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Ok, can you verify then that you have continuity (0 Ohms resistance) from R/W at one of the coils to R/W at the fusebox? If good continuity there, then also check for continuity on R/W at fuse box to brown at key switch
Ok, can you verify then that you have continuity (0 Ohms resistance) from R/W at one of the coils to R/W at the fusebox? If good continuity there, then also check for continuity on R/W at fuse box to brown at key switch
I checked the r/w from coil to fuse box and i got nothing so i started digging into the harness and found that some of the coil wires doesnt even go back to the fuse box??
Also what are these prongs for on the back of the ignition switch?
Someone's got red yellow soldered to red white. that's not right.
one side of coil goes to hot the other to the ignition timing box TCI here?
Prongs just get bent over the wire bundle to hold it in place.
I checked the r/w from coil to fuse box and i got nothing so i started digging into the harness and found that one of the coil wires doesnt even go back to the fuse box??
Also what are these prongs for on the back of the ignition switch?
Should I redo this harness just for ignition and charging?? i dont need lights or signal lights cause i have special plans for the bike lol. im not the most experienced with wiring harnesses so this is pretty confusing for me
Do you guys think it will be to hard to save it the way it is now?
Should I redo this harness just for ignition and charging?? i dont need lights or signal lights cause i have special plans for the bike lol. im not the most experienced with wiring harnesses so this is pretty confusing for me
Do you guys think it will be to hard to save it the way it is now?
There are open solder joints that needs covering of some sort. ASAP
There are short fuses where it should be long ones.
But it does not look so bad in my view
Colors on wires might not be right but that is common few have a full set at home and just grab something and use.
So using a meter or so is needed.
Depending on plans / budget / skills but I would get it running with what you have there and then reevaluate.
There can be a need for other expensive things Alternator TCI Unknown ???
There are open solder joints that needs covering of some sort. ASAP
There are short fuses where it should be long ones.
But it does not look so bad in my view
Colors on wires might not be right but that is common few have a full set at home and just grab something and use.
So using a meter or so is needed.
Depending on plans / budget / skills but I would get it running with what you have there and then reevaluate.
There can be a need for other expensive things Alternator TCI Unknown ???
I just replaced the TCI and pickup coil assembly and rotor, both were said to be working when sold so i have my doubts on it being those (hopefully) but the coil wires is what has me confused, how come theres 4 wires going into 1 wire?
I just replaced the TCI and pickup coil assembly and rotor, both were said to be working when sold so i have my doubts on it being those (hopefully) but the coil wires is what has me confused, how come theres 4 wires going into 1 wire?
That is the reading of Schematic and ..wiring
If you look at the picture in post # 14
The wire R/W goes into the Coils On the Schematic there is a l vertical line separating them
But if One don't take the Resistance in the wire into account which often can be done on Bikes.
AS long as thee is no l Component in series ( Vertical line ) it has the same Voltage
The R/W wires going to the right have the same Voltage and can be Connected.
It can be confusing at times to spot it