Bike not starting!

securetech22

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Alright my kickstart is not working and now my electrical start is not working. I was using the electrical start an then I changed from the ram horns to clip ons and thought I would just delete the switches. I got a kill switch that works from a dirt bike, and the brake lights work fine. Now going to start the bike and the aftermarket electrical start is not working. I have a 1981 yamaha xs650. Any suggestions?:banghead:
 
My suggestion--which is not what ya wanna hear, probably--make the kick starter work. Electric starter is a luxury. Mostly, the fat & lazy use it, however, those with VERY high compression are forgiven.
 
My first thought is that the e-start is not getting grounded through the new bars.. or it is not hooked up correctly.

Have you probed the in/outputs of the aftermarket switch with a multimeter to determine whether or not the switch is doing what you think it does (short to ground when pulled)?
 
im with the skunk on the earth thing. you fat lazy bastard lol

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Yes, FLBs unite !!! I agree on the ground thing. Front forks are not a good ground source. They connect to the frame through greased up bearings so the ground connection is intermittent at best. There are ground wires in the headlight bucket that run back to the frame. You need to connect with one of those. As far as the kick start goes, it's probably a matter of improper assembly. Many seem to struggle with that, lol.
 
By aftermarket electric start I assume you mean you have a key switch that has a start position. If so the key switch sends power out to the starter relay.
On your bike the starter relay gets power from the red/white wire and the blue/white wire gets grounded by the start button.
If you just hooked the wire from the key switch start position to the blue/white wire, you are trying to send power both ways through the relay, that won't work. The relay needs one power, one ground. Not two power.
If you have the key switch with a start position run the wire to the red/white on the relay, ground the blue/white.
Oh the kick start won't work if you have a misadjusted clutch. The kick start uses the clutch to turn the engine, if you adjust it too tight, it slips and won't turn the engine.
The electric start hooks to the crank and turns it directly.
Leo
 
On the FLB theory, not only FLB's use the electric leg, how about an injured rider.
I find it very handy if the bike stalls in the middle of the intersection and you can just pull the clutch and push the button. The life you save may be your own.
Leo
 
I use my electric start (on all my bikes) as a gauge for my state of tune. Quick, easy starts hot or cold are what I want to see. Cranking and cranking and cranking indicates a problem of some sort.

I met an FLB with a 650 at a vintage day one of the local shops puts on. It was a '75 or '76, painted bright yellow, and all "fixed up" in his eyes. When he went to leave, that bike cranked and cranked and cranked. When it finally started, it was rattling like a tin can half full of nuts and bolts. Over the racket he shouted it needs a valve adjustment ..... indeed ..... FLB.
 
On the FLB theory, not only FLB's use the electric leg, how about an injured rider.
I find it very handy if the bike stalls in the middle of the intersection and you can just pull the clutch and push the button. The life you save may be your own.
Leo

Yep. I bypassed the nuetral safety switch on my '83....very handy in those quick situations.
 
By aftermarket electric start I assume you mean you have a key switch that has a start position. If so the key switch sends power out to the starter relay.
On your bike the starter relay gets power from the red/white wire and the blue/white wire gets grounded by the start button.
If you just hooked the wire from the key switch start position to the blue/white wire, you are trying to send power both ways through the relay, that won't work. The relay needs one power, one ground. Not two power.
If you have the key switch with a start position run the wire to the red/white on the relay, ground the blue/white.
Oh the kick start won't work if you have a misadjusted clutch. The kick start uses the clutch to turn the engine, if you adjust it too tight, it slips and won't turn the engine.
The electric start hooks to the crank and turns it directly.
Leo

Very well done and appreciated explanation Leo.....Thanks, Blue :bow2:
 
I've had my bike on the road 4 days, first two it started 2nd or 3rd kick or by electric start albeit tired sounding. Since I lubed my clutch cable, it's been a bitch to start cold, 50 times I guess. I have also played with the idle screw but I think Leo might be on the money for my problem so will try loosening that off in the morning and hope for the best.
 
I've had my bike on the road 4 days, first two it started 2nd or 3rd kick or by electric start albeit tired sounding. Since I lubed my clutch cable, it's been a bitch to start cold, 50 times I guess. I have also played with the idle screw but I think Leo might be on the money for my problem so will try loosening that off in the morning and hope for the best.

The electric starter should not be tired sounding. It means your battery is not fully charged, or could also be corrosion on the cable going to the starter motor.

Battery not charging.............look at the brushes to see if they are worn down to short.

These bikes normally start on the first kick, cold or warm engine. Low battery voltage possibly.
 
I loosened the clutch cable off and started like a dream. For a short while anyway, now another problem. I think I'm not getting compression for kick start and when I do finally get it running it's rough as hell, jerky, backfires, and cuts out first chance it gets at a junction
 
With the engine off, try the horn and headlight. If either's weak, you need a battery or battery charge. If they're good, check all the simple things: condition/gap of your plugs, fuel flow from tank (have the carbs been overhauled?), engine timing, etc. What type of petrol have you got in the tank (these bikes run best on high octane fuel)?
 
My 81 electric kick only bob cuts out. It won't restart unless I hit the kill switch which results in a combustion in the exhaust pipe. The bike will then restart? Cam chain off?
 
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