650 DIED On The Way Home - Looking For Suggestions

[bdholsin]

Hey guys. I'm soliciting your advice. I was coming home from my dad's house today and pulled up to a stop light about a mile from home. Dropped it in first and started to let out the clutch and the bike died. Just up and quit on me. I got it back into neutral but noticed that my indicator light won't light up. The starter won't turn over and it won't fire if I kick it. No headlight, no indicator lights, no blinkers. The bike is electrically dead. Battery is new this past fall and I had it on a battery tender most of the winter. I've also put a couple hundred miles on the bike so far this spring.

One observation...on the way back I noticed a couple of very very very slight surges/stumbles at 55 MPH. It had the feeling like the tank was starting to go dry (I checked, there is indeed fuel in there). It was barely noticeable...so much so that I thought the wind had gusted behind me and pushed me a little bit.

The bike ('83 Special) is stock as far as the electrical system goes. All I'm running is pod filters.

Suspicions:
1. Ignition switch. Could it "go bad" or have something come disconnected inside it? How easy are these things to replace? I see mikes has it for $33.
2. Kill switch. I haven't touched this thing so I have no idea what is in there. Actually, when I kill the bike I always just turn off the key. I'll be looking inside it tomorrow. However, this won't explain why my indicator lights aren't working. That's why I'm strongly suspecting the ignition switch.

What I've checked so far:
1. Fuses. They are all in tact. They are the stock fuses (round style).
2. Gas. Yep, only used about a gallon in this last tank so I know there is fuel. That won't explain the fact that my center indicator isn't working.

I'll be checking the battery voltage tomorrow but wanted to solicit some ideas from the community before I go chasing my tail. Hopefully one of you seasoned veterans will take a look at my problem and say, "I've had that problem. It's this..."

Thanks.

 

[pa23driver]

sounds like your charging system took a dump. you'll probably find that your battery is dead tomorrow. while you're checking your battery take a look at your brushes in the alternator - it could be that they're just worn down.

how many miles are on the bike?

 

[gggGary]

Zero zip nada electric usually means an open cicuit somewhere. Fuse box is a prime suspect and a bad ignition switch happens too. As you surmise the kill switch while a common problem area should not cause a no electric at all condition. The quick check for the ignition switch is a piece of 12 or 14 gauge house wire bent into a U, strip 1/2" of insulation from each end and hammer them flat. Pull the ignition switch connector in the headlight shell and stick the U wire in the harness side red to brown. I keep three or 4 of those wires around the shop for electical "testing" Shhh don't tell the bike thieves this one!

 

[retiredgentleman]

Sounds like a classic case of fuse panel "fubar".

The original fuse panels (4 glass type fuses) were OK in their day, but after all these years they are worn out. The little clips lose tension and they become corroded. Their resistance increases and they can even heat up. They appear to be fine, but they cause intermittant electrical faults.

Replace the 4 with inline automotive blade type fuse holders. Solder the splices and use heat shrink tubing. Result....................big increase in reliability

 

[jayel]

ATO/ATC 4 fuse block here
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d136.html

 

[azman857]

Listen to retired gentleman. It happened to me to. Rideing along, stopped at the light and it stopped like I hit the kill switch. Replaced the 20 amp on my '80 and lordy, lordy it fired right up.

 

[tadd442]

better just give up, I'll be over this weekend to get it.

 

[bdholsin]

Ok, I checked my battery voltage this morning. It's showing 12.9 V right now. After I do some running I'll take a look at the fuse block.

I'll try and jump the main fuse and see what happens. If power comes back it would indicate the fuse block as the culprit, right?

Next will be gggGary's suggestion. I'll try and jump the ignition switch with a piece of wire as he suggested.

I'll report back. Thanks guys.

 

[gggGary]

Not mentioned yet is bad ground or main battery wires, both do go south on old bikes. Wiggle, unbolt, clean connections scrape, sand the frame clean and check how firmly the ends are crimped to the wires. I have seen the crimped on ends just fall off, the wire at the end had turned to powder. But the the fuse box is still #1 on the culprit list.

 

[Yamakazi]

I had NO luck finding those little 1" glass fuses around town, and wound up ordering them from Mike's XS. They're cheap at $1.10 for a pack of 5, but add in shipping and the extreme time lag for delivery...kinda kills the moment.

retiredgentleman & jayel's suggestion of changing out the fuse block with a modern blade-type fuse block is the way to go. Just label your wires before you start cutting and re-working.

 

[pa23driver]

Advance Auto sells the glass fuses.

 

[bdholsin]

Problem solved. Thanks for all the suggestions. Turns out the main 20 A fuse must have been original to the bike. It looked good with a visual inspection but when I took it out the end cap came off in my hand. The metal strip in the center separated from the end cap. Picked up a new fuse at my local hardware store, put it in and the 'ol girl fired right up.

Case closed.

 

[Yamakazi]

Advance Auto sells the glass fuses.

Thanks. Probably the only place I did not check, even though now that I think about it, there may be one on my side of town.

O'Reillys, AutoZone, NAPA, a nearby motorcycle shop (Honda) were no joy for me. I think I said screw it, I'll order from Mike's.

 

[bdholsin]

ATO/ATC 4 fuse block here
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d136.html

Just ordered it today. Should be here soon. Since the correct stock fuses aren't in abundance I'll switch to the more common blade style and be happy.

 

[jayel]

Just ordered it today. Should be here soon. Since the correct stock fuses aren't in abundance I'll switch to the more common blade style and be happy.

won't vibrate apart like the glass ones either, round up a soldering gun and some shrink tubing while you wait, radio shack has cheap soldering irons if you don't already have one and should have the tubing or at get it at a auto supply
http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/how_to/solder/index.html

 

[bdholsin]

I have a couple soldering guns/irons and shrink tubing on hand. I'm ready to go as soon as the fuse block arrives.

I'm also prepping to order tires, clutch cable, throttle cable, tach and speedo cables from oldbikebarn.com as well. Just some stuff that should be done so I don't get stranded along side the road again. Just waiting for my tax return to get deposited by "Big Brother".

 

[XSLeo]

Just a tip, lube those cables before you install them. They come dry.

 

[bdholsin]

XSLeo,
Crap, they come dry? Can you clarify...which ones need to be lubed? The throttle and clutch cable or the tach/speedo cables?

Great, now I need to order ANOTHER tool. Hopefully I can find a cable lube tool at Sears, Home Depot or Lowes. I don't want to have to order it online and wait for it to arrive. As the grand poobah of the instant gratification club I don't like waiting.

Thanks for the advice.
B

 

[gggGary]

Special tool = Electrical tape; wind a cone on the handle bar end of the cable housing. leave the cable sticking straight up. squirt in some oil , go have a beer, install.

 

[bdholsin]

Special tool = Electrical tape; wind a cone on the handle bar end of the cable housing. leave the cable sticking straight up. squirt in some oil , go have a beer, install.

Great!!! Works for me. Thanks gggGary.

I'm willing to bet I'm about the only member of this forum who isn't a beer drinker. As a matter of fact I'm not much of a drinker at all. I may have 4 or 5 glasses of wine when the wife and I go out for dinner (over the entire year). Sorry to disappoint you all.