building my first monoshock

after a few minutes of careful walking on thin ice kind of cuts i manage to get that rotor completly out:thumbsup:now ,new seals, get the starter parts out fill the starter hole and close that case for good.thank god all the pinions were in working order.
 
ok im back on the build,this is a view of the bike after droping it a few inches because i couldnt reach the floor im 5'6
 

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heres a view of the tachometer and speedometer kinda vintage racing look .hard getting the parts i want for this build and the money is low on these days:shrug:,but is gonna be on the streets for sure .
 

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today i manage to build the tachometer and odometer mounts and replace the original clamp bolts with stainless steel ones ,heres a photo how is gonna look when you are on the bike
 

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today i fit the engine into the frame,i drop the suspension a few inches so i can get both feet on the ground .seems like im not gonna need chain rubbers after all,the chain runs 1/4 above the swingarm.the pma just arrives,i just need money for the pamco and some time to port the engine and a few other tricks:D
 

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too much work on my hands these days,you can call me cheap but there's no way im paying 45 bucks for generic foot pegs.went to a bicycle shop grab a pair of bmx awesome public monument grinders and start working on them.kinda nice for 10 bucks,aluminum ,great grip and strong.maybe some paint remover .
 

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well s been a while ,tried to find fenders ,nothing....so fiberglass
 

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heres the bike almost finished,is gonna look better if i take a week off to paint it,but i know is not gonna happen ,maybe in january:shrug:
 

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Those shocks are valved and sprung to use a linkage system. The linkage system serves a few purposes... one is to make the position of the shock correct.

They're not designed to work laying flat out. (This applies to most jap shocks. Some bikes are different though...Buells, for example, ARE designed that way on certain models).

If you look at yours it will move in an arc in compression pivoting at the front and lay more parallel to the ground. This is going to be problematic in terms of performance.

Secondly, they give a mechanical advantage so that the compression force from the movement of the arm is translated via linkages to a correct ratio at the shock.

It won't be impossible to ride as is, but it won't handle nearly as well as it could.

There's a lot of articles on direct mounting like this at:

http://www.customfighters.com

The problems people have aren't so much from bad alignment as they are from using a shock that's not designed for direct setup.

You could try finding a different spring to set it up for direct input, or you could do what most guys do and just get a shock from a bike that is already set up that way. Try the FZ6R setup.
 
Really? Been ridden hard for months,a few bumps I didnt see ,a few holes on the street ,even dare to jump a little on bridges ,didnt notice anything unusual on it for now.weird stuff ah
 
No one said you won't be able to ride it...but the simple engineering point remains...it's never going to handle as well as it could with it setup with a nixed linkage.
 
Why change something that is already working well.I build it so is kind of easy to change it f it wasnt performing like it should.thanks for the heads up buddy.
 
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