charging system help

So I'm going to replace the stock system with a permanent magnetic alternator and a pamco ignition kit. It's expensive, but hopefully worth it. I'll let you all know.
 
Hi folks,

I'm new here and this is my first post. It's a nice atmosphere here.

Here's my problem;

I suspect I have a bad alternator rotor because my mechanic told me so!:yikes: But then I read this thread and I'm afraid to get a new one and find it's a bad wire or something like that.

My symptoms are these-my "brake tail" light stays on always, my battery needs charging after every small trip and on the way home after a few nervous miles, the bike won't rev hard and I have to short-shift to get ANY power from the motor.

On a fresh charge the motor will happily rev hard and pull hard.

So, can the resident electrical geniuses here confirm it's a bad alternator/rotor and if so where to get a replacement? I'm in Toronto, Canada. I see that Mikes' XS in the States and it's Canadian affilliate XS650 Direct is out of new ones.

Please help!

Paddy
 
Thanks for the quick reply atomic22.

Pardon my ignorance but what is "PMA"?
 
PMA = Permanent Magnet Alternator

Click the link on post #2 in this thread. Curley's guide will pinpoint your problems so you are not throwing parts at it. :doh:
 
I checked the #2 out and thereafter. Sounds like PMA is not the route I want to go. Think I'll seek out a new alternator/rotor and in the meantime just keep re-charging my battery overnight.

It's a mugs' game I know, but it works for short runs which, lets face it, is all I can take on this buzz-saw shaker of a bike.
 
paddy,

Well, you might as well:

1. Unplug your regulator if you are going to go like that. That will save a couple of amps and let you ride longer.
2. Turn off your headlight when stopped at a red light.
3. Disconnect the rear brake light wires so you can hold it steady at the stop light without running down the battery as much.
4. Kick start it only to save the battery as well.
5. Carry a small battery charger with you for emergencies!
6. Install a PAMCO with the 17-6822 coil! That will run on the battery for 8 hours without the headlight on, about 4 hours with the headlight.
 
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Paddy, exact same symptoms as mine, turned out to be the rotor. BUT seriously use the checklist it will help you be sure. I was taking short runs with an extra BATTERY strapped to the fender struts for good measure.

OH! And a big thanks to the original poster who sold (err....traded) me the bike which still wasnt charging. Just so ya know...it was the rotor....

Craig
 
Thank you pamcopete and Craig. Good advice all. I will do these things and hope to find a working rotor eventually. My mechanic checked it out and confirmed it's the rotor. So assuming that's ALL it is, the solution is pretty straightforward.
 
I've heard that www.Regulatorrectifier.com has rebuilts for $150. They'll pay for the shipping of the core but I'm in Canada and don't know if I qualify for this.

Anyone familiar with this company and it's products?
 
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I just checked the site.
They have three listings for rotors. A 75-83 Yamaha XS650SE CDI ignition, a 75-79 XS650, an 80-81 XS650, all $149.99. All rebuilt. They send a prepaid return label to send back your rotor. $100 dollar core charge, refunded when they get old rotor.
They list a new 75-79 stator, $189.99. They show a generic pic, not the exact 650 stator.
It says at the bottom of the home page they ship international.
I've never used this company. By the website, it looks good. The prices are not too bad.
You can chat with someone there live, Contact them and ask a few questions.
Gary at custom rewinds sounds like a better deal. $125 no core charge and a loaner rotor puller.
 
paddy,

That may be a good and reputable company, but if you asked me, I would tell you to call Gary at Custom Rewind in Birmingham, AL @ 800 798 7282.

He charges $125 plus your core for a rebuilt rotor.

If you have trouble crossing the border, let me know and you can have them ship the rotor to me and I will arrange forwarding to you. PM me to exchange addresses.
 
I'm getting ready to check the ohms on my stator. I just picked up a multimeter. It has 5 settings for checking resistance. Which should I use? 200, 2000, 20k, 200k, or 2000k?

Thanks
 
Hey pamcopete, thanks for the offer! No problems crossing the border it's just that with shipping charges back and forth, and Revenue Canada taking a bite out of me when the thing arrives at the post office or my door, I think I'll play the wait and see game with my local supplier.

They say they're working on getting the product so we'll see.

Cheers!
 
I'm getting ready to check the ohms on my stator. I just picked up a multimeter. It has 5 settings for checking resistance. Which should I use? 200, 2000, 20k, 200k, or 2000k?

Thanks

200 Always select the range that is closest to the expected value, like if you expect 13K ohms for the coil secondary, select 20K. The expected value has to be less than the range, which is a max value.
 
I found a NEW rotor on www.electrosport.com for $139. It's said to be superior to the OE part with magnets built in for the later electronic ignition models as well.
It comes with a one year warranty and there's no shipping the old one so I'm happy.

Just waiting for delivery now. I'll report back when it's installed.

Anyone heard of this company and have experience with this part?
 
That company has come up on here before but I dont recall any reviews on it, so let us know how things go when you get the part!!! Im still in the market myself...

Craig
 
If my memory serves me correct
electrosport is where mikes used to get their rotors
untill there where to many complaints and he stopped carring them
I hope I am wrong paddy
Please let us know how you make out
 
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