Just another first build.

Waiting on two big orders from Mikes and an order from the Yamaha dealership to show up. In the mean time I've just been cleaning all the hardware, scraping gaskets, etc. so when everything shows up I can start assembling the engine.

I mentioned earlier in this thread how I was upset with the fabricator. I finally decided to dust off the TIG welder that hasn't been used in years and start learning. Never going to unless I start making moves right? Just been reading as much info as I can about it and practicing the past couple nights after work on some scrap pieces of steel. Any tips for a beginner or much appreciated.

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They say that when you have the wire speed set correctly and the Amperage correct for the penetration that you need then you listen for a sound like sizzling bacon and you should get a good weld .

Your best bet is to get an experienced welder to show you how to set everything up for different thicknesses of metal and different types of weld ie plug overlap butt seam spot thin metal etc
 
Best of luck my friend. I considered picking up one and learning and doing all my welds, but I went with having the guy that's fabricating my frame do the rest of the welds as well.
 
Thanks for the advice guys!

First wave of parts showed up (this is from the Yamaha dealership). I Have everything to assemble the clutch besides the upgraded needle washer/plate. It's with one of the two orders from Mikes XS next coming next week.

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Ginger from New Church Moto sent me this picture of the seat after forming. I'm happy with it. I wanted a slight curve upwards in the rear, but nothing too drastic. Input would be appreciated :) She will be wrapping it in brown distressed leather (unless I change my mind again) with a tuck in roll pattern.

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And this was one of my "better" welds today. On the TIG welder using a filler rod. I'm having a lot of fun with this. There is still tons to improve on, but I think I'm heading in the right direction. It's frustrating at times, but I know practice makes perfect. I can't wait until I'm good enough to start welding my own mounts on frames down the road! :bike:

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That's all for now until the rest of the parts show up. Then I can start moving forward again :thumbsup: Have a great weekend everyone!
 
Your tig weld looks good, but I think is a tad on the hot side. With that much heat, you will get some warping on thinner gauge parts. It could just be that you are moving very slowly as well, which is good as you learn, but I would turn your amperage down a bit until you get faster...
 
Went into the shop today. I realized since I had the caliper rebuild kit, new brake pads, and caliper back from powder coating I could assemble it. It was a little bit of a chore, I forgot to have them mask off the little areas where the shims fit onto, so I had to remove some of the powder coat to get them to fit on there correctly.

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Grinded off the link on the old cam chain, zip tied the new chain to the old chain and pulled it through. I have not riveted it yet for 2 reasons 1). No riveter at the moment 2.) Still need to install the cam chain guide.

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Wrapped up the day scraping remaining gaskets, cleaning bolts, and some more weld practice :)

Took solidrummer's info and did my best to apply it today. Moved a little quicker, little less heat. 120 amps I believe.

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Yo Rd51, I'm very impressed with all you've done so far. I recently bought a rolling basket case and I hope I get mine half as nice as yours is shaping up to be. My question is what are you doing with the old parts you are accumulating? I am looking for a seat and rear shocks to name a couple of items. Just curious. Thanks for the fun posts. I can't wait to see what's next, Captain Fun out.
 
nice welding ...better than mine for sure but I would make a couple of observations.

Your butt joint is opening up as you seam weld due to the heat . Normal way to do a continuous seam weld on a butt joint to prevent the gap opening up is to spot weld every 2" or so then infill with a seam between the spot welds.(If the metal is really thin like a gas tank etc then you'll need to use 20-30Amps at the most and use continuous spot welds to create a seam, due to the excessive heat generated by a continuous weld )

The other thing you need to think about if you intend to weld your frame is practising a 'fillet' weld between butted pipes at oblique angles, as access to the joint is restricted .

Butt joint seam welding on two pieces of bright steel is not going to give you much experience for frame tube welding where you'll need better penetration .
Little tip for better penetration, grind/file the edges to a 45 deg angle for half the depth of the weld .:thumbsup:
 
Yo Rd51, I'm very impressed with all you've done so far. I recently bought a rolling basket case and I hope I get mine half as nice as yours is shaping up to be. My question is what are you doing with the old parts you are accumulating? I am looking for a seat and rear shocks to name a couple of items. Just curious. Thanks for the fun posts. I can't wait to see what's next, Captain Fun out.

PM sent :thumbsup:
 
nice welding ...better than mine for sure but I would make a couple of observations.

Your butt joint is opening up as you seam weld due to the heat . Normal way to do a continuous seam weld on a butt joint to prevent the gap opening up is to spot weld every 2" or so then infill with a seam between the spot welds.(If the metal is really thin like a gas tank etc then you'll need to use 20-30Amps at the most and use continuous spot welds to create a seam, due to the excessive heat generated by a continuous weld )

The other thing you need to think about if you intend to weld your frame is practising a 'fillet' weld between butted pipes at oblique angles, as access to the joint is restricted .

Butt joint seam welding on two pieces of bright steel is not going to give you much experience for frame tube welding where you'll need better penetration .
Little tip for better penetration, grind/file the edges to a 45 deg angle for half the depth of the weld .:thumbsup:

Peanut,

Thank you for all the information. I do realize the welds I am practicing now will provide little help to welding frames, and the welds I have done thus far need a lot of work, because I do notice that I'm burning through the plates when I get to the end.

There's still SO many things I'm trying to get used to, all the basics, close arc length, arc angle, feeding wire, how much heat, different points for tungstens, etc.

After I feel like I have those fundamentals down I will definitely use your helpful tips and advice :)
 
hey I'm probably trying to 'teach my GrandMother to suck eggs' lol:D

Your welding is definitely neater than mine. :laugh:
 
Pulled out the rear cam chain tensioner today. Is this right? 2 different sets of screws?

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Got my gas tank back! :) But, sadly I will have to see it go away again for a few weeks. Had it painted a nice metallic grey color (underneath is the color it will be) and painted clear. Clear coat was sanded down, and I am taking it to Troy Lee Designs to have them paint my racing number since I was 12 years old, in a flat black finish.

The same font as they use on my Jersey.

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Got another email from Ginger today, saying the brown leather I requested she no longer has or can get :( She sent me a picture of this seat that is the closest brown she has to what I wanted. Brown "distressed". Thoughts?

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Second wave of parts from Mikes :D Gasket kit, oil seals, brass washers, 1st oversize piston and rings, and a second front cam chain guide :doh: I had already got one from the Yamaha dealership and didn't realize it when I placed the order for Mikes

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One more wave of parts and the engine can start going back together!
 
tank is going to look great! its a pity more owners don't get a bit creative with their tanks and covers and frame colour.

yes their are two different types of fixing screws on your rear camchain plate. Two have a plain shank which fit into the elongated slots and allow for some repositioning of the fixing plate to line the guide up with your chain :thumbsup:

ps I think the seat will look fab with the paint you've chosen. it probably looks a little darker in that poor quality photo than it actually is.
You can use leather dyes and burnishing etc to create a distressed look yourself.

Is that the seat type you are going with ?
 
tank is going to look great! its a pity more owners don't get a bit creative with their tanks and covers and frame colour.

yes their are two different types of fixing screws on your rear camchain plate. Two have a plain shank which fit into the elongated slots and allow for some repositioning of the fixing plate to line the guide up with your chain :thumbsup:

ps I think the seat will look fab with the paint you've chosen. it probably looks a little darker in that poor quality photo than it actually is.
You can use leather dyes and burnishing etc to create a distressed look yourself.

Is that the seat type you are going with ?

Thanks for the feedback and clarification! :)
 
tank is going to look great! its a pity more owners don't get a bit creative with their tanks and covers and frame colour.

yes their are two different types of fixing screws on your rear camchain plate. Two have a plain shank which fit into the elongated slots and allow for some repositioning of the fixing plate to line the guide up with your chain :thumbsup:

ps I think the seat will look fab with the paint you've chosen. it probably looks a little darker in that poor quality photo than it actually is.
You can use leather dyes and burnishing etc to create a distressed look yourself.

Is that the seat type you are going with ?

P.S. The seat I'm going with I posted at the top of this page
 
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