Calibrated Fingers

RT: Love your Job buddy ! not many people can do that... get on the net and be at work too ! LOL
hahaha !
Bob......
 
Heavy stuff, Dude.

Suppose you had your choice of 3 different shops to wrench on your bike.
1- A busy shop, sounds of tools clanking, compressors and power tools.
2- A rad shop with heavy metal, acid rock at full blast.
3- A shop staffed by fully cranked meth heads.

I take torque settings as part of an overall maintenance philosophy, subject to interpretation. The published values are for all things in new to good factory OEM serviceable condition. Adjustments based on education and experience if you're outside that realm. Especially in emergency situations.

Also, not all published torque values came out of the engineering department, and were written by a tech writer that may have hit the wrong key.

A comment on tire pressure gauges. I compared my air gauges a few years ago. The top gauges are all within 2psi, the middle three are about 5psi off, the bottom one failed. Which ones are correct? Are yours?
View attachment 106425
2M: Please don't misunderstand me to be an Absolutist, as I am far from that. Like you, I don't trust the measurement values that manufacturers provide to me, so I do my own calibrations. E.g. my many tire gauges all have + or - correction values written on them. And I'm perfectly comfortable pushing that axle nut two more degrees in order to get the pin in place. And Pirsig, who was a technological Master who I greatly respect, trashed service manuals for about three chapters, as I recall. He actually wrote them for many years, and saw through their Divine status the publishers wanted to imbue to them. "Carefully" reading them meant reading them discerningly.

But I similarly question those who invest blind faith in their human abilities to discern mechanical subtleties; our cognitive abilities to involve multiple variables at once in our calculations is one thing (its pretty good), but human abilities to discern things like tension in an object are always questionable, IMHO. Thus, I hold doubt regarding firm claims of having some sort of advanced, Guru-level "feel." As I said on Saturday at 10:15am;

"Like most mechanics who have multiple decades of experience with wrenching , I have developed good confidence in my "feel" for torque, bolstered by my knowledge of metallurgy, metal fatigue, the influence of lubricants, and direct experience with "the limits" (actually snapping off bolts).
However, I never let myself lose track of the fact that a mechanic's "feel" is very much a subjective phenomenon. We are not robots, although when we are wrenching it is convenient to imagine that we are. Subjective means existing in the mind;
> Belonging to the thinking subject rather than to the object of thought.
> Relating to properties or specific conditions of the mind as distinguished from direct experience.
> Pertaining to characteristics of an individual; personal, emotional, influenced by attitude.

Therefore, I have 4 torque wrenches of various types and application ranges."

And I do my best to remain humble.
 
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As opposed to my riding, (it isn't the destination it is the ride) my wrenching is it is not how you get there but does it work.
RG's methods work for RG, mine work for me and hopefully yours work for you. Because you do or don't use a specific tool or method I don't wish mechanical failure for you(you is an all-inclusive generalization for riders here).
 
:agree:
Yes anti seize on lug nuts is a good thing. I also use anti seize on the hub wheel interface. My car wheels come off each summer for a tire rotation and brake wear check. Of course the wheel lugs get torqued to 80 ft-lbs.
As a side note...........................I've never had a wheel fall off the car:laugh2:
 
I use anti seize on lug nuts!
I even smear a light coat of anti seize on the hub/wheel interface. If you aren't in the rust belt doing your own twice a year wheel changes you won't get this.
Same here, all of the above, and more. I do a thorough brake maintenance in the spring and fall, dismantling the calipers, cleaning the SS hardware, de-rusting contact surfaces,, and lubing the caliper sliders. Unfortunately, the 2012 Altima demands this.
 
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I switch over to real winter tires in November.

321_Snowtrakker_350pGS.jpg
 
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Same here, all of the above, and more. I do a thorough brake maintenance in the spring and fall, dismantling the calipers, cleaning the SS hardware, de-rusting contact surfaces,, and lubing the caliper sliders. Unfortunately, the 2012 Altima demands this.
I drive a 2005 Camry. The only brake maintenance I've done is replace the brake pads.

Oh yes, I did a brake fluid flush around the 9 or 10 year time frame.
 
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The (now departed) 05 Prius and the 04 sprinter like a round of caliper piston extension, retraction now and then to reduce "sticking" I'll swipe a q-tip with some brake fluid on it under the dust seal and around the piston. Don't get me started on parking brakes...............
 
I switch over to real winter tires in November.

View attachment 106430
Yeah, you are in a bad snow belt there. You really need those full winter tires. Here in Calgary, where we are in the lea of the mountains, we don't get much snow, although large dumps are possible. I use the Nokian WRG2 tires that are winter rated, and I run them all year round. They are amazing tires for our winter conditions, and I feel very safe with them. As a matter of fact, I need to replace them, and will be buying the Nokian WRG3 next week.
 
Yeah, you are in a bad snow belt there. You really need those full winter tires. Here in Calgary, where we are in the lea of the mountains, we don't get much snow, although large dumps are possible. I use the Nokian WRG2 tires that are winter rated, and I run them all year round. They are amazing tires for our winter conditions, and I feel very safe with them. As a matter of fact, I need to replace them, and will be buying the Nokian WRG3 next week.
We do get a bit of snow, here.
SNOW.2012 002.jpg

The Altima has its detraction with the brake maintenance, but more than counterbalances with items such as the CVT transmission (once they tackled its early glitches) . Wonderful simplicity, not unlike a snowmobile transmission.
cvt.jpg
I had the tranny fluid analyzed for particulate breakdown at 75,000 miles, and the number came to 865. Nissan indicates changing the fluid when it gets to about 22,500. Since the fluid breaks down in a linear manner, I won't be due for a fluid change until maybe .......oh, heck, why even do the math ? :laugh2:
 
The product is two versions of a GM transmission /reverse clutch component for a new tranny. This is new to Vancouver WA . I am here now learning plenty as robots are also new to me.. I took this job with a "Go big or go home" attitude trying to achieve personal gain. Its a little tough for me lol.
 
2M: Please don't misunderstand me to be an Absolutist, as I am far from that. Like you, I don't trust the measurement values that manufacturers provide to me, so I do my own calibrations. E.g. my many tire gauges all have + or - correction values written on them...

Haha, no, of course not. But, this is a *fun* thread, challenges the preconception and thinking. How 'bout this:

At home, you've aired-up a steel tank to 30 psi, confirmed with your tire gauge. Travel to Denver, and take another reading. What will it show?
 
Haha, no, of course not. But, this is a *fun* thread, challenges the preconception and thinking. How 'bout this:

At home, you've aired-up a steel tank to 30 psi, confirmed with your tire gauge. Travel to Denver, and take another reading. What will it show?
Although the altitude has increased 5 to 6 K feet, it will still read 30, yes?
 
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