Bent oil pump shaft

Iowa Mark

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I am to the point of my build to start the motor, set the timing, sync the carbs, and see if I need to grind anything off and relocate it. The motor has always seemed to turn over stiffer than I thought it should. And the kick starter wouldn't always want to engage until half way through the stroke. Maybe it's been just sitting for a while, I thought. Turn on the gas, click the choke, turn on the key, bring it up on compression and give it a kick. CHUFF and an immediate kickback that about broke my foot when it swung the kick back at my arch! Limped around the yard for 20 minutes cussing and trying to decide if at my advanced age the electric start should be put back on the bike. Well, that bike wasn't going to beat me this close to the end. Jumped up on the kick with a vengeance and OUCH! Come back out to the bike a while later and start checking the setting for the Pamco that came on the engine when I got it, Check the valves again to see if they rock from intake to exhaust at TDC. Finally decide to open the clutch side up. Find out the kick start problem is the "onion shaped" spring clip is not in the relief in the case, but floating around not letting the gear disengage from the engine. I'm feeling pretty satisfied as I'm trying to remember how I took all the springs and washers off the shaft when I happen to look over and see the filings and chewed up look of my tach drive gear. Closer inspection shows that the oil pump gear that drives the tach is way crooked. Someone has been turning this motor over without the little case insert to hold the tach drive shaft down and engaged. Looks like I will be replacing an oil pump shaft and gear at the very least. At least I wasn't out on the highway and lost an oil pump. I'm starting to wonder about this budget motor I bought to avoid a full-on rebuild to the motor I got the bike with. :yikes:
 
The electric start is a good thing. The kick starter was a poor design right out of the factory. The small round peg with the fixed rubber looks unobtrusive when folded in but a joke when kick starting. The main reason it was designed my guess. The Harley design wide petal that rotates when you kick it works better and is geared better. It would be better to remove the kicker to save weight than the starter my opinion. Sorry to hear about the oil pump. Good thing you found it. Some of the P.O. should have been flogged. :thumbsup:
 
Iowa Mark;

Skull is saying, you need to break up the long text into several paragraphs. I find it hard to read as well. When written that way, many people just stop reading half way through. Not everyone is an A+ english student, but you will get better response if your questions are easy to read.
 
Iowa Mark;

Skull is saying, you need to break up the long text into several paragraphs. I find it hard to read as well. When written that way, many people just stop reading half way through. Not everyone is an A+ english student, but you will get better response if your questions are easy to read.

I understand what Skull was saying. Mostly I was just venting about the bike. I didn't even realize I'd gotten so long winded until after I hit submit.:doh:
 
That serious of a back kick means more than the oil pump shaft has issues....
What kind of ignition are you running. I have no problems with the kicker on a well sorted bike even one with high compression 750 pistons cam and big carbs. When something ISN'T right the kicker sucks
 
That serious of a back kick means more than the oil pump shaft has issues....
What kind of ignition are you running. I have no problems with the kicker on a well sorted bike even one with high compression 750 pistons cam and big carbs. When something ISN'T right the kicker sucks

GGGary, The deal with the kicker was that the spring clip that ensures that the gear spirals into the engine gear was not in it's keeper slot and allowed to rotate with the shaft. That also meant the gear didn't disengage completely when the kick lever was down. Also, pictures of the layering of washers, spacers, and the spool were not how I found it when I opened it up. My clue should have been when I couldn't get the kick to engage at the top of the stroke ever. At least that's what it looks like.
 
The E-start engages the teeth on the crank. The kick start uses gears in the tranny to turn the engine through the clutch.
On the E-start they clip was changed in mid 75 I think it was, They made the clip out of heavier gauge wire, This new clip would not fit in the notch the old one fit in so it was moved over to beside the notch.
Leo
 
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