Bent fin on head fix?

[rsor]

Those are some bad tank dents, but take a look at these!

 

[robinc]

Those are some bad tank dents, but take a look at these!

What'd you use there rsor? A slide hammer and some epoxy?

 

[cra-z1]

There are people out there who could build that area back up when it breaks off.

 

[rsor]

I tried the epoxy and slide hammer, studs just popped off the tank.

Tacked the studs on, hammered the dents out, cleaned the tacks up and soldered over top of the spots here I had tacked the studs on.

 

[MrBultaco]

Thanks for the info 2M. I seem to remember someone building up a broken fin by Tig welding layers and layers on an early Triumph he was restoring. It was on a TV program years ago, I think.
Tank is destined for the re-cycler.

 

[xjwmx]

Tank is destined for the re-cycler.

If that pic is the worst of it, you might be surprised what a body man could do with it. So it's still worth something. Might be worth a lot to those rat bike people. Fong Bros. might give you more than new price.

 

[MrBultaco]

If that pic is the worst of it, you might be surprised what a body man could do with it. So it's still worth something. Might be worth a lot to those rat bike people. Fong Bros. might give you more than new price.

Thanks xjwmx, I started a conversation with them (found them here on the forum).

 

[Mailman]

Thanks xjwmx, I started a conversation with them (found them here on the forum).

Yeah I for sure wouldn’t junk it. Have you ever seen the prices that dented up tanks fetch on eBay? It’s frankly amazing.

 

[MrBultaco]

Hey Bob, the tank is very bad...inside and out, so if anyone wants it for shipping, it's theirs.
(I know, this should go on classified)
EDIT: the Fong Bros didn't want it.

 

[JRay77]

Check out Aluminium solders or low temperature brazing. You will see them on Ebay and they do not require flux. Easier to do if the head is off. It will be important to choose the correct melting point i.e. not to high to avoid head warping and not to low so it drops off on a hot day. Peanut may have some advice here as he has used these products on his Lambretta and will know if it is feasible. Also search Youtube for demos of low temperature aluminium brazing:

You are right on. I just took a short class on this at Hobart Institute of Welding. Oxy Acetylene. With filler metal or without. Glad I skimmed thru this thread.

 

[JRay77]

My thing with gas tanks is powder coating them. Wet paint just isn't tough enough. Obviously can't powder over anything but metal. I tried USC all metal body filler but it's aluminum. So with heat it expands and contracts leaving the finish wavy. Next I'll look into lead. Powder cures at 400 degrees... Where does lead start to liquid? Humm... I've ruined 4 tanks...not a healthy learning curb. Haha

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

... Powder cures at 400 degrees... Where does lead start to liquid? Humm... I've ruined 4 tanks...not a healthy learning curb. Haha

Would like to find out more about the gas cap attachment fixtures and tank fillneck, how are they attached? Temperature sensitive?

 

[59Tebo]

Lead melts @ 621.4* F. That's pure lead. If you use wheel weights, they contain tin (and a couple other metals) and melt slightly higher, Still well above the temperatures of powder coating. Lead was the original "Bondo". Just use the proper safety precautions. Capt. Obvious reminds you: "lead is toxic".

 

[JRay77]

I googled lead melting today. I have a tank all smashed to shit I'll try this on when I get time. Thanks guys! As always interesting convos. Start out with fins and make a left turn into gas tanks. Lol. Did not know or think about removing fins. Interesting. Got to thinking, I have a guy at work makes his own fishing lures. Might hang out with him to see where he gets his lead for sinkers, forms, process and whatnot. Plus while I'm at it, make a fixture for clutch/throttle cable ends.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

JRay, look up "linotype lead".
In the old daze, when cables were just steel, could easily solder brass ends on those. Later, when they went to stainless cables, solder doesn't work well with those. Don't know how modern cable ends stick to that...

 

[Paul Sutton]

For those who want to solder stainless steel the flux to use is common old fashion phosphoric acid - also known as orthophosphoric acid. I have used 60% and 90% in the past.

I once soldered a front brake cable for my old Puch R125. When I tested it the cable pulled straight out. I have seen several videos and TV programmes where they solder brake cables - So what did I do wrong??

 

[JRay77]

Fusing metal together can be tricky. I've been working with manganese lately. Sandblasting equipment. Highly abrasive resistant. This can only be welded with stainless wire/rod. Anyway what's everyone's thoughts on Iron Pony? Huge store, all the stuff but yet most times I just leave with a sticker, some gloves, bullshit. Haha! No vintage parts at the store I visit, Anyway, I did find one of those universal cable kits. Little brass ferrules and ends. Thought " Hell Yeah! Emergency roadside kit." Anyway pissing around one day tried to solder one on. Stainless, explains why that effin thing came off. Haha My cable housing are usually ok. Just the steel cable itself gets frayed. I can buy that at almost any hardware. I get this lead thing down, make a fixture and it's on!