what is this Tom ? it looks like someone has tied the the coil feed to the signal supply ? unless I'm reading this wrong. As 2M says you definitely need to print out an A3 copy of your wiring schematic and start going through your wiring
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'79 XS650 alternator/stator help
- Thread starter Tom
- Start date
Yep, i understand that, hence me saying that i assumed the bike could start and run even if the reg is wrong. The image i attached is of the wires coming directly from the stator.
So i'll do some investigation but from research i'm questioning/narrowing down the following:
1: Is this a PMA set up or non-standard non-PMA? I can't find any picks online of something similar.
2: What are the other two wires coming from the stator?
3: If PMA, i need a new regulator.
So i'll do some investigation but from research i'm questioning/narrowing down the following:
1: Is this a PMA set up or non-standard non-PMA? I can't find any picks online of something similar.
2: What are the other two wires coming from the stator?
3: If PMA, i need a new regulator.
Yep
There's a few of those. Hence why i said earlier whether you guy think i should just get a new loom. I hate trying to fix someone's mess, especially when it's electrical!
Great idea. I'll print out the diagram and go through eveyrhing. Thanks all
Great idea. I'll print out the diagram and go through eveyrhing. Thanks all
Tom we have already established that your bike is fitted with a PMA alternator see post #4 and #6 and others
You need to purchase a PMA type regulator and rectifier to go with your PMA alternator.
I gave you a picture and a link to a suitable regulator and rectifier for you .
Unless 2M and others (who have considerably more experience and knowledge of XS650s than I do ) advise otherwise you are going to have to bite the bullet and buy it .
it will come with clear instructions how to fit it to your PMA .
Saying that I should warn you that you have not yet determined that the PMA alternator fitted to your engine actually works.
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Yes, does the PMA actually work?
Find the video chain that accompanies this:
Find the video chain that accompanies this:
excellent video guide 2M .
So Tom follow the 3x white wires from your Alternator to the male spade connectors you showed in a previous picture.Make sure that they are disconnected. If you have connected them to the other 3x white female connectors... disconnect them.
When testing the Stator white wires as per the video make sure that you do not let the ends of the wires short out . I would tape the 3x white wires together about 1" from the ends and then splay the 3x spade connectors out away from each other.
Follow the video testing and let us know the results . Ask if anything isn't clear ok.
Don't worry which wire is A or B thats just when they are in the connector. Just name any of the 3x wires A , B & C or 1,2 & 3 as you wish and follow the sequence in the video
So Tom follow the 3x white wires from your Alternator to the male spade connectors you showed in a previous picture.Make sure that they are disconnected. If you have connected them to the other 3x white female connectors... disconnect them.
When testing the Stator white wires as per the video make sure that you do not let the ends of the wires short out . I would tape the 3x white wires together about 1" from the ends and then splay the 3x spade connectors out away from each other.
Follow the video testing and let us know the results . Ask if anything isn't clear ok.
Don't worry which wire is A or B thats just when they are in the connector. Just name any of the 3x wires A , B & C or 1,2 & 3 as you wish and follow the sequence in the video
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Based on the video, the test proved that the stator works (0.6 ohms from each wire) as does the current reg/rec (diode test). Separately, I started the bike (battery 12.4 V) and put the VOM across the battery when idling, the bike sat around 12.3-6 V and the headlight increased its brightness when the bike was revved. How much should the battery charge once connected to the bike and the bike is being revved?
Once the bike was running, the horn, starter motor and headlight low/high beam started to work.
Does this mean the bike is charging? Hmm...
Once the bike was running, the horn, starter motor and headlight low/high beam started to work.
Does this mean the bike is charging? Hmm...
Sounds like it. Revved above 2000 rpm, should see around 14.0v - 14.5v at the battery. If the battery is low, it may take a few minutes to get there...
fit one of these LED charge indicators and you can see at a glance what your charging situation is even whilst riding.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-LED-b...739106&hash=item2ee0b62b98:g:DMwAAOxyRhBSqKcI
I have to say Tom you do need to buy yourself a Manual....
all this stuff is in most manuals, there are even free manuals to download if you do a search.Haynes is better than nothing (just ) but most recommend the Clymer manual.
There are also 2x other books I'd recommend
Chiltons Yamaha 650 Repair & Tune-up Guide &
Chiltons Motorcycle Troubleshooting Guide which mostly uses the Yamaha XS650 in the examples .
fit one of these LED charge indicators and you can see at a glance what your charging situation is even whilst riding.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-LED-b...739106&hash=item2ee0b62b98:g:DMwAAOxyRhBSqKcI
I have to say Tom you do need to buy yourself a Manual....
Haynes is better than nothing (just ) but most recommend the Clymer manual.
There are also 2x other books I'd recommend
Chiltons Yamaha 650 Repair & Tune-up Guide &
Chiltons Motorcycle Troubleshooting Guide which mostly uses the Yamaha XS650 in the examples .
Good idea with the charge indicator, i'll look into it. I have a manual, a few in fact but as my bike is fitted with a PMA (not original) and because of that, I thought it would be charging at a different rate to that of a standard bike. Why do I feel like i need to explain myself every time??
you don't !
but it definitely helps to remind those of us on here that are monitoring 10+ threads with owners that all have completely different spec bikes .The battery you use with your PMA is exactly the same battery used with non-PMA bikes and (within tolerance), requires exactly the same charging rate give or take depending on how much you've removed from the bike and how much you may have added/upgraded to the bikes stock electrical load.
The only difference is in the Rotors ,as I've already explained , the rotor on a non-PMA alternator requires a continuous 12v power supply through it to create an energy field (magnet) whereas a PMA alternator needs no electrical supply to the rotor because the rotor already is a 'permanent magnet' alternator (PMA)
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