crankcase

Hi all, I purchased my XS650 without any bolts for the Alternator/Left Crankcase Cover and haven't been able to find them on the threads. Does anybody know the size/dimensions of the 6 bolts or if there is a kit online where I could buy them? Thanks! Matthew

I don't have an RPM gauge and don't plan on using one. The PO removed the cable complete and put some weird copper plumbing screw in place of the tach drive retention bolt. I know it is smart to keep the hole for testing etc, but I still don't plan on using it. Question: Can I remove the gear...

Hello all, thanks for any help on this one! I have been looking up and down, even searching with the OEM part number, 93320-31501-00. Unfortunately these seem hard to source. Might anyone have a good recommendation for a replacement needle bearing for the shift drum?

So I was replacing my tach drive gasket and O-ring and everything went smooth. The last bolt I put on was #5 on the diagram below. Anyway the bolt shaft snapped off from the head so I bought a new one was went to back it out with a drill (something I've had to do dozens of times). Long story...

Hey guys, looking for some advice on the engine case. I finally disassembled everything, ready to send off parts to be blasted when I saw two holes that clearly weren't made by a machine. They seem to go into a passage that is contained and already connected to the rest of the engine, meaning...

I've painted my upper crankcase with VHT Very High Temp Primer (VHT SP100). The can says to heat up to 250F for 30, then 400F for 30, then 600F (like my oven will go that damn high) for 30. This Primer is really for headers, not engine blocks & heads. There is a caution that states not to...

Cases split today - I may post a "here's how I did it" video later (See Post #6 of this Thread). What's happened to the 2 studs (front ones) that are nasty looking? Are these easy to replace and will I be able to find replacements? What's the proper tool to remove the 3 circlips (#16 in...

I'm slowly re-assembling my top-side. While I've still got the engine out of my bike, is there a need to re-torque bolts, nuts on the crankcase or bottom end? Or just leave them alone since I've not disturbed the lower case? Thanks.

In the picture below, you'll see three nibs protruding from my upper crankcase, just below the cylinders; two below the left cylinder (photo right), and one on the other side. The next photo shows the two left ones more closely. I thought they might be casting plugs, or sealed oil-passage drill...

Since i bought my bike, First gear sounds like it's missing a tooth. (It reminds me of a clangy bell they put on a fork lift wheel at a summer job in high school). So I've been attempting at splitting the crank cases, so i could investigate the gear issue, both the Haynes, Clymer, and Yamaha...