Clutch Spring Cap Screw Modification

Yes, 7 ft/lbs. The threaded portion of the screw is only a 6mm diameter so you use the torque spec for 6mm fasteners.

Now for a hand impact tip - shop eBay for a used Vessel. These are the Cadillacs of hand impacts, in fact I think Vessel invented them. When I was a kid and first started riding, a hand impact was one of the first tools I bought, along with a metric socket set. I knew I needed it because of reading all the bike magazines at the time. It was well documented in them that a hand impact was a "must have" tool for removing all the little case screws without buggering them up. This is still true today. You need one of these.

The local hardware store had one for $6 or $8 and I bought it. I didn't realize back then how good I'd done because this impact turned out to be a Vessel. I still have it today, over 40 years later, and it still works as good as the day I bought it. Vessel still makes the exact same one except now it costs like $75, lol. You can pick them up used on eBay for like $10 to $15. I know, I bought several more to supplement my supply. And believe it or not, a couple of them look like they've never even been hit with a hammer. What you're looking for is the Vessel No. 2500.
 
I just checked and there are none listed at the moment but keep checking, they do come up. The thing is, on the several I got I was the only bidder. I guess folks don't realize or know just what a fine tool this is. We'll just keep that our little secret, lol.

Wait, it appears I spoke too soon, here you go, best $20 you'll ever spend .....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ves...l-Metal-Box-4-bits-instructions-/111116714869
 
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Thanks!

I'll check it out. Is there anything special (size?) about the bits i.e., can any other bits be used as well?
 
Hand impact bits are 5/16" hex, not 1/4" hex like all those cordless screwdriver bits. The 5/16" ones are readily available though. MikesXS even sells them. In fact, you may want to get a set of the longer ones. Sometimes they're needed to reach into tight spots .....

http://www.mikesxs.net/product/35-0110.html
 
I like the idea of converting to sleeved/shouldered hex screws for a couple of reasons. First, controlled torque. Second, more importantly I believe, is eliminating the shock on the clutch hub/boss. Imagine a series of PO's, over many years, doing clutch work, using heavy-handed over-smacking to remove/install those phillips screws. 5T has shown some examples of thread stretch, and boogered headslots, which leads me to believe some serious/overzealous smacking has been going on. Haven't seen any examples of cracked/separated hub/bosses here yet, but awhile back, NONclow mentioned something about possible hub-spline separation. If these things are to last another 40 years, maybe it's time to stop the smacking...
 
I never even considered that but maybe you're right.
 
Would M6 X 40mm stainless be better than regular steel socket head screws. I have to order them just thought stainless might be better. I know they will be bathed in oil so rusting won't be an issue.
 
No, I would stick with the plain steel, black oxide finish even (no need for cad or zinc plating). The steel ones are stronger than the stainless steel ones. Unless you're ordering a quantity bag (like 25) because you need them elsewhere externally like on the covers. Stainless would work OK but there's no need for it in this application. They won't be better than steel functionally, they'll probably just cost more.
 
Lots more dinero for the stainless. Wouldn't the 40 mm bolts be a tad short?
I guess that would depend on if or how much you recessed the "cap"?
And if you recess the cap aren't you reducing the shoulder strength of the cap/bushing?
 
Use 40s, 45s are too long and stick out the back of the hub, digging into the outer hub. Use the 40s along with grinding the "dome" off the top of the original screw (now your spacer) and the length works out perfectly. Here's some pics .....

2atECtq.jpg


doz86XB.jpg


sSr1yjf.jpg
 
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Perfect. I'm kinda in a toss up here now. Arsed up a screw and have to special order the cap screws. Need to get another pressure plate screw as well. Holiday coming. Damn you Easter Bunny. I Love/Hate waiting for stuff in the mail.
 
Use 40s, 45s are too long and stick out the back of the hub, digging into the outer hub. Use the 40s along with grinding the "dome" off the top of the original screw (now your spacer) and the length works out perfectly. Here's some pics .....

AllCompared.jpg


AllCompared2.jpg


All-Installed.jpg

What's the trick in getting the heads ground down nice and equal?
 
I held them against a 6" grinder with a new disc in it (still all nice and square).
 
I replaced my clutch this weekend, and I made this mod to my clutch bolts. I also enjoyed the luxury of doing it at my brother's machine shop where I used a lathe to drill out the hole and remove the old threads.

In a nod to Mother's Day, when done I handed the old threads that look like studs and said, "Much like our mom, I've been making homemade studs." :doh:

Love the site and all the great ideas, minds, and projects!
 
ok trying to get the my crank shaft so im down to literally just taking my clutch off and not a single screw will turn and ive taken an impact drill to them and im not going to go any furthur and completely round these assholes out. so has anybody tried anything else that works with these little spawns of satan? i dont have access to a hand impact wrech at the moment....so any other words of wisdom? these things wont budge!! thanks.
 
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