1971 Build for Dad

[GLJ]

As 5T pointed out a early ignition switch does not work like your print is drawn.
In order to get parking lights without adding a diode you will need a original style headlite switch.
Does the headlite switch you are using have on/off switch for the head lights?
If so what is it off of.

 

[5twins]

One more thing - I'm not sure why your fuse panel has a ground connection, most don't. They are usually just power in and power out for each fuse or one power in like yours, connected to all the fuses, and separate power outs for each fuse. On a fuse panel, a fuse provides a break and protection for a power line passing through it. There's no ground connection involved there, and if you had one, there's be a short.

 

[Jim]

One more thing - I'm not sure why your fuse panel has a ground connection, most don't. They are usually just power in and power out for each fuse or one power in like yours, connected to all the fuses, and separate power outs for each fuse. On a fuse panel, a fuse provides a break and protection for a power line passing through it. There's no ground connection involved there, and if you had one, there's be a short.

Looks like that fuse box is designed to also work with non conductive composite structures. Not only does it supply (fused) power, it also provides the return path (gnd) all in one handy little package... I like it.

 

[Paul Sutton]

As requested and after some searching through the junk in my garage at 0 Celsius I found the silicon rectifier diodes I used, 1N5408:

These are actually 3A diodes, not 4A as I stated in this thread...
There is a 4A available as MUR460 which could also be used.

On the Virago there are 2 tail light bulbs of 5W each, as is the case with the XS Specials. Using Watts = Volts x Amps (10W = 12V x Amps) we see the current drawn is just less than 1A. I considered this too close for the 1N400X series of diode which are rated at 1A maximum.

Thank you.

 

[Jim]

I considered this too close for the 1N400X series of diode which are rated at 1A maximum.

LED lights maybe?

 

[Rhy650]

If the ignition switch is the original then it will be like the one I showed you, not like the one in your drawing.

Well... there goes that. At least it was educational! I am going to take some time and audit all of my switches to make sure the diagram is is reflective of the hardware, especially given the grab bag of parts I have.. Will be in touch soon.

 

[5twins]

Yes, parts get swapped around on these quite a bit. But there can be issues when it comes to electrical components if you don't know what you're doing or exactly how the parts you have operate. You should probably test the main switch you're going to use. See if there's continuity between the red and blue wires in the "On" position (shouldn't be if it's the original). Obviously, there will (should) be continuity between those two wires in the "Park" position. All 650 ignition switches had that.

 

[5twins]

I have a bunch of 6A10 diodes I picked up for a possible rotor mod outlined by 2M here (posts 10 and 11) .....

http://www.xs650.com/threads/alternator-rotor-inductive-kickback.42605/#post-427031

Overkill I'm sure, but they should work, right?

 

[Jim]

Overkill I'm sure, but they should work, right?

Yeah... they're rated at 6A. Way overkill but should work just fine.

 

[Paul Sutton]

The 6A10 will be fine. They have a very high voltage rating of 1000V so will not get damaged by spikes on the harness.

 

[650Skull]

I am certainly no expert on this, that has been well-established here! However, I don't think this will work due to the type of fuse box I am using. It is not capable of multiple "inline" fused circuits. Power goes in and is distributed through a gang, with each outgoing connection being fused. I believe that setup would also subject the main 20A fuse to a short in the taillight/gauge, which we are trying to avoid. The real problem is how the headlight switch and ignition are both supplying power to the blue wire.]

I was asking a general question to all.

Also the point in my diagram was the ignition wire feed.........red wire from Battery to ignition be kept on a separate circuit, (could bypass your fuse box because it cant be done in your box), and have its own fuse. This eliminates the other problems and having to add diodes

 

[Rhy650]

I was asking a general question to all.

Also the point in my diagram was the ignition wire feed.........red wire from Battery to ignition be kept on a separate circuit, (could bypass your fuse box because it cant be done in your box), and have its own fuse. This eliminates the other problems and having to add diodes

I see now. My apologies if that came off as offensive, it was certainly not my intent.

 

[5twins]

Just because the main red power feed wire from the battery to the ignition switch has it's own fuse, I don't think that's going to eliminate the feedback problem. It has nothing to do with that main red wire. The feedback happens through the headlight on/off switch if it's switched on while the bike is in "Park", sending power back to the fuse box. Since all the secondary fuses branch off of the same power feed wire, pumping current into one will spread it to all the others. Since the blue tail light wire coming out of the on/off switch connects into the blue wire coming out of the ignition switch and running to the tail light, giving it power from the ignition switch (Park position) will feed that power back to the headlight on/off switch as well. We need to stop that and that's where the diode comes in. It's like a one way valve, allowing power to flow in one direction but not the other. You place it on the blue wire coming out of the headlight on/off switch so that it allows power to flow out but not back into the switch. Feedback problem solved.

 

[650Skull]

All good, This will be a great diagram when it is finished. best way to learn, I know i am. When the XS2 diagram was built it was a real brain teaser

 

[650Skull]

Just because the main red power feed wire from the battery to the ignition switch has it's own fuse, I don't think that's going to eliminate the feedback problem. It has nothing to do with that main red wire. The feedback happens through the headlight on/off switch if it's switched on while the bike is in "Park", sending power back to the fuse box. Since all the secondary fuses branch off of the same power feed wire, pumping current into one will spread it to all the others. Since the blue tail light wire coming out of the on/off switch connects into the blue wire coming out of the ignition switch and running to the tail light, giving it power from the ignition switch (Park position) will feed that power back to the headlight on/off switch as well. We need to stop that and that's where the diode comes in. It's like a one way valve, allowing power to flow in one direction but not the other. You place it on the blue wire coming out of the headlight on/off switch so that it allows power to flow out but not back into the switch. Feedback problem solved.

to eliminate the diode, Blue would have to be on a separate fuse circuit as well then. Cant because of the type of box used.......

 

[5twins]

No, that wouldn't help either. The problem is two different sources (ignition switch and headlight on/off switch) feeding power to the same destination, the tail light. Even if both were on separate fused lines, power into the light on one would just feed back through the other at the light.

 

[Jim]

Has anyone ohm'd an early switch so we know definitively how it's wired?

 

[Paul Sutton]

Thank you for that 5twins. I spent ages trying to write a good explanation but the words just would not flow so gave up...

 

[GLJ]

He's using a early ignition switch. If he used a early left bar switch no problem.

Has anyone ohm'd an early switch so we know definitively how it's wired?

Yes. Blue and red/yellow only have continuity when head light switch is on.

 

[5twins]

Well, what's really going to cause his feedback issue is the use of multiple fuses. If he only had one fuse like the original bike there would be no feedback issue.