81 rim is bent

Yes, it will work but then you will be mixing an alloy rim with a steel one. They say that isn't a good idea because they flex differently and that could effect the handling. But, the way most of us just putt around, you probably wouldn't notice the mis-match.
 
It's not, it's aluminum alloy. It's the flanged alloy "rain catcher" style rim that many of us love.
 
I am still new to a lot regarding bikes. So if I wanted to take my bike out, with the 75 alloys on it, onto the highway and do between 60 and 70 mph, how much would it affect my handling? Also would I be able to run my current tire on the 75 rim, 100/90-19, and would I have to change the rotor?
 
Going down the road in a straight line, you probably won't notice any difference. Where the problems may occur is in corners when you are applying a side load to the wheels. Like I said, alloy and steel rims flex differently. One, most likely the alloy, will "give" or flex a bit more. That may throw off the wheel alignment and possibly induce a wobble. But, maybe things would be just fine. I can't speak from experience because this is something I never tried. This warning against mis-matching rim types has been around for years. There must be good reason for it and I never felt the need to test the theory.

Yes, you would need to swap the discs but it's a simple bolt-on swap. The 2 piece style rotor on that '75 wheel has a different off-set compared to your '81 disc. It won't align with the caliper. The only caution you'll need to take is with the length of the disc mounting bolts. If you look at the second last pic for that '75 wheel, you'll see that the disc mounting holes are "blind", they don't go all the way through the hub. Look at your current '81 wheel and you'll see they do. If you use a mounting bolt that is too long on the '75 hub, it can break a chunk out of the back of the hub. Compare the mounting bolt lengths between the two wheels. If the '75 ones are shorter, use them.
 
Yamaha made lots of these bike, near a half million of them. Used parts are still pretty plentiful. Watch your local Craigslist. There was a front alloy wheel on mine recently for $30.
 
You can do it on the bike but off the bike in a dedicated wheel stand is easier. But, you probably don't have one of those so on the bike is your only option. You'll need to rig up a pointer of some sort to position near the side of the rim so you can gauge your progress (or lack thereof, lol).
 
Is the rim toast?

I would try to true-up the wheel first if possible before buying a new rim. There are a ton of vids out there on doing this...it's not that hard, just takes a little time and general understanding on how the different spokes will impact the run of the rim. But unless the rim is bent or has a major crease/stress fracture, etc...then it should be able to true up and back to straight/alignment.
 
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