Almost Stranded. Troubleshooting Advice for PMA/Stock Points Requested

[chizler62]

GS Suzukis are notoriously weak on this stuff. On mine I took all three stator wires and soldered them directly to the regucorrosion wires. Even decent plugins can cost you voltage. I picked up a full volt and a half with that simple step, from 12.2 to 13.7. Your PMA should run on the same principle

Interesting comment. I myself typically will replace the connector with high quality RC (radio control ) connectors with little resistance and high corrosionresistance.
On my custom builds I run it thru the frame inside a brass tube that's*brazed in. I end up with two connectors.

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[smg65]

Saturday morning, and I'm finally back with the bike. As far as my limited knowledge will allow, the reg/rec seems to pass the tests with the multimeter. The reg/rec is totally removed from the bike. With the battery fully charged and installed, the bike fired up immediately with the stator and reg/rec disconnected and settled into a nice steady idle. When I touched the multimeter probes to the stator, there was no indication of charging whatsoever. I have not removed the stator to thoroughly inspect it. I didn't notice any burnt smell, and the wires appeared shiney and gold. Of course, there could be a break that I can't see. Attached are pics of the stator connector and the multimeter. The connector is held to the frame with zip ties to hold it steady for my testing. I attached the multimeter pic just because I might not be using it right. The dial section where I marked "car" is where I measure battery voltage and the setting I used at the stator connector with the engine running. But I'm wondering if I'm using it correctly for ohms. The Fluke multimeter in the video has a simple ohms setting. Mine has some variables I need to select from. SO..... what next? Pull stator? If I screwed up testing, do it again? Thanks in advance for your advice!!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Oh, yeah, meter usage.

To test the resistance of the stator windings (engine not running), use the 200 ohm setting.

To test the AC output of the stator (engine running), use the 200 Vac setting, for all 3 combos.

Another comment, on the second video, rec/reg test:
If the rec/reg fails the test, it's bad.
If the rec/reg passes the test, that means that only the rectifier portion passed. The regulator portion remains unknown...

 

[smg65]

Thanks, TwoMany. When I set the multimeter to 200 Vac, I only saw a reading of .6 across two spades with the motor running. Unless I'm doing something wrong again, it seems the PMA is not putting out. I didn't redo any other tests. My previous experience with a multimeter has been limited to checking car batteries and household current. Seems that another Mike's PMA kit is in my immediate future.

Thanks again!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Yew betcha. If you'd like to learn more about your system, type "pma 3-phase" into the upper left searchbox, many informative threads...

 

[smg65]

A couple of questions, and maybe this thread can be put to rest! 1. Would it be worthwhile to pull the stator to see if there is something simple going on? 2. If I'm replacing it all, should I stick with the Mike's setup for ease of installation? The pic shows what's on the bike, except the PO didn't use the reg/rec mount. He hung it with a zip tie! Remember, I'm a total noob at this stuff!! As always, thank you!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

1 - Absolutely. If you're replacing it, then you're pulling it anyways. Examine the solder joints, too.
2 - Your call. Switching from one type gadget to another can be easy, or hard.

Bear in mind that you'll need the flywheel puller, and be able to establish TDC to mark the new(?) rotor, and be able to set ignition timing...

 

[smg65]

Is this the correct puller for the PMA, as well as the stock alternator? Mikes part 35-0040. I'll order it right away if so. I have no problem with timing, etc. I've done that plenty of times. In fact, the PO hadn't scribed timing marks when he installed the PMA, so that's when I built my piston stop tool. It's the world of electrics in which I'm totally lost.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

That puller works only on the stock rotor. You'll need to figure which PMA rotor you have and get the appropriate puller...

 

[smg65]

Ahhh... the plot thickens! LOL. I'm almost positive it's Mike's. The PO, when selling me the bike last year, told me I could find anything at Mike's. And I recall him saying something about electrical parts he had gotten. Here's a pic from one of my first posts. I wanted to time the bike, needed timing marks, and realized it wasn't the stock rotor. It appears to be identical to Mike's PMA kit. Unfortunately, I don't see any other pullers at the site. Some searching led to the Banshee flywheel puller. Guessing that's what I need. Thanks!

 

[smg65]

Here's a video I found showing the removal of a Banshee flywheel. Too bad I don't have access to an air impact tool!

Flywheel & Stator Yamaha Banshee YFZ350:

 

[smg65]

Success! My work schedule didn't allow me to work on the bike hardly at all... but I finished the PMA installation last night. It is charging perfectly.

I'm obviously not a wiz at electrical systems, but the tests I did suggested the bad PMA, and it was. The PO had done a very sloppy install of the components, even the PMA backing plate was buggered. The reg/rec was hanging by a zip tie. The wires from the reg/rec to the battery were super thin... probably way under the gauge required. (I still need to replace those.) All the connections were poorly done. Too bad... because I think the PMA kit wasn't very old... probably installed by a friend so he could sell the bike. Just a few small tidying up jobs and I'm back on the road.

Hugh shipped the PMA kit the very day I ordered it, and it was delivered just a couple days after, on a Saturday. Nice! His instructions are straightforward and easy to follow. The components look to be first rate... better than what I had removed. Now, perhaps I can get to the cosmetic work that had been sidelined.

Thanks all for your valuable input!