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I believe they do make a dry cell battery (sealed) If you have a Car Quest auto shop around there, just bought the acid one for 28.00, I know they carry the dry cell batteries too.
I have a Ballistic 8 cell battery in my 75. 275 cranking amps , about half the size and weighs 1.7 pounds.
It's a bit expensive but worth it.
A lot of people like the Shoria battery too.
Lots of AGM batteries out there. Lead acid absorbed into fiberglass mats, sealed case no spillage.
Leo
I too had the evo ballistic battery 8 cell in my bike but I have been having some problems with it and had to send it back to the manufacture. Hopefully they warranty it, but in the mean time I am going to try an antigravity 8 cell lithium battery, very similar to the evo battery. I also have a cheap 30 dollar gel battery that I bought on amazon that does a great job as a stand in battery on my bike till my new one gets here. It all depends on what you are looking for. If the bike is stock then a gel battery will work just fine for you. If you are looking for a small compact, weight savings battery then the evo may work, or the shorai or antigravity lithium batteries. They are expensive as stated though.
I do like the way sealed batteries perform, holding a good, near full charge for long periods of time, even if left unused. What I don't like about them is the way they go bad when they do. They give no warning, working fine one minute, crapped out the next. With an old fashion wet cell, you get some advance warning. You notice after a few years that the bike cranks slower, and eventually slower and slower until it won't at all. You can usually squeeze another month or even several out of it but you know it's time to start shopping for a new battery.
I had 2 previous wet cells in my 650, getting 4 or 5 years out of each. I was going to get another but the prices have risen so much, this sealed one really didn't cost any more so I went with it.
good to know. I am torn between the cheapskate in me for the "chrome" battery, and other side of me wondering if 10 additional CCA will help my new starter gear I just replaced......
just noticed they have 18 month warranty too...not too bad.
In a strange sort of way, it may be better to have a battery that craps out suddenly in a 650 - weak batteries left in place can overstress and wreck some other part of the charging system. The downside, of course, is that it may not crap out in the garage!
Actually I have a question. It's a rechargeable battery. ..does that mean I can put it on a charger to reuse battery. Or is rechargeable batteries just a temporary fix..if it's a dumb question...my bad..I have no knowledge on this lol
Well, you can try it. If the battery itself hasn't crapped out and gone bad, it may charge back up and be OK. How did it die? Short somewhere drain it? Leave the key on? If you just inadvertently drained it some how, a recharge may bring it back. If a cell went bad, it won't take or hold a charge, but you've got nothing to lose by trying.
Not sure how it drained. ..I turn key off and bar switch off everytime not in use..afraid to mess up pamco. I tried electric start yesterday and it just slowly died. I then kicked it over. first kick started while it was idling I checked battery and it was at 11.something. ..so I rode it a few blocks but noticed when using signals they flashed real slow so back home for me.
just put it on charger...at what point should I take it off? Also I'm on the right setting on multimeter right? And when it is fully charged to determine if it's holding is that by running the bike for awhile and taking a reading again? All new to me sorry for all the questions
Have you checked the charging system to make sure it still is? My experience with these sealed batteries is they usually hold a good near full charge right up until the day they die. I haven't had any get gradually weaker like a wet cell, warning me they're on their way out. They seem to work fine with full power right up to the moment they die.
If you're using a small output charger (which you should be), it will probably take 4 to 6 hours. Testing is best done by putting it back in the bike and trying it. It may measure good voltage with your meter but that's with no load on it. Putting it under a load is the true test and trying it in the bike is the easiest way for the home mechanic to do that. They do make battery load testers but I don't know anyone who actually owns one.