Allie's Official build thread

Ncbikebabe

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About to go to the garage and start tinkering so I wanted to make a build thread. I won't even pretend to say that I know where to start so I hope you guys are ready to help! One of the things I noticed was that I have no key for my gas tank so would I drill the lid off and buy a new one? Where would you guys start if you had a non running bike on day one?
 
Too much to list, I usually start with fuel, after being sure that the engine goes round and there is some compression. Clean tank, working petcock, good plumbing and filter, clean carbs, then I move to the ignition and electrics.

There are instructions on the forum for popping the gascap open and changing the lock to work with any key. Don't drill it.

Scott
 
cool. I know the engine isn't seized. i can move the kickstart and it turns. I will see about getting the lid off today. thanks for the advice!
 
the frame I'm using already has a custom rear setup. It looks similar to a brat kit. I was planning on leaving it like that.
B6EFEEC5-orig.jpg
 
Like mrtwowheel I start with the power unit.
The nicest roller just isn't cool when you are skateboarding it.
 
:popcorn: Fuel, air, spark.
P.S. Those forks creep me out haha
 
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For the engine, it's pretty much what Mick71b said: spark, fuel, air, and compression are the things needed to make an engine run.

Spark: I'm not familiar with the electrical systems on these bikes, so someone else will hopefully be able to give you a good rundown on that. All I can really say is check every part one by one: battery have good voltage, coil operating properly, spark plugs have spark, etc.

Fuel: Start by checking the tank for rust, if it's rusty, clean it. Then the petcocks, do they let fuel pass, stop fuel, and not leak? Are your fuel lines in good shape, are they cracked, plugged, or worn? Find out what kind of carbs you're working with, rebuild them if they need it, or possibly right away so you don't get it all together only to find out they're dirty/plugged/non-operational.

Air: Pretty simple, if there's nothing blocking the airbox or the air intake on the carbs, you should be getting air. Running without filters will cause it to run quite lean with stock carb settings, so just watch out for that.

Compression: Easiest way to test it to rent a compression tester from Advance Auto, Autozone, etc. It should come with directions or you should be able to ask the person at the counter. If I remember correctly, most of the time the actual compression of a cylinder is not as important as the relationship the cylinders have to each other. That's not to say compression is not important, if you're very low it won't run for crap, but it's also important that the cylinders have compression close to one another. So if cylinder #1 has compression of 150 PSI and cylinder #2 has compression of 140 PSI, you're still ok(from what I remember on cars anyway). If they're far off though, that's a problem, and very low PSI is also a problem.


Hopefully that will give you a decent start on the engine, other than that my advice would be: run it one system at a time. Engine, transmission, brakes, suspension, etc
 
what??? you don't like my dirtbike forks??? lol. Got a lot of cleaning done. I installed a new clutch cable and cleaned out my carbs. Yeah its not much but i was happy lol. I did manage to check the engines again and verify that they do match the frames. I also took a few picture of random parts to post pictures and get them identified. I got the lid off my gas tank finally and its REALLY rusty inside. I know I could clean it but I am tempted to just buy another tank.
 
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That's a nice tank and it deserves a new life. That's not the right attitude to have. If every part is not worth the effort then you should visit the showrooms to buy a "new" bike. Rust is easy to remove with electrolysis and then phosphoric acid. Clean the tank, come on.

Scott

Make some new friends that have tools.
 
For cleaning the tank, I used Evaporust on mine. There are other similar products on the market, water based, non-toxic, remove rust only, don't damage rubber or plastic. I just taped everything over with duct tape really well and let it sit in different positions to move the liquid around. If you decided you wanted to use some sort of abrasive on the inside: gravel, bolts, BBs, etc I would recommend something magnetic and not too small, that way it's easier to get everything out.
 
White Vinegar, (fill to top and let sit till it froths up and then leave it for a few more days).

Molasses, ( 1 part molasses to 10 parts water and mix in warm to hot water first to melt the molasses), let it sit for a week or more, Warmer weather will make it work faster, may evaporate so will have to top up or cover the hole, DO NOT SEAL UP.

Electrolysis,

Rise with WD40 after emptying to stop rust
 
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