Cant find the info

Steven Simpson

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Hey guys.

Having some wiring issues. Everything is wired the way I thought it to be so here is my issue.

1980 XS650 XS Charge PMA with battery (Kick and electric)

So I have everything wired (battery to 20 AMP to switch that powers the REG/Rect, lights, starter button, coil)

Everything seems to be good and have the correct voltage of power too the coil.

I CANT FIND SPARK. I did new wires and plugs as well.

Any thing I can troubleshoot more?
 
XScharge ignition I can take photos later today.

Is my kill switch open? the only "switch wired in is the key which turns the power on to the coil. maybe I am missing something.

Battery is charged!
 
So you have the cam driven electronic ignition thats sold with the XS Charge PMA charging system?
200-2927-xs-charge-xs650-gen-ii-e-advancer-electronic-ignition-coil-plug-wire-01.jpg
 
So you the r/w wire going to your key switch to provide battery voltage to the coil/ignition module? Is your rotor spinning? Advance/drive rod nice and tight?
Gen_II_Ignition_Diagram_1-450x450.jpg
 
I did my best to create the Kick only wiring I created from scratch. Again everything works and has power as it should . Just not getting spark.

Appreciate the help!
Screen Shot 2021-02-15 at 2.03.34 PM.png
 
Does this diagram mean the ignition coil is permanently live from the battery?? The key only seems to turn the lights on/off and connect the PMA/Regulator output to the lights and battery. I suggest just measuring the resistance of the primary and secondary windings on the coil just in case they are damaged.

Where do the ignition electronics get switched on and off??
 
The way you have it drawn, the coil and iggy module is live all the time.
 
I think I just drew it wrong . There isn't power to the coil until the key is switchd on.

How do I measure resistance? just of they have any power when the key is off?
 
The following is not relevant to your problems at the moment but is some advice for the use of a PMA:

With a PMA it is suggested by a few to have a separate fuse between the regulator +12 output and the battery. The reason is that should a diode fail in the regulator the fuse will prevent the battery dumping 20A through the PMA stator windings and burning it out. For example my Virago has a 15A fuse fitted just in case the regulator fails.
 
Using your multimeter but on the Ohms setting:

Primary Winding (12V)
1. Disconnect all power to the ignition coil.
2. Set the meter probes across the wire terminals.
3. You should get a value somewhere below 6 Ohms. The actual value depends on the coil. Search for your coil on the internet and check its specification.

Secondary Winding (High Voltage)
1. With all power disconnected from the coil remove the caps from the sparkplugs.
2. Connect one meter probe to each sparkplug cap.
3. You should get a value of several thousand Ohms. The actual value depends on the coil. Search for your coil on the internet and check its specification.

Note: Sometimes it is very hard to get a good contact with the probes on a sparkplug cap.
 
Got it. Yes I plan to add another fuse in there and clean it up a bit more. Working on a project and just getting to wiring and spark. So that's my issue no spark.

Thanks! I will try the resistance tonight and see if I come up with anything new
 
So do you have a PMA and points or PMA and an electronic ignition? Your drawing is a PMA with points. How do you know you don’t have spark? Are just looking at the plug and kicking it? Are you using an inline spark tester? Is it just not starting? The reason a points system isn’t producing spark could be way different than why an electronic iggy isn’t producing spark. A picture of whatever is under the cam covers would be a huge help.
 
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