Clutch reassembly video/ worm mechanism question video

ok that very helpful indeed.

It seems likely that the clutch assembly has been made up of mismatched pieces which is not going to help the situation so we need to look at the individual clutch components and measure them carefully.

I would also suggest that since the PO rebuilt the bike the gearbox has never worked properly and this could be due to incorrect assembly.


regarding the clutch pushrod assembly it sounds like you have got that correct .

Whilst you have the clutch off I would suggest that you check that you can get all the gears by turning the star on the end of the gear selector drum. You may need to temporarily remove the selector rod and use a pair of pliers on the star.

You may need to rock the bike back and forward a few inches whilst you turn the star.

I understand from your videos that you removed and reassembled the selector star so this is worthwhile to check. My gears were difficult to select initially because one of the locking split pins on the selector forks was fouling on an adjacent fork.
 
Awesome peanut. I was able to select through all the gears with my casing off, just like you described with the star gear. It shifted just fine, at times I did have to move the transmission shaft to get it to pop into gear but I have been told thats fine because when the bike is actually running down the road the bike naturally does that due to it moving forward.

Now I have measured all the plates and all the steel plates. All in several locations on the plates to make sure there consistent.... and they are all fine. I have measured all the washers and the spacer..... again all fine. I'm including in this post two photos..... one is a photo of your clutch assembly you posted on one of my threads, the other is a photo I just took of my clutch assembly. Now the photo of mine is assembled after I have measured all the plates and washer to ensure correct size. I am asking you if you can see why they differ.
As you can see your hub sticks out a bit while mine sinks in and is about flush with my basket.
 

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Awesome peanut. I was able to select through all the gears with my casing off, just like you described with the star gear. It shifted just fine, at times I did have to move the transmission shaft to get it to pop into gear but I have been told thats fine because when the bike is actually running down the road the bike naturally does that due to it moving forward.

Now I have measured all the plates and all the steel plates. All in several locations on the plates to make sure there consistent.... and they are all fine. I have measured all the washers and the spacer..... again all fine. I'm including in this post two photos..... one is a photo of your clutch assembly you posted on one of my threads, the other is a photo I just took of my clutch assembly. Now the photo of mine is assembled after I have measured all the plates and washer to ensure correct size. I am asking you if you can see why they differ.
As you can see your hub sticks out a bit while mine sinks in and is about flush with my basket.

In the first pic the clutch is assembled incorrectly, probably the alignment marks for the inner hub and the pressure plate are not lined up, but yours for looks correct as to the pressure plate sitting fully against the outer friction plate. If you are able to shift the bike correctly by using the star wheel then I don't think your clutch is the issue but it is more likely that the shift shaft is out of adjustment. Just my $.02.

Not trying to sound like a know it all ass but I have a few of questions: 1) Are you 100% sure that the alignment marks for your pressure plate and inner hub are lined up properly? There is only one way that they can line up and the clutch "grab" like it is supposed to. If they are not lined up the pressure plate will not put any pressure on the friction and steel plates and it will slip like it is in your video. 2) Do you have the springs under the 6 pressure plate retaining screws? Again they are needed to put pressure on the friction and steel plates. 3) Is there a difference if you pull the left hand cover with the worm screw off? Does the clutch hook up then?
 
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I feel like an idiot guys...... Ignore video in post #104. My worm mechanism wasn't adjusted correctly. There was to much pressure pushing on the pressure plate...... Sorry about that
 
yes that is the conclusion that I came to watching your video.

There needs to be a little play in the clutch system after you have adjusted it to allow for expansion and contraction of components due to thermal changes . If you adjust it up too tight then the clutch will be partially operating and will slip as it did in your video.

Looks like you are making real progress well done.

You should be able to test the clutch and gear operation now I should have thought:thumbsup:

Did you check the gap behind the clutch basket with a feeler guage yet ? you need to be sure there is sufficient clearance as the clutch assembly will wobble some during operation so you need a working clearance . Mine has just over 1mm
 
As you can see your hub sticks out a bit while mine sinks in and is about flush with my basket.

thats ok....... its because your clutch assembly is tightened down whereas the other is probably just loosely assembled
 
Well guys...... I just went on my first ride on my bike!!!!!! All your help and knowledge got her running, and rolling down the road. I couldn't be more happy!! Thank you to all for all the advise, and all the information...... And putting up with my terrible explanations.

I will be posting a new video because I have some more questions, but that will be either later today, or tomorrow. It will be a new thread so please keep an eye out.

Again thank you all.
 
fantastic !... thats the best news we could have heard and all thanks to your perseverence :thumbsup:
 
Well, I spent most of the morning trying to find this. Gonna post it anyways. Peanut cautions about checking for proper backside clearance of the clutch basket. Here's a pic of what can happen when there's insufficient clearance. Notice the scrape line to the left of the primary drive gear, caused by the clutch basket gear rubbing on the case.

From this post: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=267118&postcount=78

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Here's a pic of what can happen when there's insufficient clearance. Notice the scrape line to the left of the primary drive gear, caused by the clutch basket gear rubbing on the case.
Ah! now... if you had looked at my video in post 43 of this thread you'd have seen the same gouge mark on my case :wink2::thumbsup:

What should the correct clearance be ? I've only got about 1.4mm on mine
 
Ah! now... if you had looked at my video in post 43 of this thread you'd have seen the same gouge mark on my case :wink2::thumbsup:

I *thought* that I'd seen that in one of your threads! I can't always run videos out here in bandwidth-limit-land, often get youtube errors, so I missed that.

What should the correct clearance be ? I've only got about 1.4mm on mine

Whatever it takes for the clutch basket gear to fully align with the primary gear. So, your 1.4mm is gospel for now.

If I hadn't misinterpreted the original video image of the clutch hub/shaft spline, this thread would've been a lot shorter.
I'm glad Vonturd got this problem licked and the bike is running now...
 
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