Anything stopping me from making a battery?

TheRealSpinner

TheRealSpinner

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Like I said, is there anything stopping me from making my own battery? Can't I just take 6 C or D sized rechargeable batteries, solder them together in series, and make a 12V battery? Should I use 7 so it makes a 13.5V?

I've got a '71, it's "kick, only", so I don't need a lot of cranking amps. And, I want to use a small fire extinguisher as a container for the electrics. I figure I can make a cylindrical battery and fit the rest of the electrical in there as well.

You think that'd be enough? It seems like it'd be easy enough to do.
 
Well, doable but with some cautions. First of all, a typical rechargeable cell is 1.2 Volts and you will need enough of them to come up with 12.5 Volts so 12.5/1.2 = 10.4 cells. D size cells have an Amp hour rating of 2.5, so you would need to somehow reduce the charging current to less than an Amp else you will fry the cells. Possible a diode / resistor in parallel would do the trick.

While they are charging, they will get hot, so containing them in a metal tube would not be a good idea unless you ventilated the tube. (Think 787...:eek:)

Some battery management would be a good idea as well to keep the battery of cells from discharging below 10.5 Volts while stopped at a light, like maybe a relay operated by the neutral switch to turn off the headlight when stopped at a light and trickle charging them every night.

But, in a basic answer to your question, yes, it can be done.
 
You could potentially make something work with rechargeable cells, but why would you? You'll have a month of labor into trying to get it all to work by the time you're done, and then, in spite of your best efforts, it might burn your bike! Why not use one of the ultra-compact cells that are available? I'll bet you can find something suitable to fit.
 
After watching the volt meter on the 77 for a few hours yesterday. I think if you are going to go with an alternative battery or really any extended use of an early bike, a more modern voltage regulator is de rigueur. Can anyone tell me if a "mosfet" chip set voltage regulator rectifier has advantages over an OEM type solid state regulator?
 
I ,would like to have a smarter guy's opinion can a "modern" regulator be adapted to the electromagnet rotor XS? What's involved?
 
gggGary, I have mounted a more modern reg/reg on my 75. I used a reg from a 75 Doge Dart. Any engine, they all used the same reg. Got parts from Radio shack for rec. Works very well east to wire in Just need the three nylon screw mod.
The 80 up xs's used a solid state reg/rec on the electromagnet rotor. They just rewired the brushes so one doesn't ground. Sounds a lot like the three screw mod for the 70-79 models.
You can find 3 phase rectifiers on Ebay for about half the price of Radio Shack parts. I have got some to experement with.
You can also find the regulator that fits inside of Chrysler alternators. They use brushes like our XS650's. I may get one to experment with. I just haven't gotten them yet.
I thought if I coukld get the regs cheap enough and they worked I could assemble them to some aluminum plates I have, wire them to be a straight plug in for the 80 up models and with the nylon screws for the 70-79 models.
Sell them as a kit maybe, let people assemble them.
We'll see.
Leo
 
Just shopping Ebay, the reg I'm using on my 75 they list at $9.90 free shipping. Connectors that plug right into them $7.37 free shipping.
The 3 pase rec 20 amp is $3.90 free shipping. So for a total of $21.17 you can build a modern rec/rec that will work great, or save the $7.37 and use bullit connectors.
That's $13.80. To replace your old mechanical reg and selinium rect with new parts that will keep your battery charged better than it did new.
Or on the 80 up models Not spend $100 to do the same.
Leo
 
^ I think an easy to assemble kit with all the metalwork done and with good instructions and that just bolts on is a good idea. You might be able to find the connector at Mouser Electronics. Try to make something that bolts onto as many old bikes as possible. But having said that, I'm perfectly happy with my ancient original reg/rect. Get Pete's Pamco list and ask them all if they want a reg/rect.

Actually Mouser might have a battery that would suit the op's purpose of fitting it into a small cylinder. Maybe two smaller in parallel to get the elongated form factor :) I know they have had tiny lead/acid batteries.
 
Gary;

I think you have to careful not to confuse rec/regs for PMA alternators, with rec/regs for electro-magnet alternators.

The so called "modern rec/regs" (and also the Mosfet type) I believe are only for PMA types. The PMA produces full AC voltage (varies with rpm) all the time and they control the DC output voltage by shunting (shorting) the extra current to ground using an SCR of some type.

XS650 stock alternators can control the AC output voltage (varies with rpm) by changing the rotor current. As the AC voltage is controlled, the DC output from the rectifier is also controlled.

The electro-magnet alternator only produces the electricity that is required by the load. On the other hand, the PMA knows nothing about the load, but instead generates full current all the time and the extra current,not needed by the load, is converted to heat in the rec/reg heat sink cooling fins.

Gary, if you're talking about 1970 to 79 stock charging system, it would be hard to do better than using something similar to the VR-115 regulator. It produces no heat and controls the bike's voltage at 14 to 14.2 volts.
 
What is "Mouser"?

From everything you all have posted, I don't think on gonna try to build my own. I guess I'll just start looking for small batteries.
 
In addition to "Mouser electronics", you can also look at battery options from "Digikey". But, I believe it's best to select something designed for bikes, to handle the current surges, heat and vibration. Take a look at the "Ballistic" offerings...
 
Mouser electronics is one of the most diverse suppliers in the United States for electrical and electronic equipment and components. Eastern Beaver is another good resource for electrical parts, widely praised for their electrical connectors.
 
maybe look at using NiCad batteries from RC cars and stuff. You could possibly just buy 2 battery packs and run them in series, but that would get you in the 14 volt range. Or why not a cordless tool battery , They have 12 volt ones. Older cam corder batteries? Laptop batteriesd. My son usesw Laptop power supplies to power is RC chargers.
 

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