clutch push rod seal

[dlabkeeg]

Is there any way to get a new clutch push rod seal in, without cracking the case. Or can you crack the case without taking the top end off or apart. I tested my compression, got about 130 psi. each side. I'd rather not screw with the top end if I don't need to.

 

[KevC]

look here on Mikesxs tech tip page, about half way down page for seal & bush replacement
here

Kev

 

[yamaman]

I think mikesxs.com has detailed instructions on the seal & bush replacement on his website. Yes, the seal is designed to be installed with open cases. Is a easy job to replace though without splitting. Usually a good time to replace the bush also & replace the 2 piece push rod with a 1 piece,

 

[dlabkeeg]

Well, I guess I know what I'm getting next paycheck. Long pushrod, engine seal kit, and bushing from mike's . Might as well replace all the seals I can while the engine is out. Thanks guys Oh, and the Heiden Oil Filter/Cooler Kit.

 

[Gordon]

dlabkeeg, On Mike's home page ,those instruction's are very easy to follow. He's also posted what to do IF the bush doesn't come out. I did mine that way, except I did not champher the case. No problem's with it, & the seal went in easily enough. I would suggest the long replacement pushrod, allot less 'flexing' so allot less chance of leakage.
I also have that cooler kit,too.Very easy install also. Look's pretty good, too. Opp's, should read before I write, oh well.

 

[Xumi]

I just did this operation 2 weeks ago.. Replaced the clutch pushrod seal and the output shaft seal - one was weeping, the other was gushing.

The howto on mixesxs page is really good and easy to follow - I did it step by step as per the page and it worked out well. I did the chamfering with a sharp pocket knife. Took less than 10 minutes extra, and it's worth the peace of mind.

I was overly concerned that I'd tear up the seat getting the old seals out, but really it wasn't too bad - pushrod just came out with some needle nose pliers grabbing the inside where the purshrod enters it, and pulled with some authority. Took a little more work to get the output seal out, but still not too bad. Just be careful, take your time, and you'll do fine.

Xumi

 

[Mark19]

Just took right cover off. Because of neutral spots. Found broken spring. Decided to check clutch disc. (1980 650 Sp II) XS650G. Measured each clutch disk to be 2.96 typical. We did not take out center push rod assembly.

Getting ready to reassemby. Any warnings or special instructions.

 

[Grinder]

I also just did this and changed to the one piece pushrod, well worth doing. My bushing didn't come out with the drill bits though and smoked my cordless drill. It did thin the bushing out enough that I could colapse it and pull it out. I used XSLEO's method of installing the seal with a #3 philips screwdriver and that worked really well. I couldn't believe how loose the front sprocket nut was...finger tight!!

 

[XSLeo]

Mark, the 2.96 is well with in the specs. 3 mm new. When assembling the clutch be sure all the right washers are in the right places an the hole in the pressure plate is lined up with the dot on the hub.
Upgrading the springs is a good idea. I have 70 lb springs on mine, a slight bit more lever pull but no slip with the 750 engine. 650central has several spring sets.
Leo

 

[lassenc]

I suggest that you not buy the seal from mikes and get an industrial standard size instead, they seem alot more firm.