Crap...

Downeaster

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That is all...
 
You know thats right
At least it's not a Z rated tire unless you fix it yourself.
no patching tires here in Florida.
And no tubes in Z rated tires.
at least you can put a tube in that tire.
I went 2 years without a flat and BAM! 4 ofem in as little months.
I was out and about on the weekend getting a flat that one ended up costing me $250:(
 
ouch....bluddy builders lol:laugh::D

Whenever you see a builders truck theres always a stream of crap blowing off the back....:D
 
You know thats right
<snip>
I went 2 years without a flat and BAM! 4 ofem in as little months.
I was out and about on the weekend getting a flat that one ended up costing me $250:(

Not counting dirt bikes, this is my second flat in 46 years. I guess I shouldn't bitch. Also, it didn't go flat while I was actually riding. I'd gone to the bank and when I came back out and started to paddle the bike back out of the parking space I noticed it was pushing awfully hard.

Had to have BiL come over and fetch me, go home, get the truck and trailer and go back and fetch the bike. PITA, but it could have been a LOT worse...
 
We never patch a tube for a street bike, off-road bikes a different story.

Seen too many tubes split link a run in your wife's nylons.

Not good for either party. ha ha ha
 
- - - Had to have BiL come over and fetch me, go home, get the truck and trailer and go back and fetch the bike. PITA, but it could have been a LOT worse...

Hi Downeaster,
WhyTF you running tube tires on a cast wheel?
Us tubeless guys whip the can of tire snot out of the saddlebag, reinflate the tire and ride the bike home for a plug job.
 
Hi Downeaster,
WhyTF you running tube tires on a cast wheel?
Us tubeless guys whip the can of tire snot out of the saddlebag, reinflate the tire and ride the bike home for a plug job.

Because, as far as I can tell, the wheel is not rated for tubeless tires. I seem to recall reading somewhere on this forum that if it IS rated for tubeless, it will say so, cast into one of the spokes.

Also, it says right on the tire to use a tube if the rim isn't rated for tubeless tires.

Am I confused?
 
All the mfr's BS is marked on the spokes in big fat raised cast lettering.
The legend saying if the wheel is OK for tubeless tires is letter-stamped into one of the spoke webs in smaller writing.
You may have to give the wheel a good scrub before you can see it.
 
Shove a tar string in that bitch and finish the season. You only have like, 3-4 weeks left anyway, then put the hard fix on it over the 7 month winter. Kinda hard with a tube in it though. I'd check hard for the mark in the pic above.
 
Okay, update.

1. Barring early snow, I'll be riding well into October, if not early November.

2. I re-re-rechecked the '79 wheels. No "suitable" markings.

3. My other brain cell woke up temporarily and I checked the wheels off the '80 I bought for parts. Clearly marked as suitable for tubeless tires.

At this point, I've already bought a tube and I don't see a lot of point in going through the effort of pulling the old tire off the '80 rim, transferring the good(ish) tire off the '79 to the '80 rim and swapping sprockets just so I can run on a plugged tire. Then there's the question of a rotor with different wear patterns and what it might do to existing pads.

So, I'll be stuffing that new tube in the existing wheel/tire and when it's time to put new shoes on the bike I'll switch rims as well.
 
We were told at a service school back in the late 70's that early aluminum mag wheels were porous and could leak air, thus the requirement for a tube.

Later ones marked tubeless have a special sealant mix that takes care of the problem.

Always use a tube unless you see the markings.
 
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