77 Wobble over 60mph?!?

The whole thing felt like a jet ski before I switched the swing arm bearings/bushings.

What does that mean? If you mean it was good, then you induced the problem when you installed swingarm bearings. If you mean it was bad, then carry on.
BTW, if steering head bearings have not begun brinnelling, they are fine to continue. In some applications the ball bearings are preferred. The notchy steering will manifest itself differently than you described.
 
Handled like a JetSki :umm:

I took that as if.. "my lower back aches so much I need to get off and swim, however, my forearms are so tired I cannot..
:lmao:
Getting older is a bitch. I’d like to give Mother Nature a black eye. Haha. Wasn’t till recent years society became so sensitive about domestic violence..... I kill me.
 
Yeah, the jet ski reference, could've chosen a better analogy. What I meant was the whole bike felt like it was floating side to side. Not good. I will check out All Balls. Thanks guys
 
When I have the front end of the bike elevated there is no play at all. And it rotates smoothly. I don't think it is the steering bearings.

I think you guys are right about the tires. I feel much better if all the miles on a set of tires are mine anyway. Time to part with more cash.
 
When I have the front end of the bike elevated there is no play at all. And it rotates smoothly. I don't think it is the steering bearings.
Put it on the ground... lock the front brake and rock the bike fore and aft. Hear any "clicking" sounds?
 
Really I like the stock setup on these steering head bearings. The balls can be replaced. Rebuildable is always better. My first few rebuilds I freaked and bought “All Balls” replacement sealed bearings. If the races are good, they sell balls at my local hardware. Balls are cheap. That’s probably the most times Ive said balls in one post. Haha
 
If your steering bearings are set too tight, that can cause that gentle side to side weaving you're getting. I'd also reduce your air pressures a little, at least on the front. Granted, modern tires do run more air than the typical 28 front - 32 rear spec common on many '70's bikes, but 38 is a little high. I run 30-32 front and about 36 rear.
 
No clicking sounds.

No clicking sounds.

As Jim says - not having a "click" when rocking the bike back and forth is not a guarantee of no bearing race damage.

Brinnelling - which is the "denting" type of damage that normally occurs with rolling element (i.e. balls or rollers) bearings leads to dents in the races which are actually quite small as shown in Mailman's photo above.

If the steering head bearings are adjusted tight, you likely wouldn't feel a "click" by holding the brake and rocking the bike forward and backward, but the bearings may still "hunt" back and forth as the balls move from one "dent" to another - and the rider will feel that as a wobble when riding.

Another way of diagnosing this type damage is to:
  1. lift the front wheel of the bike off the ground (say with a block of wood under the engine or by having a buddy push down on the rear end);
  2. grab the front wheel - the ends of the front axle make a good spot (I usually sit on the floor in front of the bike to do this);
  3. pull the front wheel firmly forward - as if the weight of the bike is on it;
  4. pivot the front wheel right and left - and see if you can detect a "click" as it goes past the centre spot.
If there is any sort of "detent" there - that could cause a wobble.

As I said earlier, tapered roller bearings will carry a much bigger load than the stock ball bearings and thus, they should last much longer than the stock bearings.

Pete
 
but the bearings may still "hunt" back and forth as the balls move from one "dent" to another - and the rider will feel that as a wobble when riding.
This was not my experience with brinnelled bearings. My 650 had a detent at straight ahead. To turn, I had to push out of the detent. The bike just wanted to go straight ahead. Moving the bars right to left, I could feel the detent. Straight ahead, it drove fine, no wobble.
 
getting a lot of conflicting opinions........just throwing momey at it without more diagnostics isn't what o would be doing.

First thing i would do is examine the front wheel/tyre for bent rim, loose spokes, tyre not beaded into the rim properly and a bulge in the tyre wall.

On the center stand and a jack under the front engine mount till the front wheel is off the ground. Spin the front wheel and hold a stick, pencil, piece of anything really, bracing your hand and point the end at the edge of the inside of the rim and spin the wheel. This will show if the rim isn't true, either sideways or up and down. If that is ok spin the wheel again, or just do it slow, and check the sidewall, Or anywhere on the tyre, for a bulge. They can be hard to see sometimes so again use a marker to check the tyre for round

If that is ok, go around and hit the spokes and listen to the sound, A good spoke will ring, a dud spoke sounds dull/flat...............test the spokes even if you find a problem somewhere else just as a maintenance check

While the front is off the ground check the steering head bearings for the right tension. Hold the handle bars straight and then let go and let the front wheel fall to the side. if it falls fast and crashes against the stop quite hard means the front end is loose, If it stays facing the front without falling then the front is to tight, or is a severe case the original bearings have been worn and the PO has over tightened it to take up the slack................this could be a cause of a wobble or hunting, (a term used to describe when the bike/car wants to weave). The front should fall to the side in an orderly calm manor.............If the front is adjusted per the manual, not to tight or to loose, even with the original bearings in it you can determine if the bearings have Brinnelled as you will feel it by turning the front forks slowly side to side. There will be some resistance, ( i agree with Jetmarty, the brinnelling should be as the forks face the front as that is where they are sitting 90% of the time).

Again while the front is up and if all of the above has been checked check the front Wheel bearing by pushing and pulling and twisting on the front wheel, Doesn't have to be hard just use steady force and listen for sounds or any vibration through the wheel.

The rear wheel should be checked as well, Tyre, spokes, tyre beading, and the bearings.

If everything works out ok, do check the shocks on the bike. Take them off and test the rebound on them.

As an aside
I had a set of shocks that looked ok and while i had the ba ck wheel off i was just sitting there and without thinking of a reason why i grabbed the shock and wiggled t back and forward. It exploded on my hand. The shaft snaped off at the top mount and the spring and cap flew off. Looking at the shaft it had an old crack, (metal fatigue), that finally gave way when i gently wiggled it side to side.................. As you can see, where the fresh break is
P1090853.JPG
 
Just about everything that has been posted already, my 2 cents worth is check the engine mounting bolts. These old frames are a little flexable and tightening the engine bolts stiffens things up a bit. While you'r at it give the frame a once over for any cracks too. ( I've got an XS2 frame here with a crack in the cross tube at the back of the engine, although yours is a later model and should be stronger) I also think the tire pressures are a little too high. i run mine at 28/30psi.
Hell Skull that was effin close Mate.
 
The shaft snapped off at the top mount and the spring and cap flew off. Looking at the shaft it had an old crack, (metal fatigue), that finally gave way when i gently wiggled it side to side.................. As you can see, where the fresh break is
This happened to me at the 2018 VYR. My 12 Series Progressive Suspension shock had a weld fail at the top. Excuse the "me too", please.
 
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