front brake master cylinders on the XS650.
The original Round Cover:
insert round assembled here
The "Standard", which has no angle, straight body:
View attachment 7183
And the "Special", which has an angled body to "clear" the Buckhorn handlebars:
View attachment 7184
The inside of the reservoir on all 3 types are also different:
Round Type:
The "Standard":
View attachment 7185
The "Special":
View attachment 7186
NOTE: Brake fluid is a dangerous substance. DO NOT let it come into contact with painted surfaces. Immediately clean up any spill and wash hands thoroughly. Keeping a "more than normal" clean area when working with brake parts is very important!
Makes sure you read this in it's entirety and thoroughly before beginning.
To begin, First drain the system using the bleeder nipple on the front brake caliper. Refer to the Bleeding Brakes How-To if you are unaware of the proper procedures to do this. Drain as much fluid out as possible to reduce spillage from the reservoir.
Using the center stand or leveling the bike is a good idea when doing any maintenance.
Open the top cover of the master cylinder after draining the fluid. Put the cover, diaphragm, and diaphragm bushing in a safe place for later inspection/cleaning.
View attachment 7187
View attachment 7188
You can use a rag to "sop" up the remaining fluid. Do not get this fluid on any painted surfaces.
Disconnect the brake line from the m/c. Remove the banjo bolt and 2 washers.
[insert picture]
Remove the 2 10mm bolts from the m/c clamp and remove the m/c from the machine.
View attachment 7189
NOTE:An above average cleaning area is needed for any types of brake repair.
Turn the reservoir 90 degrees to prepare for removal.
View attachment 7190
Using a thin instrument, CAREFULLY raise one corner of the reservoir from the m/c body. There is a large O-ring that the reservoir must be separated from.
View attachment 7191
Work your way around the reservoir to loosen and raise it.
View attachment 7192
Then you can "pop" the reservoir off of the m/c body.
View attachment 7193
You can now inspect the inside of the m/c body and large O-ring. Notice the hardened brake fluid and grime that has collected between the reservoir and m/c body.
View attachment 7194