Cylinder Head Swap

The torque spec is 19.5. Hugh, I was a few miles out from the house n I thought I could make it back before anything happened. Made it just maybe 5 miles out when it all came apart in there. The piece that goes in that hole there really doesn't fit back in very nicely and I also did some damage to the valve stems ends in those few miles so I'm looking for a new head and cover set that I complete. So far I've found a set for $80 just waiting to seen a pic of it before I buy it.
 
Here's a couple pics of them.
 

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I've heard paint stripper works, oven cleaner too. I would get a set of the brass brushes you put in a drill. That's what I use.
When you get your new head it might be a good time to mod the rocker arms for the Porsche elephant foot valve adjusters. I did the rockers on my 75. I like them. Easy to adjust. The stock ball end adjusters wear flats on the ball and pit the valve stem. This makes getting a good adjustment tough. A feeler gauge can't flex enough to fit the pitting.
With the elephant foot adjusters the foot is flat and just a bit bigger than the valve stem. This prevents pitting. With two flat surfaces getting the correct gap is easy.
They run quieter than the stock adjusters.
Leo
 
Well, I finally got my motorcycle back together. I didn't end up take out the pistons but did clean the top. Got some oven cleaner and that pretty much did the trick. It was cool yesterday, my bike actually moved without having to push it around like I did all winter. Special thanks to Rick, nj1639, for the donation of a cylinder head. Now I can start to work on all the other things I wanted to do to my bike in the first place.
 

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Just for clarification all the engines from 74 up are all 447 engines and most of the parts interchange. There are a few things that interchange as a complete assembly. Cam chain tensioner, is one. Carbs another.
Leo
 
Hey all. Reading thru trying to find an answer to my problem. I have an 80 xs650 with a bad cylinder head valve cover stud (front, right). It looks like someone broke the original then did a bad job of replacing it. The replacement was loose allowing oil to escape making a smokey mess. I retapped the hole on the cylinder head from a 6mm stud to a 8mm stud but I can tell its a little crooked. This means I'm going to have to drill the valve cover crooked to accommodate. Lots of work. I just read xsLeo write that most of these engine parts are interchangeable. To save myself more trouble I was thinking of preemptively just changing out the cylinder head. However, after reading that these are machined parts I'm not sure. I'm not only getting past my $$$ funds but my skill to fix the existing problem. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Yes, to do the job right, you will want a matching top cover and head. How do you know? The two parts are stamped on the front between the exhaust valve covers with matching numbers .....

Head-CoverNumbers.jpg


A cover and head that are not matched may not fit together correctly. The top and bottom halves of the valve cover openings and cam bearing bores may not align perfectly.
 
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