Lluber
Noob
Also, here is what My brushes are looking like.
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Lluber
Noob
so, I pulled the right brush. seemed like the probe wasn't long enough to make contact to the inner ring. Im assuming that ring is the same ring I can access from the other open sections around the brush holder. I put my red probe on the section of inner ring I was able to see and make contact with and placed the other probe on the metal part that sits above the ring. The readings were all over the place. it would jump from the 90's down to 6, then to 60's then drop.. Is this what it should be doing or should there be a constant level Im looking for? I also measured my brushes and from where the spring meets it to where the brush ends its exactly 1/2 inch.
Those brushes look good. It might be easier to get to the slip rings if you remove the brush holder.
The right brush is the inner brush, closer to the center, this matches the inner ring, the one you can't see. The left outer brush matches the out ring, the one you see.
Trying to reach the slip ring through the brush holder is tough, that may be why your readings bounce around.
You might try taking a paper clip and straightening it out and wrapping one end around your probes to extend them.
Leo
The right brush is the inner brush, closer to the center, this matches the inner ring, the one you can't see. The left outer brush matches the out ring, the one you see.
Trying to reach the slip ring through the brush holder is tough, that may be why your readings bounce around.
You might try taking a paper clip and straightening it out and wrapping one end around your probes to extend them.
Leo
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Lluber
Noob
ahh, good to know. Ill try that out later today.. XSLeo what should I be getting as a reading when I make contact with that inner ring? If im not able to get it to work via the paper clip method I'll take off the brush holder and report back with readings.
Lluber
Noob
Last night I was able to rig up some metal wire around one of the probes and it extended it to reach the inner ring. Again the readings were jumping around.. but seemed to be in the 60.0-90.0 range
That reading is trash.
Remove the stator(it's two screws) so you can get your probes a good purchase.
A good reading should be 5-6 ohms. Lower than 5 you are working on borrowed time.
sidebar I've never seen brushes wear that evenly.
Do they wiggle side to side in the holder? You can check from the inside of the stator while it is off.
Remove the stator(it's two screws) so you can get your probes a good purchase.
A good reading should be 5-6 ohms. Lower than 5 you are working on borrowed time.
sidebar I've never seen brushes wear that evenly.
Do they wiggle side to side in the holder? You can check from the inside of the stator while it is off.
Lluber
Noob
pulled the holder for the brushes. I was able to get my probes on the inner ring with good contact. Same results as before readings were all over the place.
Lluber
Noob
brushes dont seem to wiggle while they are in the holder. Removing the stator. Looked like I was going to have to take off my shifter and peg. Wasn't in the mood to get into all that tonight. Im assuming I need to pull off the left engine cover/case to remove the stator?
Dennis
XS650 Addict
yes but its all pretty easy
Like you said
you have to pull the shifter and foot peg is all
Like you said
you have to pull the shifter and foot peg is all
Lluber
Noob
thats what I figured.. again, Ill report back once I get it pulled and test the ohms. thanks again everyone!
Just watch for the ball bearing that can fall out of the clutch adjuster when you pull the cover.
The high fluctuating readings can be from the slip rings being dirty. Use a very fine sandpaper, 400 grit or finer to lightly sand the rings. An electrical contact cleaner to remove the dust from sanding.
When you reinstall the brush holder, do it before you replace the stator. Some screws are longer than others, look at the stator from the inside to be sure no screws protrude too far out. If any do rearrange them so none do. If they stick out too far they can contact the rotor. Not a good thing.
As others have said 5 ohms is ideal, it can be as low as 4 and as high as 7 and still be ok. The closer to 5 the better.
Leo
The high fluctuating readings can be from the slip rings being dirty. Use a very fine sandpaper, 400 grit or finer to lightly sand the rings. An electrical contact cleaner to remove the dust from sanding.
When you reinstall the brush holder, do it before you replace the stator. Some screws are longer than others, look at the stator from the inside to be sure no screws protrude too far out. If any do rearrange them so none do. If they stick out too far they can contact the rotor. Not a good thing.
As others have said 5 ohms is ideal, it can be as low as 4 and as high as 7 and still be ok. The closer to 5 the better.
Leo
leodr
XS650 Enthusiast
Hey,So, my 83 650 seems to be having some battery issues or recharging issues or something along those lines. Bought the bike in march PO told me he had put in a new battery as well as new tires.
The problem: Bike starts and runs (I typically kick start it because my electric start only seems to work when the bike has been warmed up Maybe that bit will help with what the bigger problem is here). So I took her for a ride.. got about 1-2 miles from my shop and the bike shut off. I put it in neutral, kick it....nothing. Green neutral light is on but a little dim, headlight is on but also kinda dim. Push it until im nice and sweaty and I'll press the start button (starter is clicking but bike wont start) kick it and it starts up, let it idle for a min.. I put it in first, move about 100 feet and it dies. I gave up on bothering trying to ride her back, I pushed it to my shop, kicked it, it started. She idled for a few min and sounded ok literally as soon as I tapped the brake lever bike shut off. I also noticed while It was idling in my garage the headlight seemed to fade then come back as I would rev the throttle.
This happened about 2 weeks ago and I put her on my tender charger and that seemed to fix it. Since then I've only taken her out once (20 mile ride) which taught me how to change a tire as well as what running out of gas on the highway is like
I'm sure this has been discussed but I wasn't able to find it. Seems like I need to check the water levels in my battery (I'll do that tonight) and add distilled water if its low. IF thats not the problem what do I begin checking testing next?
Thanks.
Today I had this problem and I discovered that my battery terminals were a little loose and also the gasoline tank was very low and maybe poor or water in it.. perhaps it is wise to never go to low on gas in tank. After tightening battery leads and getting fill up with 91 octane and battery is fullly charged,it is running fine. Check 1. battery power at least 12v, battery terminal connections (ground in particular ... tight since vibrations loosen bolts, gas (use 91).
/Leo
Lluber
Noob
Just got back from pulling the cover and getting a good reading off the rotor. I lightly sanded it down with 600 grit, wiped clean and tested. Ohms coming back at less the 1.0 so I think its my rotor. So the question to you more experienced guys out there. Do I just replace the rotor or do I spring for Hughs PMA kit?
Lluber
Noob
new rotor, or PMA kit. Anyone?
Do yourself a favor.
Send your rotor to Custom Rewind for fixin.
Do not buy the "New" rotor of e-bay.
Forget PMA's. Forget Petes ignition.
For now just get your bike running and enjoy.
Send your rotor to Custom Rewind for fixin.
Do not buy the "New" rotor of e-bay.
Forget PMA's. Forget Petes ignition.
For now just get your bike running and enjoy.
Lluber
Noob
ok, theres a place down the street from my house that might be able to do this. Going to talk to them today to see if they have experience rewinding motorcycle rotors. If not looks like I'll be sending the rotor out to customrewind.. Any Idea how much time a rewing gets me @weekendrider? or could this problem come back soon?
Im currently in the process of upgrading a bunch of other things on my bike. I dont have a immediate need to ride and wrench. So if a rotor rewind is a temporary fix I'd rather take the time and do it now and not have to worry about it later.
Im currently in the process of upgrading a bunch of other things on my bike. I dont have a immediate need to ride and wrench. So if a rotor rewind is a temporary fix I'd rather take the time and do it now and not have to worry about it later.
Anything mechanical has a "lifetime" but with care a rewind should last 25-40 years?
Lluber
Noob
that sounds long enough.. thanks
wesleyonoel
XS650 Addict
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Just looked at the odometer on my '73 TX - 15,485 miles. Being a product of the Public Education system, you might want to check my math but figure the scooter is nearly 40 years old. Bone stock original equipment throughout the entire electrical system - up to and including the charging components. Might be looking at changing brushes soon (maintenance) but otherwise no sign of system trouble. Intent is to maintain the motorcycle in as close to stock conformation as possible so would opt to rewind/repair rather than replace. Might consider "upgrades" in a situation where period correctness isn't important. But for now, and on this particular scooter, the goal is to keep 'er stock!....... Wesley
Lluber
Noob
just called the custom rewind guys (guy) he sounds super nice, and even offered to ship me a rotor puller to get my rotor out and send back when I send my rotor in to be repaired. The one thing he did mention was that hes had some time to work on rebuilding these rotors and that he usually gets a reading around 4.5ohms and its not 5-5.5 like the manual says. Not sure if that makes all that much of a difference or not.
