Are their any good vibrations?

About the bar material. At the time I filled the clubman bars with cement (because they have acute bends that prevent anything other than liquid) I also filled a small plastic pill vile with the cement mixture. I wanted to see if it set up hard in the absence of air. Today about 2 weeks after filling the bars I cut open the vile and the cement was stiff but still plastic.

I forgot to mention that I went fiom a stock rear sprocket to a 32. That worked some to shift my vibration point, still driveable in traffic stop and go.

Was looking at a clip on extension for my 1/4 café fairing. I like the look of it and with clubman bars makes me feel 16 again, Anyone try the clip on extender to shed a little more wind up and over?
 
...I shall devise a plan to ensure the weights are not vibrating free in the handlebars and leaking dust - A science project for tonight!

Paul, here's an idea.
Cut the lead weights into 1"-2" pieces.
Bore and tap 1/4"-20 into one piece.
Bore 1/4" holes in the rest.
Chamfer the edges.
Assemble them with a long 1/4"-20 bolt,
Appropriate size o-rings between each piece.
Slide into handlebar, tighten bolt so o-rings compress/grip the inner wall.

Need a pic?
 
Last night in a moment of boredom I melted some Lead on the stove in a bean can and cast some 18mm diameter bars. I trued them up on the lathe (interesting) and cut grooves at each end to take o-rings for a tight fit:
Lead.JPG
On the end of each I drilled a 6.5mm hole 15mm deep then drilled a 1.5mm hole through the diameter 10mm up from the end and inserted a pin. This will allow me, or the next owner, to hook them out if necessary. They fit nice and snug. Will appreciate them a little later to day - 19 Celsius and clear sky.

TM, I am considering your idea to add extra weight to each when I get some more Lead.

Note: Oh, didn't I mention that a fire damaged XV1000 followed me home the other day?
 
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This is a cool idea Paul. It’s hard t be quantitative, but in general, adding mass will move the resonant frequency down so it should be smoother at higher RPMs.

It’ll be interesting to see how it works.

Question - where did you get the lead?
 
MaxPete, I had a roll of it left over from some building work years ago. It is used to seal around chimneys and where a roof extention meets a vertical wall. It is harder to get now due to environmental issues. Several years ago its scrap value went very high and people would strip the old church roofs at night. I still have a roll of Lead but do not want to touch it because it is my hammer for driving fork seals in. It is rolled up with a 35mm core hole and being soft will not scratch the chrome, but having a bit of weight it really does a good hammering job.
 
bar ends.jpg


Sato racing makes some nice looking bar end weights. I unfortunately can't convince myself that $65 is a reasonable price for bar ends. The bar end itself looks like a normal aftermarket bar end with tapered tangs, but instead of the normal small steel wedge, they have long brass rods with one end tapered in and threaded. They'd be easy as could be to make if you have a lathe, they'd be reasonably easy to make if you clamp a drill into a vice as a makeshift lathe, and can drill the concentric hole in the end and tap it. I'd like to try someday, just haven't had the time to try.
 
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