Charging test for IDIOTS....Anybody have one?

remainincognito

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I'm really an idiot when it comes to electrical. Even when reading the techs I still not quite sure where to touch the red and where to touch the black to test my alt/stator and coil and do I have the key on or off? Anybody want to give a charging test for dummies/retards?

Running a pamco ignition,new coil new battery at 12.6...key on 12.3-5....and will not rise 14.5 at 3000rpm
 
When you follow Curly's charging guide, any time you test for voltage the key needs to be on. Anytime you test for resistance the key is off.
These rules apply on any testing. Voltage = power on, resistance = power off.
On resistance tests it won't matter which probe touches which terminal. There are tests that you touch the probes one way then reverse them. Diodes get tested that way. On your bike the rectifier gets tested that way because it has diodes inside.
On voltage tests the red lead goes to positive, the black to negative.
The first thing I would check is the length of the brushes, the book calls for about a 1/4 in minimum length, anything less than about 3/8's is getting to short.
Often that's all that's wrong.
While you have the brushes out is a good time to check the rotor's ohms.
To do the test, set your meter to it's lowest ohm scale. Most digital meters that's 200. Now touch the leads together, this reading is for the leads, remember this number, it gets subtracted from the test reading to get the actual ohms.
Now touch one probe to each slip ring, where the brushes touch the rotor. Also touch one probe to a slip ring and ground.
When you get a reading on the rotor you need to subtract the probe to probe reading from the reading you got. Example, one of my meters when touching probes reads .5 ohms.
If I test a rotor and get say 5.7 ohms, I subtract the .5 from the 5.7 and get 5.2 ohms. The rotor should test 5.25 ohms + or - 10% or 4.5 to 5.5 ohms. Thats the spec from the 78 book. In the 70 book it says 5 to 7 ohms most check out about 5 to 6 ohms.
From slipring to ground you should not get a reading.
If it reads way high or way low or gets a reading to ground, then the rotor needs replacing.
Testing the stator is done in a simular fashion. To test the stator, follow the wires from the stator up to a large connector. It has 8 wires in it. There is also a yellow wire in it's own 1 wire plug. Unplug these connectors. On the big one you will find three white wires. think of them as three pairs of wires. Test the three pairs of wires as you did the rotor sliprings. Should get about .9 ohms + or - 10%, no reading to ground.
Checking all the connectors in the wiring harness for clean and tight is a good idea.
One thing, if you put your bikes year, model and any mods in your signature people won't have to ask what your bike is and whats been done to it.
Leo
 
Rotor test was 2.0 ohms with the difference and no reading to ground. Stator test was .5-.6 on all leads with no reading to ground. I did not do the feeler test as I did not have a feeler small enough. Do I need to replace rotor? Can I get a used one from ebay?
 
Simplest field test for charging.

Idle the engine with the brights on a building or the car in front at a stop light. Have the brake on too so there are plenty of watts being used up. Blip the throttle, if the charging system works, the headlight will brighten from the alternator charge. Nothing? You better hgih tail it home because you are running on battery only.

Tom Graham
 
^That's a good indicator, but only if you're idling below a certain speed. Much above 1250 and you might not notice a lot of difference in the lights when you rev. You can use the neutral light for the check too.
 
On your rotor test I would say the rotor is bad. The low ohms means the windings in the rotor are shorting internally and not using all the windings, This will not create a strong magnetic feild, thus it will fail the feeler gauge test.
The .5 to .6 on the stator is a bit low but if they are all the same and no short to ground it should work ok.
I would start by getting a different rotor. This should get some charge. If it is still low then a different stator.
Ebay has several listed now. One is a rewind for $299, I think the seller is nuts on that one. Custom Rewinds at 1-800-798-7282, talk to Gary, does them for $125 last time I checked.
You didn't mention what year your bike is. You should put that info in your signature.
If your bike is 70 to 79 any good rotor will work. If your bike is an 80 up you will need an 80 up rotor. The electronic ignition needs the rotor with a magnet in it.
Leo
 
The bike is a 1975...engine code is 447-122776. What do you mean a rotor with a magnet with my electronic ignition? I found a used rotor on ebay for a 79 for 69.00 that has 3500 miles on the bike.
 
I see that now. you put it in your signature, very good.
When I wrote that responce I didn't know that. I said "IF" your bike was a 70-79 you can use any rotor. "IF" your bike is an 80 up you need a rotor with a magnet.
In 80 they started using an electornic ignition that used the magnet and a set of pickups on the stator.
The rotor you found will work fine as long as it is a good one.
Leo
 
I found a used rotor on ebay for a 79 for 69.00 that has 3500 miles on the bike.

Its not how many miles it has done, (although it is a good start), make sure it is tested to spec and get a quoted response from the seller so you have some come back if it is bad
 
Just picked up a 79 that has been tested at 5.0 ohms and has a 14 day money back for 35.00. Thanks for the help.
 
Well just got the rotor that was said to have read 5 ohms from ebay and sure enough the damn thing reads 1 ohm!! I contacted seller who has a 14 day return policy but now I'm setback another freakin week or more. Damn I just wanna ride!

Posted via Mobile
 
Spoke with the owner of the ebay store that I bought the rotor from. Very nice and honest man. Not only is he paying return shipping but he is giving me my money back and $50 towards another purchase on ebay. Very stand up individual.

Posted via Mobile
 
I think you found a good guy in that seller. I hope you find a good rotor.
Leo
 
a point brought up by an electrician friend, the rotor should be checked with a dial ohm meter, not a digital, in order to get a proper reading.
 
By dial do you mean analog? Thats with a needle. If you want to spend a ton of cash you can get an analog meter that has a very low ohm setting. And yes that will be a bit more precise than a digital meter. Most digital meters are plenty accurate for tresting the rotor or stator's low ohms if you use it right.
To use a meter right isn't hard. Set the meter to it's lowest ohm scale, usually 200 ohms. Touch the probes together just before you do a test. This pretest touch tells you the resistance of the probes, then just subtact this reading from the reading you get while testing the rotor or stator.
On one set of leads for my meter it pretests at .1 ohm, the other leads pretest at .7 ohms. A rotor test out the same with both leads.
Leo
 
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