1980 Rootbeer Bobber

what's the best way to remove the float seat? rebuild kits come with new ones, so i'm going to install these and new floats. also need to remove the pilot jet, but have to modify a screwdriver to fit in the recess better...
 
I,ve decided to keep my '80 XS and will be ordering parts in November. I will enjoy reading your build thread.
You will enjoy getting out of town in Dec-Feb on your bike. Cant do that a mile high.
 
haha, you obviously don't know me! i used to ride on my spirit year round, as long as the roads were dry and clear. been out at night before in the low single digits, had a BLAST! took awhile to get feeling back in my hands, but it was still fun!
 
I lived in the Montana rockies for 18 years and rode year round too. Just much more often and way more comfortable down here (without my snowmobile suit). If my old body could take it, I would move back in a minute.
 
BTW, your wheels, brakes and ignition all say 1980 but the color of the tank? is it custom? do the side covers match?
My '80 is the Yamaha "ruby red", terrible color and the side covers are faded... even worse of a color.
 
i have no clue. i'd have to pull the VIN to check all that stuff. i know the side covers match in shape, but color does not. otherwise, the bike hasn't really been touched to my knowledge. is that not a factory color?
 
got the '75 tank in saturday (MAN that was fast shipping!!). other than one small dent it's in good shape inside and out! dual petcocks should make fuel line routing a bit easier and allow for twin filters.


also decided to pull the motor and do a good inspection. this will allow for better piece of mind and a good chance to clean up the frame and hopefully re-do the wiring harness. will install a PMA and Pamco when i'm at it. checked compression, 150 on the left cylinder, 120 on the right. don't know why the difference, but i'd rather be safe than sorry. hopefully i don't open up a can of worms! bike has 16600 on the odometer, but no clue how long it's been sitting, judging from the carbs.

any other advice on what to do since the motor will be out? again, going for reliability and a little bit of power, but still on a budget. planning on cleaning up the cylinder head runners and combustion chambers; mainly just casting defects and that, no major porting. hopefully pistons and cylinders are in good shape so a good hone and ring job will be all that's necessary. will most likely address oil cooling while i'm at it as well. don't know if i'll go with an external or Mikes adapter for the right side case.

finally, anyone have any good lists of "must-replace" items and where a good supplier is for them for an engine overhaul like this??
 
You may want to research the fifth gear upgrade. Maybe a re-phase...personally I like the sound of the motor as stock...but others differ. I don't consider these must do's...but some do.
 
no re-phase now, trying to keep it on a budget. already pricing thing sout still puts me way farther than i want to be! carbs alone are going to be $210! granted that's with EVERYTHING new inside and a new throttle cable, fuel filters, 3 sets of main jets, etc.

i'll have to inspect the trans when i get the cases split to see about dog quality. sure wish i had some extra cash now! new boss is TOO SLOW filling out expense reports!!
 
forgot to upload: '75 tank on there, looks a lot better shape-wise!!
 

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so ya..... charging system looks to be KAPUT! entire stator was covered by what looks to be dried up battery acid, so methinks PMA is a MUST as it replaces all this (right??)

right side engine cover looks good, so i might run the fiber optic cam in through the oil fill port and see what the internals look like w/o cracking the cases. hard decision!!!

so, any thoughts as to what's going on here??? should i pull the motor out and do a good visual inspection for piece of mind??
 

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most likely caused from a battery tender being left on WAY too long with ignition switch on. charging system is fried, most likely TCI as well. looks like a hugh's PMA kit will be ordered "soon" along with a Pamco ultimate kit from Milkes.

also going to do a full re-wire on the bike, from scratch. relay the headlight and probably horn, eliminate starter circuit. woo!
 
Sounds like you are on track...don't do what I did and not realize you need a points ignition with the PMA kit....suffering from that tragedy right now =(
 
Hey man are you going to need a rotor tool for your PMA swap? if so i have the one that's been passed around the forums. Let me know and I'll send it over, but let me know fast some others are asking for it, but I figured get the local guys taken care of then ship her out.
 
ya man i could certainly use that!! i don't think i have one that will fit the stock rotor!! let me know
 
well just got thru spending a good chunk o change...

Pamco ultimate ignition system from Mikes
Hughs PMA and solid riser bushings
ALL new parts for the carbs
k&n airbox filters ($60 on amazon vs. $56 for stocks from Mikes)
oil filters and Mikes oil cooler kit
exhaust gaskets

wooooo! hopefully i can get it all worked out sometime soon...
 
Ok. Finally made some time last night, but just ended up cleaning the carbs some more since they're fully disassembled.

Apparently Mikes has some parts listed incorrectly as the bowl drain screws won't fit. additionally, one of the canadian needles is bent and trying to carefully get it straight again didn't work. oh well, at only $6.50, i can order another one.

now my question is: do i need to use the plastic needle spacer under the circlip on the canadian needles?? how does the cover plate go back on if i use the washer included with the needles?? (it's too big for the recess in the slide) i also ordered the canadian needle jets so i know about that.
 
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