Ok! Two of those washers (b and g) are 2mm. May need to order more than one...
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Clutch reassembly video/ worm mechanism question video
- Thread starter Vonturd
- Start date
Ok! Two of those washers (b and g) are 2mm. May need to order more than one...
For this kind of work, you need a caliper. Here's one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-digital-caliper-with-metric-and-sae-fractional-readings-68304.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-digital-caliper-with-metric-and-sae-fractional-readings-68304.html
its not just a question of assembling the clutch in the correct order.
It is essential that all the components are measured to make certain that they are the correct thickness and size and the right part for your model years clutch.
There a many different components for the various clutches used throughout the XS650 range and some components can easily be fitted to the wrong clutch .
Heres the correct assembly sequence for a 79 Special ll . I believe all the components pictured are correct for your bike provided no incorrect parts have been added . Note the thickness of the various plates and washers which should be measured with a micrometer.
You should replace the original needle race bearing its almost certainly worn out and invest in the uprated needle race set shown which you should be able to source from mikesxs.
I've added a video I made last year of my clutch installation which may contain something that may be of help.
Attachments
Peanut! Love that clutch parts pic!
Could you please confirm the order of your parts #9 and #10?
And, fyi, the length of #3 is 30mm...
Could you please confirm the order of your parts #9 and #10?
And, fyi, the length of #3 is 30mm...
thanks 2many I did it last year when I put my first xs together . Thanks for the measurement. I hadn't realised that I had neglected to add the bush length until you pointed it out.
I placed my locktab washer on first No9 then the plain washer No10
My reasoning was that when torquing the locknut up the rotational friction might have damaged the delicate locktab washer if it was next to the nut.
Which way do you fit these ?
I placed my locktab washer on first No9 then the plain washer No10
My reasoning was that when torquing the locknut up the rotational friction might have damaged the delicate locktab washer if it was next to the nut.
Which way do you fit these ?
That makes perfect sense to me as well, and would be the way I'd do it. Saw some banter on this in older threads and wondered if there was ever a consensus. I don't recall this unusual arrangement ever being used on Hondas or other bikes of that period, and don't recall ever having to service a loose hubnut.
Mine are the oldest style: thick flatwasher, lockwasher, nut.
Vonturd
XS650 Addict
With the correct amount of torque on the clutch nut will the inner hub spin, or not spin freely?
You will need something to hold it.
Mikes has an example on his site.
Pete(Pamco) did a bolt up version using the metal plates from the clutch. Some have used a strap type filter wrench.
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Mikes has an example on his site.
Pete(Pamco) did a bolt up version using the metal plates from the clutch. Some have used a strap type filter wrench.
Posted via Mobile
Brian902
XS650 Junkie
Vonturd,
if you are referring to #4 in Peanut's pic, yes it must spin freely, otherwise something is installed incorrectly.
Nice picture Peanut, I've already stole a copy. ha ha ha
if you are referring to #4 in Peanut's pic, yes it must spin freely, otherwise something is installed incorrectly.
Nice picture Peanut, I've already stole a copy. ha ha ha
Vonturd
XS650 Addict
Peanut...... in post #43 You mention 6 steel plates and 7 friction plates..... With mine if I add that 7th plate it barley sits on the inner hub. I assuming thats not how its supposed to be? I'm assuming my clutch is set up to be 5 steel and 6 friction.
If you compare your hub assembly with the '80s clutch parts fiche in post #35, and confirm that you have parts #5 thru #9, then 6-friction 5-steel would be correct. Double check the thicknesses of your plates...
Vonturd
XS650 Addict
Ok guys. Discovered something new. I looked up my serial number on my bike. It's an 1980-1981 XS-H special 2. So I was incorrect about the year. I was to believe it was a 79.
Well I tried something for shits and giggles.
I put the clutch together the way my manual says to. What I discovered was I could shift into gears. ( the bike was not running of course ). When I put it into gear the bike would obviously not move because it was in gear. That's the first time I have been able to get my bike to do that.
I then took the clutch apart and assembled the washers the way you guys told me. ( by the way I do have the correct size washers. ) and now since doing that, the bike will shift, but not go into gear. It will shift but the gears will not engage so the bike moves freely in gear. I then tried kicking it over by hand so I wouldn't damage anything internally and the kick has zero resistance. It goes straight down, obviously not catching any gears.
What is wrong??? Should I give up and sell this to someone who's an expert? I don't have the money to take it to someone, and on top of that finding a mechanic that knows how to work on these are hard to come by.
I know live in charleston SC. By any chance does any of you guys live remotley close to me that could come help? I know that's a long shot, but it's worth s
Asking.
What should I do now? Am I missing something?
Well I tried something for shits and giggles.
I put the clutch together the way my manual says to. What I discovered was I could shift into gears. ( the bike was not running of course ). When I put it into gear the bike would obviously not move because it was in gear. That's the first time I have been able to get my bike to do that.
I then took the clutch apart and assembled the washers the way you guys told me. ( by the way I do have the correct size washers. ) and now since doing that, the bike will shift, but not go into gear. It will shift but the gears will not engage so the bike moves freely in gear. I then tried kicking it over by hand so I wouldn't damage anything internally and the kick has zero resistance. It goes straight down, obviously not catching any gears.
What is wrong??? Should I give up and sell this to someone who's an expert? I don't have the money to take it to someone, and on top of that finding a mechanic that knows how to work on these are hard to come by.
I know live in charleston SC. By any chance does any of you guys live remotley close to me that could come help? I know that's a long shot, but it's worth s
Asking.
What should I do now? Am I missing something?
it looks pretty likely that this issue revolves around tolerance or measurement.
You really do need to measure the thickness of all the steel clutch plates and all the drive plates with a micrometer and tell us what you have.
There are different thicknesses used in different model years and its quite possible that your clutch has been built using incorrect parts.
Two many thought that the clutch basket might not be a standard measurement or have been modified in some way and I concur. If the clutch plates do not fit into the clutch basket with room to spare something is wrong . Either the plates are the wrong thickness or the clutch basket fingers are too short .
If you look closely at my clutch you'll see how the whole assembly should look
You really do need to measure the thickness of all the steel clutch plates and all the drive plates with a micrometer and tell us what you have.
There are different thicknesses used in different model years and its quite possible that your clutch has been built using incorrect parts.
Two many thought that the clutch basket might not be a standard measurement or have been modified in some way and I concur. If the clutch plates do not fit into the clutch basket with room to spare something is wrong . Either the plates are the wrong thickness or the clutch basket fingers are too short .
If you look closely at my clutch you'll see how the whole assembly should look
Attachments
Vonturd
XS650 Addict
I see. The problem is I don't have a micrometer right now. I'm in between jobs so i haven't spent money on the things I need for my bike right now. I've been hoping to do what I can on my bike before needing to buy parts. But since my bike is an 80 I believe I need 6 plates and 5 steel. Maybe I can go have my plates measured at a shop somewhere
the thickness of your plates is likely to be the crux of your problem.
Every single plate needs to be measured not just a couple.
Twomany gave you a link to a $9 micrometer at Walmart
You cannot do any sensible testing and setting up on a bike without one .
Do you know any shooters ? anyone that reloads their own ammo will have a micrometer you might be able to borrow
Every single plate needs to be measured not just a couple.
Twomany gave you a link to a $9 micrometer at Walmart
You cannot do any sensible testing and setting up on a bike without one .
Do you know any shooters ? anyone that reloads their own ammo will have a micrometer you might be able to borrow
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Vonturd
XS650 Addict
My apologies peanut. I must have overlooked the comment that two many made about the micrometer. I will pick one up tomorrow. I do grasp the concept of measuring these guys, I have just been going through everything before it got to this point. But hey...... No excuses. I'm assuming in the clutch tech section there are the correct specs for the proper thickness of my plates?
if you look in the 'tech' section you'll find information and specifications about every aspect of these bikes There are lots of tips and installation guides .
Have a look under the section on clutches
heres a good picture of an 80-81 clutch you can compare with your own. You can see how much space the plates take up and the space left on the basket fingers
Have a look under the section on clutches
heres a good picture of an 80-81 clutch you can compare with your own. You can see how much space the plates take up and the space left on the basket fingers
Attachments
Auto parts stores (O'Reillys/Autozone) usually have tools to borrow.
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Vonturd
XS650 Addict
Hey guys. I was out of town for a bit so I had to put my bike on hold.
I came back and bought the tool to measure my plates and washers to see if they were the correct size. You all told me that should be my next step....... Well now I'm even more stressed. The friction plates, the steel plates are all the absolute correct size. I measured all of them in in various places to make sure they were consistent and they are all brand new. They are perfectly fine.
I measured my washers...... same thing, they were the correct size. I measured the 30mm spacer, and thats correct as well. I even measured the springs and those are correct.
What now guys?
I came back and bought the tool to measure my plates and washers to see if they were the correct size. You all told me that should be my next step....... Well now I'm even more stressed. The friction plates, the steel plates are all the absolute correct size. I measured all of them in in various places to make sure they were consistent and they are all brand new. They are perfectly fine.
I measured my washers...... same thing, they were the correct size. I measured the 30mm spacer, and thats correct as well. I even measured the springs and those are correct.
What now guys?
