Any tricks to getting the alternator rotor off without the tool?

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As the title says...

I was about to start my rebuild and realized there is an oil seal on the crank between the crank and the alternator rotor. I have a brand new set of seals and would like to replace that one, it wasn't leaking when the motor was together but I'd like to replace it anyway while it's apart. Yes I know there is a $10 or so tool that will pull it right off but I don't have that at the moment and a few local shops don't either. Yes I could order it but I was trying to get this thing rebuilt. So are there any tricks to get the rotor off without damaging it and without a rotor puller?
 
I have got a bolt that screws into the rotor and when it stops I just give it a tap with steel hammer then try and screw some more.A little at a time and you should get it,just need to "crack' it open.Turn tap,turn tap turn tap.
As for changing the seal I have always ever done this when the cases were seperated because of the lip in the seal that has to go into the recesses.
There are probably ways to change it withouit splitting cases where the lip is removed and therefore making it easier to slot in using a sealer but I don't know how this holds in the long term,maybe someone on here has done it with great success.Cheers.
 
1)A welder, a bolt, two nuts, and a pipe.
2)A welder, one nut, a pipe, and a slide hammer.
Make your own tool.
Or you could try one of those claw pullers, though not recomended.
 
The problem with using a 2- or 3-jaw puller is that the rotor is mounted on a pressed-in sleeve, which often stays on the crankshaft while the jaws pull the rotor off it. When that happens the rotor is history.
 
How does the rotor puller from mikes work? So you thread the big part on till it makes contact with the rotor. Then you run the smaller part in til it makes contact on the end of the bolt? After that part do you simply just turn them into each other. That is what I tryed with a friend and it just got really tight and didn't seem like it was doin anything. Any info?
 
You have to remove the nut that holds the rotor on first.
It can be on tight, after 30+ years a bit of rust can form.
I thread the out side part of the puller on, thread the inside piece in.
Hold the outer piece with one wrench, turn the inner piece with another. It should pop right off.
If it won't, when the inner bolt is tight a few taps with a hammer will help. It doesn't have to move far to come loose. The shaft it's on and the hole in the rotor are tapered.
 
I have a bunch o parts motors and several "good" motors with "bad" rotors. Time has come to do some rotor pulling. Is the mikes tool good? use it 10 times good? Are there any "better" ones out there? Anyone DIY a tool?
There is now an ebayer shilling rebuilt "rewound" rotors for $80.00 plus core plus 14.00 shipping plus I have to ship my rotor to him. Tim Parrott Enterprises Anyone use him, how did it go? Still chewing on the permanent magnet rotor idea. If I were to "deconstruct" a rotor with the goal of a diy rewind how would I do that? So many questions
 
While on the subject of pullers...I bought a banshee rotor puller from Spotingforless on ebag. Absolute junk maybe one time use! Seller didnt reply after email stating the bolt stripped out on second use with hand tools and nowhere near overtightening. I fixed it by welding a fine thread nut to the top of it, and using a matching bolt.
Just a heads up....
 
does anyone know if a standard nut can be purchased to match the thread on the rotor?
 
gggGary, if Mike's XS is selling the same rotor puller they sold 8 years ago, it's a sturdy tool that will stand up to many years of regular use.
 
I can't say for sure on the 650's but "most" jap bikes the rear axle thread matches the rotor thread. Thread the rear axle in and gently tap. Keep doing this and eventually it will come off. Keep in mind if you tap a magatized rotor to hard you can knock the magatism out of it and its worthless.
 
Thanks CPT137, but the threads are different (finer) and external on the rotor, 24mm x 1.00. Anyone used the mikesXS NEW rotor at 130.00? It makes free shipping and I need a puller anyways, seems better than a $100.00 plus rebuilt.
The rewind (thanks XJWMX) doesn't look TOO bad, and I have a lathe with double reduction gearing.
Just free thinking here would the stock stator work with a permanent magnet rotor if one could be made to match it?
 
Don't know what's what currently, but a couple of years back those "new" rotors from Mike's XS were causing a heap of grief. I'll take a quality American rewind (google Custom Rewind, they're top-notch) over a mass-produced Chiwanese reproduction any day.
 
gggGary said:
Just free thinking here would the stock stator work with a permanent magnet rotor if one could be made to match it?
Click to expand...

my preliminary response is yes. The way I understand it, and I might be wrong, is the coil in the stator cuts the field lines produced by the rotor and has a current induced in it by that. I think the axis of the poles of the rotor is parallel with the crankshaft. You'd mainly need to measure the magnetic field strength in the vicinity of the stator coil and duplicate that with a permanent magnet. It would take a strong magnet, if you can judge by the pull it makes when you do the feeler gauge test.
 
I think Kev's turbo write up on the austrailian site talks about replacing the stator windings with windings from a car altenator and he built an aluminum rotor with magnets in it. He guesses output to be around 40 amps.
 

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