So i was riding home one day over a month ago and it just died. i found that my pamco was burned up. I think it was my regulator/rectifier. so i had Pamcopete send me a replacement board. I ordered a new coil, reg/rec, and wires from mikes. i wired everything back how i found it when it stopped running (including the brown wire from the reg/rec that i couldnt figure out where it went) wired my coil and pamco back how it was supposed to be and i still cant start it. i checked for spark and it sparks fine, battery is new and fully charged. i have looked through the wiring over and over and cant find anything that can be wrong with it. It will backfire every 5th or so kick. i cant figure it out. i took my carbs apart today and cleaned them and still nothing. where else should i look?
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Cant get my bike to run anymore after i fried my pamco...
- Thread starter Jawknee21
- Start date
-
- Tags
- electrical engine
littlebill31
Smells of Raw Fuel
Sure your timing isn't 180 out?
With the Pamco it fires both cylinders every time the pistons come up. It can't be 180 out. One cylinder on compression the other on exhaust. !80 out and it still fires one on compression the other on exhaust.
I might check the static timing. When you replaced the Pamco board you need to start at the beginning.
Leo
I might check the static timing. When you replaced the Pamco board you need to start at the beginning.
Leo
How do I do that? That's the thing. It ran before with my old pamco but the po didnt put the advance stuff In like they were supposed to. So it was advanced just to get it to run. I don't plan on riding it til my advance parts and timing light come on Tuesday but I would like to at least get it started. This bike is testing my patience, when I have none to begin with...
Posted via Mobile
Posted via Mobile
First, try screwing the idle stop screw in clockwise (opening the throttle) two full turns and see what happens.
Next:
If your Pamco is centered between the adjustment slots, then the timing should be close enough to start the bike. So, it is either spark or gas. Ckeck your spark again. Then put a teaspoon of gas in each cylinder. If the bike fires and then dies, you have a plugged pilot jet or pilot circuits, or some other fuel problem. Do you have vacuum petcocks? Fuel in the tank?
Next:
If your Pamco is centered between the adjustment slots, then the timing should be close enough to start the bike. So, it is either spark or gas. Ckeck your spark again. Then put a teaspoon of gas in each cylinder. If the bike fires and then dies, you have a plugged pilot jet or pilot circuits, or some other fuel problem. Do you have vacuum petcocks? Fuel in the tank?
what would turning the idle screw in all the way do? keep it from flooding?
2nd, i put the pamco back where the old one was. i just used the wear marks on the old one to set the new one. would that affect it that much? so i should put it in the center?
2nd, i put the pamco back where the old one was. i just used the wear marks on the old one to set the new one. would that affect it that much? so i should put it in the center?
No, keep the Pamco where it is. I was just saying that your problem is probably not timing unless something weird or catastrophic happened.
When I resurrect an engine that has been idle for decades, I always start it the first time with the choke on and the idle stop screw in a couple of extra turns. They just start easier that way. Even a properly adjusted daily rider starts easier with an extra turn of the screw.
When I resurrect an engine that has been idle for decades, I always start it the first time with the choke on and the idle stop screw in a couple of extra turns. They just start easier that way. Even a properly adjusted daily rider starts easier with an extra turn of the screw.
ok. i had the choke all the way out before too. i cant get anything. im going to go try the gas in the cylinder thing. i have a petcock that flows all the time, it doesnt have an off. haha. also i dented my last tank by taking it off and on over and over so im just using a bottle with gas in it right now. i took my carbs apart yesterday too. the bike only sat for a couple weeks. a month before that it was sitting for like 3 months and it ran fine. i dont get it...
Yes, you can do static timing with a Pamco, it's a pretty easy test, and might be worth peace of mind regarding timing.
Riding without the advance weights may have done something major. I would also do a compression check just for peace of mind. Oreillys lends them for free (deposit).
Riding without the advance weights may have done something major. I would also do a compression check just for peace of mind. Oreillys lends them for free (deposit).
jeez. the oreillys by me hasnt opened yet. ill try autozone. it seemed fine before without the advance stuff but maybe its too late? i wouldnt have thought to buy it if i didnt have any problems. its supposed to get here tuesday. I have only been able to ride this bike like 350 miles since i got it back. there was always something wrong with it. and now its something else...
how do i do the static timing with my pamco? wouldnt leaving the key on and using a light hurt my coil? i have a multimeter but i dont know what to hook the leads to. i was looking at 5twins write up and its for points (not like i would know what i was doing with points anyway)...
Now that I think about it, maybe a static test an a Pamco is not so straightforward. With points no power is required. You just put one lead on the point, and the other on ground, and you slowly rotate the rotor while looking at continuity (resistance). It is explained well in the Clymer manual.
On a Pamco, I am not sure where you would put the first lead, or if it can even be done. Sorry about that.
On a Pamco, I am not sure where you would put the first lead, or if it can even be done. Sorry about that.
Anything is possible. There is an easy to understand stator test in either the Clymer manual, or the on-line manual, or both.
However, if you have spark the bike should start, a bad stator won't change that. You do still have spark, right?
yep, even changed the plugs. and just charged the battery. it should at least run off the battery til it dies right? as soon as i get it running im going to do the pma swap. this sucks! thanks for trying to help. im still taking stuff apart for no reason. i dont want to have to take it somewhere...
should i have a pickup for anything still on the bike? i just looked in my drawer of parts and i have what i think is a pickup and i dont know where it came from. i still dont know how to change my timing. cant find it...
