Nice to hear from you Marie. I too would prefer to complete many tasks in life by myself, but sometimes it just makes sense to pay someone to do it for you.
Looking forward to hearing more updates.
Looking forward to hearing more updates.
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An Adventure in Firsts: '83 XS650 Heritage Special Build/Rebuild
- Thread starter MarieKaramazov
- Start date
+1
On the bent spoke, not a problem in the short term. Add it to your list and maybe next time you have the wheel out, for a new tyre? you could replace the one spoke?
I've got a memory like a sieve but have so far managed not to drive off with disc lock still fitted. The method I use is, my disc lock comes in a small plastic pouch, so when I fit the lock I put both the lock key and the bike key in the pouch.
When I come back to the bike, I need to go into there to retrieve the bike key . . .
- - - Oh, and because I'm super smart I pulled away yesterday with my lock on the front wheel, so now I have a bent spoke. From the quick google I did it seems like i'm still good to ride like this? If I tug on the spoke it will rock verrry slightly (compared to when I tug on the one next to it that doesn't rock) - - -
View attachment 194137
View attachment 194138
Hi Marie,
the bent spoke moves because the bend gives you leverage to move it. The bend won't affect the bike's handling.
Straighten the bend using two crescent wrenches tightened onto the spoke and twisting them with a screwdriver
or similar item through the holes in their handles ends,
Is a crescent wrench the same we call a shifting spanner in Britain?
I did not understand that one
Is it two wrenches on top of each other and twisted around length axle with the screwdriver
Where place the wrenches in relation to the " Knee " on the spoke
Thank you Marty - I see it's a brand name thing, like Hoover for vacuum cleaner.
Straightening the spoke what do you think about
??? 2 C -clamps and two pieces of plank wood across ( perpendicular ) or inline with spoke if room for the clamps
the wheel
maybe a flatbar on the tight side
Clamping it straight.(er ) reevaluate after that
??? 2 C -clamps and two pieces of plank wood across ( perpendicular ) or inline with spoke if room for the clamps
the wheel
maybe a flatbar on the tight side
Clamping it straight.(er ) reevaluate after that
Hi Raymond,
like Marty's photo shows, it's name is written on the handle.
Consider self-locking pliers.
They're called Vise-Grips over 'ere and Mole grips back 'ome no matter who makes them.
Unlike most bargain basement versions only the genuine Vise-Grip or Mole wrench works properly.
Until production gets shifted to some slave labour economy offshore and quality plummets.
MarieKaramazov
XS650 Addict
So here’s an interesting one.
The other week I was riding up hill, shifted onto 5th gear and cranked the throttle. Then, i got a loud grinding sound and the bike started to wobble significantly enough to where i had to try to stabilize it ASAP and I got that stomach jump of: this may be it ladies and gents, brace yourself woman. I switched into fourth gear and all was normal again. I have stayed out of 5th gear since and it’s been fine 1-4 since. I’d like to test it to see what’s up and get a better read on the sound, but that wobble was rough enough it’s quite a gamble. I noticed after the fact that my tires were low, so perhaps that made the wobble worse because of crappier traction…(side note on that, I haven’t been able to fill my back tire because I could get the damn gas station air hose around the drum and onto the nipple; will need to try again.) anyway, I can get it on stand and try to get it in 5th gear and try to get some vid of it soon and post. Any ideas in the meantime are appreciated.
from some cursory research,I saw a post where someone had a similar issue and the source of the problem was the clutch basket (As if I know what that is yet; I have more to look into. Still need to read about how the whole damn machine works (rather than piece by piercing it) so I can start diagnosing and solving!
Also getting a feeling of a clicking like vibration around the steering neck area when I come to a stop
hopefully will have some time this week to get back at it all
Hope everyone is well!
The other week I was riding up hill, shifted onto 5th gear and cranked the throttle. Then, i got a loud grinding sound and the bike started to wobble significantly enough to where i had to try to stabilize it ASAP and I got that stomach jump of: this may be it ladies and gents, brace yourself woman. I switched into fourth gear and all was normal again. I have stayed out of 5th gear since and it’s been fine 1-4 since. I’d like to test it to see what’s up and get a better read on the sound, but that wobble was rough enough it’s quite a gamble. I noticed after the fact that my tires were low, so perhaps that made the wobble worse because of crappier traction…(side note on that, I haven’t been able to fill my back tire because I could get the damn gas station air hose around the drum and onto the nipple; will need to try again.) anyway, I can get it on stand and try to get it in 5th gear and try to get some vid of it soon and post. Any ideas in the meantime are appreciated.
from some cursory research,I saw a post where someone had a similar issue and the source of the problem was the clutch basket (As if I know what that is yet; I have more to look into. Still need to read about how the whole damn machine works (rather than piece by piercing it) so I can start diagnosing and solving!
Also getting a feeling of a clicking like vibration around the steering neck area when I come to a stop
hopefully will have some time this week to get back at it all
Hope everyone is well!
Hi Marie, good to hear from you again. I can't diagnose your fifth gear problem - you changed up into fifth while riding up hill, it might be as simple as under-revving the engine which would shudder in complaint. Or it could (unlikely, but could) be a problem in the gearbox with fifth gear.
I hope others will have suggestions.
You really need to get your tyre pressures sorted. If gas station air lines don't fit - they should, you might need to check out another station - you could invest in a foot pump or a hand pump to fill and check the pressures at home.
That click or clicking when you come to a stop means your headrace bearings are loose. Your bike has two yokes holding the forks and the steering head. The steering head passes down through the middle of the yokes, just behind the instruments. It has two sets of bearings, one under the top yoke the other above the lower yoke. There's a great big nut at the top, and just under it are two notched rings which adjust the preload on the bearings.
The adjustment should be done with 2 x C spanners, which fit the notched rings. Put bike on centre stand, loosen but do not remove the big nut with a socket, loosen the upper ring, turn the lower ring down (clockwise) to tighten the load on the bearings. It helps if you can lift the front wheel off the ground - jack or box under front of engine or a helper to push the rear of the bike down onto the back tyre. The adjustment is correct when the handlebar/forks/front wheel will just about turn from side-to-side under their own weight. When they turn smoothly with minimal effort, hold the lower ring with one C spanner and use the other to tighten the top ring (aka lock ring) down against it. Finally, do not forget to tighten the big top nut.
When the headrace bearings are correctly adjusted the bike handles like a dream. When they are too loose, so is the handling and you get the click as you come to a stop. If they are too tight, the bike will be reluctant to go into a turn, a bit like having a steering damper turned up too far. If the bearings are knackered - technical term - it will be impossible to adjust them to turn smoothly from side to side, they usually feel rough or notchy. When this is the case, you need to remove front wheel and forks, dismantle the yokes and steering head and replace the bearings. Further guidance can be given but that's probably plenty for now?
Finally, should point out that each of these problems can and should be sorted. But once they are sorted they are sorted and you have a better and safer bike.
I hope others will have suggestions.
You really need to get your tyre pressures sorted. If gas station air lines don't fit - they should, you might need to check out another station - you could invest in a foot pump or a hand pump to fill and check the pressures at home.
That click or clicking when you come to a stop means your headrace bearings are loose. Your bike has two yokes holding the forks and the steering head. The steering head passes down through the middle of the yokes, just behind the instruments. It has two sets of bearings, one under the top yoke the other above the lower yoke. There's a great big nut at the top, and just under it are two notched rings which adjust the preload on the bearings.
The adjustment should be done with 2 x C spanners, which fit the notched rings. Put bike on centre stand, loosen but do not remove the big nut with a socket, loosen the upper ring, turn the lower ring down (clockwise) to tighten the load on the bearings. It helps if you can lift the front wheel off the ground - jack or box under front of engine or a helper to push the rear of the bike down onto the back tyre. The adjustment is correct when the handlebar/forks/front wheel will just about turn from side-to-side under their own weight. When they turn smoothly with minimal effort, hold the lower ring with one C spanner and use the other to tighten the top ring (aka lock ring) down against it. Finally, do not forget to tighten the big top nut.
When the headrace bearings are correctly adjusted the bike handles like a dream. When they are too loose, so is the handling and you get the click as you come to a stop. If they are too tight, the bike will be reluctant to go into a turn, a bit like having a steering damper turned up too far. If the bearings are knackered - technical term - it will be impossible to adjust them to turn smoothly from side to side, they usually feel rough or notchy. When this is the case, you need to remove front wheel and forks, dismantle the yokes and steering head and replace the bearings. Further guidance can be given but that's probably plenty for now?
Finally, should point out that each of these problems can and should be sorted. But once they are sorted they are sorted and you have a better and safer bike.
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Absolutely essential for most bikes, as the gas station (and even my own air chucks) are useless for straight-on fitting when discs and other bits are in the way.
I have a couple of right-angle all-in-one tyre valves, but they're like hen's teeth to find these days, and had to resort to the add-ons as above.
Dont know about the grinding sound ?? Clutch slipping ??
but with the wrong tire pressure
loose head bearing
( Swing bushings ? )
And going uphill accelerating that is a situation when the load comes off the front wheel and the XS650 can start to shake its head. Regardless of what gear .
I have it going out of roundabouts when i sometimes go for it hard
Braking in and the forks compress .. on the exit with a lean on the bike opening up
the fork extends when the load goes back to the rear wheel it can happen that it wobbles a little
And I let go slowing down.
I sometimes do the same thing with a Honda Fireblade with a rock steady frame ..And meaning rock steady
The only time that bike shaked its head for 3 years was the same type roundabout exit Front wheel going up
a little Nothing major. More like a feedback signal --- Bike talking to me
I use a small air chuck like this on my air hoses to inflate motorcycle tires .....
I also have the long dual head style like this but it seldom fits a motorcycle wheel. It does work well on my car tires though .....
I also have the long dual head style like this but it seldom fits a motorcycle wheel. It does work well on my car tires though .....
All fine ideas if you have a shop and air compressor.
Marie does not, neither do I. I do ALL my motorcycle tire work including mounting tires and regularly monitoring and setting tire pressures on motorcycles and Mazda using a cheap bicycle air pump. It has a compact 90° lever lock on air valve.
Very easy lol
Marie does not, neither do I. I do ALL my motorcycle tire work including mounting tires and regularly monitoring and setting tire pressures on motorcycles and Mazda using a cheap bicycle air pump. It has a compact 90° lever lock on air valve.
Very easy lol
Have to admit that I am very particular about tire pressures. I really just set the pressures only at home in the garage or driveway. I set pressures on cold tires.
Now out on road trips I do carry a pressure gauge and will check and adjust at a gas station if necessary. In reality, even finding compressed air at gas stations is rare these days.
Now out on road trips I do carry a pressure gauge and will check and adjust at a gas station if necessary. In reality, even finding compressed air at gas stations is rare these days.
correct pressure is important and a partial flat could contribute once the problem manifest.
Small compresses, are cheap and will do the job you need. may be time to invest in one so your not reliant on service stations that may or may not have the right fitting for your bike. These small compressors work off the battery, are small enough they can be carried on the bike when traveling to work, or on a trip, and use before you leave home if you notice the air going to the top. Always good to pump up a tyre when cold, even a couple of kilometers to a service station can make the readings be off.
Jan makes a some good points. Other issues could be causing the shudder/wobbling problem. I cant see a gearbox problem causing the issue that happened. If 5th gear blew, or a part broke off it would be a miracle parts didn't catch on the other gears causing the whole box to blow. To help check if a gear has broken the oil can be drained to see if there is metal in the oil or on parts on the drain plug magnet.
combinations of the tyre and other issues. have you checked the sprocket bolts and chain, (although if they were the issue it should manifest in the other gears as well),
Swing arm bolt. The nut end has been known to break off. It has happened to me and i don't know how long i had been riding it before i noticed.
The clicking on the front needs to be diagnosed, tighten the stem nut, maybe its time to redo the steering head bearings.
Small compresses, are cheap and will do the job you need. may be time to invest in one so your not reliant on service stations that may or may not have the right fitting for your bike. These small compressors work off the battery, are small enough they can be carried on the bike when traveling to work, or on a trip, and use before you leave home if you notice the air going to the top. Always good to pump up a tyre when cold, even a couple of kilometers to a service station can make the readings be off.
Jan makes a some good points. Other issues could be causing the shudder/wobbling problem. I cant see a gearbox problem causing the issue that happened. If 5th gear blew, or a part broke off it would be a miracle parts didn't catch on the other gears causing the whole box to blow. To help check if a gear has broken the oil can be drained to see if there is metal in the oil or on parts on the drain plug magnet.
combinations of the tyre and other issues. have you checked the sprocket bolts and chain, (although if they were the issue it should manifest in the other gears as well),
Swing arm bolt. The nut end has been known to break off. It has happened to me and i don't know how long i had been riding it before i noticed.
The clicking on the front needs to be diagnosed, tighten the stem nut, maybe its time to redo the steering head bearings.
