Alxs650
XS650 Member
I changed my stator rotor, and now the bike won't start... And the kick start seems stuck, does not kick over like it did before
What could I have screwd up?
What could I have screwd up?
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Changed my stator rotor, now the bike won't start...
- Thread starter Alxs650
- Start date
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- Tags
- electrical
CDNTX650
XS650 Guru
rotor not on all the way?
Alxs650
XS650 Member
Ok, got it started with the electric start, but the kick is still not the same, I can't seem to kick start it anymore.. I'll check again...
The other problem is that it still doesnt seem to be charging properly, when reving all the way it only goes to 12.2-12.3 not 14.5 lik its supposed to.
The other problem is that it still doesnt seem to be charging properly, when reving all the way it only goes to 12.2-12.3 not 14.5 lik its supposed to.
I seem to recall somewhere, sometime about the length of the stator screws being different and not getting them switched.....possible result in gouging the rotor rings. Hope I'm mistaken but something to check.
Alxs650;
Gives us a little history. Why was the previous rotor removed; was it faulty? Do you know for sure that the new rotor is in working condition..................did you measure its resistance from one copper ring to the other copper ring?
Gives us a little history. Why was the previous rotor removed; was it faulty? Do you know for sure that the new rotor is in working condition..................did you measure its resistance from one copper ring to the other copper ring?
vagabond
XS650 Enthusiast
How are your alternator brushes? I've been getting 12.5V recently as well. The bike starts, but I'm soon going to change out my current brushes for new ones to see if I can get the voltage on start back up to 13.5.
nj1639,
I don't know about the stator screws, but if you get the brush screws mixed up you can gouge a rotor quick.
I don't know about the stator screws, but if you get the brush screws mixed up you can gouge a rotor quick.
+ one on you gotta be careful which screws go where, on brush holders, pick up holder and cable clamps! The comonality on rotor change and kick start is the clutch adjustment. Kick start goes through the clutch. The LH cover contains the clutch adjuster. So if you did not get that back in the correct place or did not put a gasket back in place you may not have the right freeplay and the kick start will feel "mushy" due to clutch slip.
As far as charging; don't become a parts thrower, trouble shoot, isolate, repair defective component. Go to tech, use the curly's guide, find the problem. Yes rotors are frequent trouble spots but they are not the only area that causes poor charging.
member3480
RICH
DUDE before you destroy parts take stator back off and see if it kicks easy if it does you didn't seat it right and you can screw up the new one !!!!
It only goes in one way and has to seat correctly.
It only goes in one way and has to seat correctly.
TeeCat
One-Mik Wonder
Daddy and nj are dead right! I have made this mistake and could not kick my bike... had a HELLUVA time sorting it out! Finally, on a whim, I noticed that the stator was not seated properly because the long mounting machine screws look the same, but in fact are different lengths! Swap them and make sure your stator is seated properly... bet you dollars to donuts that's the problem!
TC
Mark to find out if a rotor is good you need to check the ohm reading between the slip rings and between the slip rings and the body of the rotor. Slip ring to slip ring should be 5 ohms, infinity to the body.
On a low ohm test like slip ring to slip ring set your meter to it's lowest settting. Most digitals that will be 200 ohms. Touch the probes together. This gives you the ohms of the probes and leads. Remember this number.
On one of my meters this reading is .1 the other is .7.
Now with the slip rings bright and shiny from cleaning touch a probe to each one. Now subtract the probe ohms from the test ohms.
On my meter lets say the test reading is 5.3 ohms. Now subtract the .1. You get 5.2 Well with in the 5.25ohms +or- 10%.
If your rotor faiuls these tests then you need a replacement. Gary at Custom Rewinds, 1-800-798-7282 will get you right. You can pay more, you can pay less, but you can't get better.
Leo
On a low ohm test like slip ring to slip ring set your meter to it's lowest settting. Most digitals that will be 200 ohms. Touch the probes together. This gives you the ohms of the probes and leads. Remember this number.
On one of my meters this reading is .1 the other is .7.
Now with the slip rings bright and shiny from cleaning touch a probe to each one. Now subtract the probe ohms from the test ohms.
On my meter lets say the test reading is 5.3 ohms. Now subtract the .1. You get 5.2 Well with in the 5.25ohms +or- 10%.
If your rotor faiuls these tests then you need a replacement. Gary at Custom Rewinds, 1-800-798-7282 will get you right. You can pay more, you can pay less, but you can't get better.
Leo
Robert Dell Aquila
Shine it on
Hi was reading your post about the rotor screws. Mine did exactly what you described. Would you recommend changin the rotor? I have damaged the rotor with the screws and now my brushes dont make a "good" contact.
This information would have been real handy to know.............
Robert Dell Aquila
Shine it on
Yea man I'm sorry. I was reading this post and remebered that my rotor had been damaged. Not too bad beause I still have contact from my brush to the rotor but might not be the contact that it needs.
I'd be checking the charging with a voltmeter to see if it needs to be swapped. If it's working, then it's working.
