30amp switch instead of keys?

[madeindetroit]

I would like to use switches instead of keys.

I am currently running a relay and not too excited about it when a failure is to occur in my electrical.

I would like one switch for my coil (kill switch) is a 20 amp enough?

Then I want one near the battery, do I need a 30 amp? I cant seem to find any good 30 amp switches. That A look good, B are sealed, and C are not larger then my engine.

 

[DogBunny]

I am not an electrical engineer, but I have a fair amount of experience using various toggle, micro, and other switches on both Sportsters and XS650s. I have used micro-switches rated as small as 5 amps for both kill switches and start buttons with no problems, but I don't really recommend going that low, and I think 10 amp rated switches are a lot safer.

Anyways, Radio Shack makes a fantastic full-size toggle switch (actually a paddle switch):
http://octopart.com/275-024-radioshack-24527443
My package lists it as 275-0024. What's fantastic is that it is rated for DC instead of AC, and it is rated 30 amps which is huge. Has built-in red LED which is goofy, but otherwise makes a great ignition switch if you are going key-less, or as a secondary, secret, hidden kill switch (nice to have a secret switch if you go key-less like I do). I don't know if it's exactly "sealed," but it looks rain-proof.
Radio shack has some other interesting DC rated switches in their electronics parts drawers.

Radio Shack also sells a fantastic two-position off/on micro-toggle, part # 275-0324
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062485
It is rated at 10 amps/125VAC, which is really high for a micro switch. Highest rated I have found by far.

I have put both of the above switches on a few bikes now, with no problems.

EDIT: I fixed the second link...

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

DogBunny's second switch part number is: 275-324, I like it. I use an older commercial type dpdt of the same type/style. On my `71, the 115 watt alternator means that the charging systen is an 8-amp system (for 14v), so I shouldn't expect total current draw to exceed 8 amps. Each pole on my switch is rated 10amp, soldered them parallel. The red safety cover is from a LearJet. Been running this switch for 20 years...

 

[grizld1]

The OE main fuse is 20A, in the 78 and forward multiple fuse systems the ignition fuse was either 5 or 10A, can't recall which offhand. What does that tell ya? For a kill switch (ignition on/off) 6A/12VDC is plenty.

 

[Dakota_Lew]

I have a 25 amp toggle switch (over kill on amp rating) i just picked it up at my local hardware store to replace my Key ignition on my gravel/dirt XS. It works great, no issues, its meant for a tractor but that's all I could get and it works just fine.

I also hid one on my Cafe XS as a hidden switch so my sons/daughters don't go for a joy ride with it. Also 25 amp.

I went with 25 amp, cause one its all that they had and it didn't really matter anyways since I have fuses and a redundant 20amp breaker that will get switched/blow well before the toggle switch gets that much juice. I don't run anywhere close to 20 amps anyways, its a just in case sort of thing.

 

[madeindetroit]

Thanks everyone!
Went to the shack and picked up that switch.

Works great thanks!

 

[kbosch71]

what switch did you go with? how many amps i got a 71 with the pma kit and need a switch thanks

 

[madeindetroit]

Just go to radio shack and look at the switches they have a couple of choices.

I went with one similar to posted because it looked better.

I wish I could find a rubber seal for this but it works.