Carb T-connector

Thank you for the responses. I'm a bit wary on buying a new replacement given some didn't have success and the design remains unchanged. Being in Australia I would pay $45AU and wait a week so I may as well try a diy repair first or I have a spare set of parts carbs that have a better looking tee.

The screws seem soft as butter unfortunately but I'm keen to grab an impact driver and if that fails I'm sure a machinist can weld a nut onto it or I could try the easy out.
 
If they're difficult at all, take them to a machine shop; maybe even happen while-u-wait. I think an easy-out would just cause further problems -- the screws are in there with some kind of heavy-duty white threadlocker.

Anytime I've used an easy-out in this kind of context it was too late -- it's so tight the damn head broke off; do you really think an easy out won't snap in two and just piss off the machinist when he finally gets it? :)
 
Dave79sx650 said:
Do these petcocks have a shut off an if they don't is there any thing aftermarket that does??? Thanks
Click to expand...

scratches head, We're talking about the fuel tee between the BS34 carbs (80-84) here, the petcock (just one on the BS34 bikes) is on the bottom of gas tank? And yes a petcock is by definition a shut off valve, or at least it was when new LOL.
Here's a petcock rebuild how to http://www.xs650.com/threads/rebuilding-yamaha-vacuum-operated-fuel-valves-petcocks.20662
 
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5twins said:
Although I've not tried it, I think an original may be able to be repaired by putting a couple layers of shrink tubing on each end. Let it hang off slightly so it curls down over the end when shrunk. All the original has is a thin rubber coating and that seals fine. If you look in the hole in the carb, you'll see it has a beveled bottom. Forcing the rubber coated end of the tee into that bevel is what makes the seal.[/QUOTE

I did this and it worked for a time. Then after it started leaking again I bought an aluminum tee fitting from Mike’sXs and it has two o rings on each side. Greased it and installed. Works great.
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Austblue said:
I woke my xs up today after a 4 year sleep and found that the tee was leaking and after a lot of searching I managed to find this thread. I tried to separate the carbs but couldn't free the screws up on the plate bracket so was wondering if there was similar experience that could offer some guidance on removing these? The hardware was closed so tomorrow I was going to purchase a manual impact driver and give that a try along with some light heat (no oxy torch). I didn't want to jump straight to drilling/easy out as that seemed risky.

I see that Mike has an aluminium tee now - wondering if this is better than the brass model which seems to be ineffective? Reading the above I'm tempted to try using heat shrink over the stock tee.

48-0887_aluminum_carb_fuel_tee_1.jpg
Click to expand...
It does for me!
 
So, not to jinx anyone, the the aluminum tees from a certain vendor in FL - the inlet T is just pressed into the horizontal piece. If, when, you remove stuck fuel line from it, the inlet may separate. Fix is easy: just a light bead of JB weld (keeping out of the horizontal orifice) seals it permanently👍
 
jpdevol said:
So, not to jinx anyone, the the aluminum tees from a certain vendor in FL - the inlet T is just pressed into the horizontal piece. If, when, you remove stuck fuel line from it, the inlet may separate. Fix is easy: just a light bead of JB weld (keeping out of the horizontal orifice) seals it permanently👍
Click to expand...
I had decided long ago I wouldn't buy one of these, then I forgot. It's good to know I can use it.
SIRIUS CONSOLIDATED INC. has a superior product for anyone interested. I've had their tees running in my XS1100 and my XS650SK for quite some time.
1660760832664.png
 
gggGary said:
I've been replacing hardened cracked rubber on the trees with tygon fuel line.
Click to expand...
I did that too. Right up until it started leaking. I think it held for some years.
In the end, I probably figured out how to screw it up. IIRC, this was a Pamco Pete fix.
 
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pamcopete said:
The original "T" can be reclaimed and used again.

1. Start by stripping the rubber coating off of it.
Click to expand...
I think it was xs650skull who had a solution that involved cutting a groove in the coating to hold an o-ring. Sounds good to me if we know what exact o-ring size? If that doesn't work, then maybe we resort to stripping the coating off. On my '81 I'm using a T from an xs11 which has just one o-ring on each side.(edit) spend an extra 5 cents and use a couple so I would be less nervous (edit).
 
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Full disclosure these haven't been installed. The tygon is pushed in place then cut slightly longer than the end of the Tee so the end curves in to aid in pushing it into the carb bodies. A bit of lube and twisting and it pushes right in.

KIMG0429.JPG
From my carb journeys; don't get in a rush to replace the tee if the rubber isn't cracked, I've had "many" that leaked when fuel was FIRST put back in the carb set. Then after bit, the gas swells the rubber and it goes back on the job sealing against fuel leaks.
 
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I've had good luck re-using original "T"s but I clamp the carbs together so the "T" is tight. I do this with the top and bottom brackets still loose, then tighten them to hold the "T" tight .....

Fuel-T-Install.jpg
 

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