2way toggle switch,replacing keys and kill switch

Karlos

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XS2 650...Ive replaced my keys and kill switch for a 2 way toggle everything nearly done but seems to have affected my battery recharge system! And the little solenoid from first coil has a second empty female! cant work out what it goes to! Any suggestions? please!
 
For safety the kill switch needs to be close to your handgrips, which allows for quick engine shutdown.

If you could post the wiring diagram you are using would be helpful.

Welcome to the forum.
 
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Thanks for your reply and the welcome! ive put the wiring diagram im using on my photo albums. I think ive a weak link in a ground or the full set of yellows . Do the yellow wires from lights etc meet with the safety single yellow that goes to safety relay from alternator (stator) and if ive turned the engine over with a break in them would it damage my stator rectifier etc? thanks,,,Karlos
 
I'm also running a two way switch. I crank the bike with no lights and just power to the coil, then immediately switch on power to the alternator rotor. I can then turn on the lights with the headlight switch. My wiring harness is nothing like the stock one now, but a weak battery doesn't scare me like it used to.

Don't trust the stock wires. Measure each wire's resistance. In my case I was losing a volt here and a volt there just from one side of a wire to the other.
 
Yeah mine was a mess binned about 15 leads already ,there where ten alone that would have gone to the stock dials I dumped when got bike 14years ago. Ive just kept lights, and indicators. ive replaced headlight put the light switch and starter button on that,and put a seperate live feed to the lights with fuse. done away with ignition key and kill switch,put a 2 way toggle near my ass under seat as a on off or kill switch with another fuse for that. now come Monday will have to untape alot of the tidy up because ive left a break in the yellow wires somewhere or a ground thus my battery aint being charged,should not have taped up till last! first time ive wired live and learn! ha ,darn!
 
The yellow from the alternator goes to the safety relay only. If your not using the safety relay then you cap off the yellow wire from the alternator. The other yellow wires hook the brakelight switches to the brake light. The brake light switchs get power from the brown wire.
 
Thanks for reply ,much apreciate! should be finished tomorrow! ive a new pic of it just posted in album. chopped seat,and rear mud,and sprayed! been 3weeks on it thank foook its over!
 
one thing you can do to help the ignition is to wire in a http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062477 30 amp relay to get full battery voltage to the coils, this mod eliminates running the power for the ignition circuit thru/with all the other lighting, horn, brake ect. couple of older threads on this but can't find them right now, basically turning the key on powers the relay, connecting the battery directly to the coils
 

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I have the diagram in my photos only difference is ive 2 feeds. one for lights etc other ignition break light ,indicators.Its been a real nightmare. my first rewire! I lost the recharge battery set.from brown to regulator through green to + brush alternator,due to many spliced and changed colored wires. if that makes sense! ive learnt more about the bike in 2weeks than the 16 years ive owned it! Karlo Liverpool
 
I have a relay to power the ignition. Any of the relays like tat will work. They use them to run hgigh draw thing like driving lights, horns sand such.
On mine power flows from the battery thru a 20 amp fuse to the key switch, from the switch to a fuse block, One fuse feeds power to the relay 30 connector. The 87 connector goes to the ignition.
Power from another fuse feeds the engine stop switch. When the engine stop switch is in the run position power flows to the relay 86 connection, 85 gets grounded. This turns the relay on and sends power to the ignition.
The stock engine stop switch is often a problem. Just a bit of dirt or corrosion can greatly reduce the power to the ignition. Even dirty or corroded the switch can carry enough power to turn the relay on. The relay contacts can carry a much higher load without corrosion or burning. The relay is sealed so it stays much cleaner.
The relay no matter how nasty the engine stop switch gets will deliver full power to the ignition.
From the battery thru the relay to the ignition is also a much more direct path for the power. Just a few feet of wire and less connections than the stock clear to the handle bars and back thru more wire and connections. As I recall about 5 or 6 less connections and less than half the wire.
Much less chance of dirty connections and the resulting loss of power.
 
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