Adjusting the clutch

[STVR]

So I have been having a few issues with my bike. Its pretty hard to get into neutral
at times but not all the time. I know these bikes are pretty difficult to find neutral. I ended up changing my oil with clutch oil it seems to have gotten better but still not great. So the next step im assuming is to adjust the clutch cable at the wormring (small chrome cover on the clutch cover). I have never done this can some one just give me a quick tutorial on how to do this correctly. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Stv

 

[gggGary]

From the tech section where all things XS are answered. Courtesy INXS

XS650 CLUTCH CABLE ADJUSTMENT

Be aware that there are 2 adjustment settings for XS650s, cold and hot. The push rods that transfer the worm gear action to the clutch pressure plate are made from steel. These transverse the motor and seat in aluminium. Aluminium thermally expands faster and further than steel giving XSive end play as the motor warms up.

Cold Adjustment…
1. Remove left casing, release cable
2. Clean and lube cable
3. Clean and lube worm gear
4. Repack the ball bearing with grease
5. Remove and clean the push rod, reinstall
6. Reinstall cable
7. Back the worm gear screw out 1/8th turn…pump the lever in and out just enough to take up the free play (don't pull all the way in). This "stacks" the push rods and balls together, taking up any slack and squeezing excess oil out from between them – gives a more accurate "feel" for the rod free play and adjustment.
8. Adjust the lever play to almost nil
9. After 20 minutes or so riding, readjust lever free-play

Your clutch should now operate smoothly, like new. If still hard, the cable may be worn or frayed and should be replaced.

After any service, test ride your motorcycle in a controlled situation before riding in traffic.

You would not believe how many people think they have a clutch problem just because the lever is hard to pull.

 

[weekendrider]

Loosen the slack adjuster at the perch completely.
Pop the cap, loosen the lock nut.
Turn the adjuster in till it meets resistance. At this point it is now touching the push rod.
Back it off ( the manual says 1/4 turn I use 1/8) tighten lock nut.
Replace cap.
Take the slack out at the perch adjuster untill you have a free play gap (about the thickness of a quarter) between the handle and the perch.

Before I did this with an unknown I would remove the rachet bits to clean and grease.
Looking especaily to the ball that should be in there and the plastic gear.
If the ball is missing or the gear cracked/broken the adjustment will never be right.
I didn't say it wouldn't be workable it just won't be right.
But then if you don't know/feel the difference it may feel better even with the broken/cracked gear spreading. I'm not sure you could adjust out the missing ball, maybe though stranger things happen.

I never have used the hot/cold settings. An 1/8 turn back and it stays the same till adjusted again.

HeHe, you have to be fast don't cha Classic

 

[Classic]

What do you mean.... clutch oil???

1: Remove chrome worm adjustment cover.
2: Loosen nut.
3: Loosen phillips head bolt a couple turns.
4: Tighten back up to where you can just feel the bolt touch the clutch pushrod.
5: Repeat 3 and 4 until you feel it is making contact without applying pressure.
6: Refasten nut while holding the phillips head bolt.


EDIT: Holy crap! 10:58,10:59,11:00......

 

[TeeCat]

Have a peek of "tech", up top: second bold face heading down.

Also, be aware that your engine and transmission share lubricant. You're well advised to have a peek at the oil recommendations as well.

Welcome to the wonderful world of unequally expanding cases and actuator parts!

TC

(Oops... I type slowly!)

 

[5twins]

My recent spring clutch parts service .....

Besides oiling the cable with motor oil, greasing the worm and hand lever pivot, this included :

- clean and grease the exposed portion of the clutch pushrod
- clean and grease the shift shaft section that rides in the case
- clean and grease that hole in the case
- inject grease into the cable elbow using a needle point grease gun attachment

..... and of course, an adjustment of the worm gear.

 

[STVR]

So after following gggGary's listed advise I just got done pulling the worm gear and push rod cleaning and re-greasing the ball bearing. I put everything back together and it goes into neutral soooooo easy now! Thanks Gary! I didn't have to adjust the locknut or screw, thank goodness because I tried loosening the locknut and it didn't budge. I tried heating it up and used a little WD40 to try and loosen it and nothing. So instead of trying to HeMan it I just let it be didn't want to strip the screw. Clutch is pretty easy on the hand and she goes into neutral every time! One quick non clutch question. I tried starting my bike and seems like every few time I try and start it when its cold it kind of spatters then a little pop and smoke comes out of the carbs, then a few more kicks and she starts right up. Any clue what this is from? Jetting? card adjustment? fuel screw? When im riding it it runs great sounds great its just when I first start it it does this. It also sounds a little sluggish until it warms up. I'll give a little throttle and sounds like she is gonna die. But after I put the choke on for a minute its all good. Thanks again for all the help!

Stv

 

[5twins]

If you have points, your timing may be off a little. That sounds like backfiring through the carbs which can be caused by the timing being off slightly.

 

[STVR]

5Twins I have never set the timing on anything before any quick step by step instructions or a link? I read the manually but its a little cryptic to me

 

[5twins]

Well, this may help. It explains the basics and what effect changing this or that will have, also the proper order in which to do things (points gaps 1st, right cylinder timing, then left cylinder timing). Combine it with the manual instructions and hopefully you'll understand the procedure .....

http://xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=ID&action=display&thread=7984

Use a timing light if possible. The static method with a light bulb or ohm meter isn't always that accurate. I use it to get "in the ballpark" so the bike will start, then time it with the timing light.

 

[johnnmcguire]

Thanks gggGary! I'll run the procedure when my new cable comes in... I had to share, though, that I made it 2 hours home after the lever end of my original 1982 cable came apart today by using a piece of picture hanging wire looped through the clutch worm gear lever, out the cable hole in the side case and tied to a piece of paracord which I then tied around my leg where I could pull it.... Always carry tools... and wire... and zip ties.... and duct tape.... Don't recommend it, but if the zombie apocalypse ever comes I have a workaround for a busted clutch cable ;-)

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

... a piece of picture hanging wire looped through the clutch worm gear lever, out the cable hole in the side case and tied to a piece of paracord which I then tied around my leg where I could pull it....

... I have a workaround for a busted clutch cable ;-)

Pretty novel solution. A "leg" clutch.

I found this interesting.

 

[Jim]

Pretty novel solution. A "leg" clutch.

I found this interesting.

Heh... had an old Honda yrs. ago, CB160 I think. Shift lever shaft was so boogered up you couldn't put a lever on it. Clamped some vise grips on it and rode it forever like that. Wish I had taken a pic. To this day I have absolutely no problem rotating my left foot 90 degrees to the right