Another wiring question

Chachiboy. You need to forget everything you know about the stock wiring when using the m-unit. The guy on YouTube probably did not use stock switches. I used stock switches with an m-unit. Let me know if you need info on how to connect stock switches to the m- unit and I will dig up the info. Are you using the m- unit blue?
 
I will take you up on that offer. I have studied multiple diagrams of stock wiring and I have blown too many main fuses. Any help or advice on how to wire stock switches will be appreciated!
 
For the tidiest possible wiring you could add the "Mo-Button" for all handlebar switch controlled functions.
https://motogadget.com/shop/en/m-unit-basic.html?tab=accessories
With this device mounted inside the handlebar, and connected to the handlebar switches, all input commands to the M-Unit are handled by a single wire (sort of "Can-Bus" style) Very neat if you like the wiring inside the handlebar.
As I am using an alloy LSL handlebar, I am a little bit apprehensive about drilling holes in it. But a steel handlebar that originally had holes for wiring in it should be fine.
 
Below is my wiring diagram using stock switches and an M-Unit original on a XS650SG (1980) bike.
The M-Unit horn out connects to one of the horns terminals. The other horn terminal connects to ground.
The M-Unit horn in connects to the left switch pink wire. The left switch black wire connects to ground.

wiring diagram black brat.jpg
 
The m-unit wiring diagram is generic and does reference any stock harness. I wired my bike from scratch. You may end up doing this since trying to use the stock harness will only cause headaches. Trying to take shortcuts by using the stock harness will not pay off.
 
It really helps create a neat wiring layout. On the current versions, the wires enter more from the top than from the sides, which actually may end up looking a bit messier IMHO.
 
Just looking at the wiring diagram it really really helps. What is the box above the turn signal box? Does it say hazard? I can't make out the writing. Also what is Condit box with white and ground?
 
Chachiboy said:
I noticed on diagram there is no oem starter relay before solenoid. It's not needed?
Click to expand...
No, I believe the M unit can power the soleniod directly (the starter solenoid is just a high capacity relay anyway). But then you lose that safety feature ggary was mentioning. (Protection from engaging starter when engine is running) If you also have a PMA, then that feature is most likely disabled anyway.
 
My bike was 100%: stock when bought so no pma upgrade. Should I do the starter relay as well as solenoid.?

This drawing is really helpful as I study it

I don't want hazards so I will ignore. But what is the config switch in the top right corner with a ground and white wire?
 
Chachiboy

If the bike had an M-Unit when you bought it it wasn't 100% stock. The M-Unit is not a drop-into-the-existing-electrical-system type of thing. It doesn't replace any one item in the stock electrical system. This is probably what the PO thought, which is why you are having issues with it. Like I suggested before you are better off starting your wiring from scratch with the M-Unit as your starting point. Study the manual until your eyes bleed and you will end up with a bike with no electrical woes. Either that or use the stock switches, relays, etc. and return the bike to the original electrical set up (and send the unused M-Unit to me :))

"Should I do the starter relay as well as solenoid.?" The m-unit manual indicates that it contains a built in starter relay. You need to install a starter solenoid. Can't say I know the difference between a starter relay and starter solenoid. I thought they referred to the same thing.

I added a config switch in case I wanted to reprogram the m-unit at anytime. Ignore it.
 
This is such great advice. I will start from scratch based on your diagram which really helps. It is inevitable that I have to do this because the current wire set up is so hacked up. Thanks for the info. I will revisit and kepp this thread updated in case I have more questions during process.
 
The starter solenoid contacts are rated for the high current of the starter. The starter relay puts a small load on the starter button and handles the current the solenoid draws.
 
Spent an hour today on it.... Peterg... Your diagram is awesome. I only have the starter button, kill switch to wire up. My wire colors are different from the diagram. I have a black, brown, red/white and a blue/white.

Diagram shows red/white and black to ground. Is that right.? Blue to munit?



Couple of things came up.

The headlight indicator refuses to light up and my stock switch has issues. I think the internal contact points are off. I have to play with the headlight switch for it to actually turn on. With the signal switch it doesn't shut off when lever is brought back to center. I have to switch it to the side blinking then back to center then it will shut off. I have another aftermarket switch I may put in.

Another weird one. Aftermarket taillight has a black blue and red. Black to ground and blue and red to output munit. When I press either brake, munit lights up - but no taillight. Any advice?

I will attempt starter/kill after I figure out tailight
 
Can you pair up the start/kill switch wires with a multimeter? You will have connectivity between a pair of wires when the starter button is pressed and connectivity between the other pair when the kill switch is on run.

For the brake wires. Are you connecting the blue and red to the m-unit brake out terminal? You also need to program the m-unit to work with this set up. Take a look at section 9.1 menu 2 in the manual.

The headlight and turn issues may be resolved by programming the unit.
 

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