I have a question, I just got my '81 yesterday (I'm as noob as it gets) and the guy I bougth it from broke 2 cables before selling it to me. I started swapping the cables yesterday, I haven't had time to adjust it yet. My question is, is there suppose to be another ball between the worm and the rod? I read in another thread http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143 that there is a ball there but I haven't been able to find it in any diagram.
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pregrid
XS650 Guru
It'd OK to be a noob, I was a year and a half ago. Now I'm a semi-noob!
There is a ball there but it's captured in the worm gear thingie. Or at least it should be. If you clean off the grease in there you should be able to see it. If you can't you'll have to replace the assembly. Just be sure to re-grease it. You can see the ball in the pic below.
yamaman
xs650 addict
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Gday mate, yes there is a ball there (5/16") no its not in the diagram, as it is a part of the actuator, it is crimped into position and should not come out, though they sometimes do! Cheers
simultanious typing Dave!
Posted via Mobile
simultanious typing Dave!
Posted via Mobile
Dennis
XS650 Addict
yes a 5/16 ball that you should be able to find at your local hardware store.
No need to buy the whole assembly just for the ball
No need to buy the whole assembly just for the ball
pregrid
XS650 Guru
Update on Hugh's hydraulic conversion. Took a ride Father's day with my son and son-in-law to Alice's across the bay. 'bout 70 miles round trip. Clutch works great. Neutral was easier to find in almost all conditions ( the only exception was when the bike was hot and stopped, easy to find while rolling even when hot). My next change is to go to a better clutch disc setup, mine is a good condition stock one now. Keep in mind this is a semi-hydraulic setup (still retains the wormgear thingie) so the pull is about the same as a cable. But still it's head and shoulders above the cable. I would recommend it to anyone.
Thanks guys! I'm pretty sure there was no ball in there although I didn't have much time to work on it. I'll definately have to check for that when I clean it up. I ordered a new EZ pull cable from 650Central.com. Anyone ever use them before? I've seen good reviews on here about them, was wonderinal also if i really have to bend the top of the worm return spring like MMM suggested. I started to last night but didn't have the guts to go through with it. It seemed fragile. Oh, and how long do I have to keep prefacing every post with "I'm a noob?"
pregrid
XS650 Guru
Pretty sure you're there (read your last post)
Have not used MMM's clutch cable but if he says it works it does! He has been instrumental in helping me get my build to where it is now. The man knows his shit.
In pregrid's pic, you see two holes for the cable holder to mount to the arm.
The outer hole gives a slightly easier lever pull. but won't open disengage the clutch as much. The inner hole will disengage the clutch more, but lever pull will be slightly more.
I have one in my 750 kitted 75 with heavy duty springs, 70 lb springs, the stock springs are around 50 lb. I use the inner hole. Neutral is easy to find, shifts well. And with well lubed worm and cable can pull the lever with two fingers.
On the adjustment lots of people can't feel the tension on the adjuster screw very well. I reccomend loosening the adjuster screw in the worm and spinning it in and out a few time or more to get a good feel for the resistance of just the screw before you do the asjustment. This will make feeling the point of resistance as the slack is taken out off the worm to push rod and clutch much easier.
I also reccomend that when you first feel resistance yu back it off just 1/8 turn, not the 1/4 inch the book calls for. This helps minimze the cold to hot changes.
Leo
The outer hole gives a slightly easier lever pull. but won't open disengage the clutch as much. The inner hole will disengage the clutch more, but lever pull will be slightly more.
I have one in my 750 kitted 75 with heavy duty springs, 70 lb springs, the stock springs are around 50 lb. I use the inner hole. Neutral is easy to find, shifts well. And with well lubed worm and cable can pull the lever with two fingers.
On the adjustment lots of people can't feel the tension on the adjuster screw very well. I reccomend loosening the adjuster screw in the worm and spinning it in and out a few time or more to get a good feel for the resistance of just the screw before you do the asjustment. This will make feeling the point of resistance as the slack is taken out off the worm to push rod and clutch much easier.
I also reccomend that when you first feel resistance yu back it off just 1/8 turn, not the 1/4 inch the book calls for. This helps minimze the cold to hot changes.
Leo
Bigfeet
to many projects
I've been fighting with my hydraulic conversion and started thinking about Leo's post. I decided to drill a third hole as close to the pivot point as I could to gain just a hair more throw. It seems to have helped neutral is now much easier to find hot or cold.
I finally fixed my clutch problem today. While building some new 1" bars I swapped out my clutch lever. Now I can find neutral and shifting works awesome.
I picked it up from Trumpnut/Ace Cycles in Sparks/Reno. I still need to get an adapter for the slug, but it's working awesome!
I picked it up from Trumpnut/Ace Cycles in Sparks/Reno. I still need to get an adapter for the slug, but it's working awesome!
