Clutch reassembly video/ worm mechanism question video

Vonturd

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Here are two more videos.
Vid#1 is to make sure my clutch washers and bearings are in the correct sequence.

Vid#2 is a question about my shorter of my two pushrods not fitting properly in my worm mechanism.

If you can make any comments that would be wonderful.

 
Vid #2 - Good catch. Yep, the small-end of the pushrod should easily fit into the worm drive opening so it can engage the ball bearing. I've seen this issue with the retainer plate style of MikesXS replacement worm. Never heard of this with a factory staked unit. You can micro-file or dremel-grind a little off those stake marks so the pushrod fits in there, just leave enuff to retain the ball.

Dimensions in this post:

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=325458&postcount=112
From this thread: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31554
 
I'm also thinking that the 2nd washer (just behind the basket) is too thin. When you fit the basket, check for clearance between the basket teeth and the raised boss just to the left of the primary drive gear. Ensure that the basket gear is at the same level as the primary drive gear...
 
man I'm sorry...... i'm confused.I thought it was to thick because the inner hub wasn't sitting flush. I can't seem to find a correct photo of what the whole set up should look like.
 
Also, I don't see how the lock ears on your lockwasher can engage the hub, like you've got the earlier hub that didn't use that style of lockwasher. Double-check 5Twins' comments in the post above about the various lockwasher systems, and double-check in that clutch master thread. May need to revert to the earlier hub washer...
 
One thing I've not found in this forum is the 'basket spin test'.

With the primary drive gear removed, you can spin the clutch basket.
The hub and all related washers need to be installed and tightened.
You'll want to check for:
Free spinning, no interference with things behind it.
Clearance to the raised portion of the case just to the left of the crank ball-bearing. Would like at least 1/2 mm here.
Wobbling. It must run true. No runout, no wobble.
Looseness. Don't want it flopping around in there. Should have little to no perceptable side-side, up-down, in-out slack.

If all is OK, then reinstall primary drive gear. Ensure that primary drive gear teeth are at same level/elevation as clutch basket gear teeth...
 
ClutchWashers.jpg
Maybe this will help from 5twins
 
Thanx, payaso13! What I'm thinking here is that we're dealing with another 'frankenbike'. An '80, titled as an '82, with non-damped `70s clutch hub???

May want to step back and reconsider this. The current set of parts should probably be carefully measured, identified, and appropriate parts figured-out...
 
Okay, with that thin washer missing, I'm concerned about basket in-out freeplay. Sure, the hub spins fine, but the spin test is for the basket.

Did you mic and compare the washers against the posted diagrams?

Also note that the 'missing washer' is a known item. Manuals omit it because they're not up-to-speed.
 
Man..... I am about at my wits end with this. I have read everything I can..... Nothing seems to me right. I bet you guys can understand my frustration. I really don't know what to do next. Everytime any of you suggest a thread I read it at least 3 to 4 times so I make sure I can understand it.

In answer to your last question yes. I did compare my washers to the diagram.... There all the same.
Maybe your right..... Maybe my bike is a frankenbike. The crappy thing is, the guy I bought it from is now in afghanistan for 2 years so I can't ask him any questions.
I'm so fucking lost :(
 
Well, hang in there. It may not work with the parts you have. So far, in your vid, the first 2 washers seem to place the basket in the appropriate alignment with the primary drive gear.

The real problem here is the excessive exposed spline after fitting the hub. The hub is spaced out by the washers with the smaller ID's, and the inner bush of the basket.

It's one thing to repair a machine that was working correctly prior to breakdown.
It's something else trying to assemble a basket case or an unproved frankenbike.

So, was it working fine before? Or is this an unfinished 'project'?

This is where I get out the micrometers, measure and sketch, and derive running clearances using sideviews like that posted above. The idea of 'throwing it together' would be out the door.

Again, the hub fitting too deeply onto that driveshaft is a warning sign. Unfortunately, I don't have the factory drawings showing the manufacturing dimensions, so no help there.

If the bike was here in my shop, we could get this to work, possibly machining special spacer washers, ensuring proper dimensional and clearance setups. Kinda like reinventing the wheel...
 
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