delete this

I'm guessing that his kick only, battery elimination, probably never was a working mod. The best way to find a wiring diagram to match the bike is to compare the diagram to what is actually on your bike, that may turn out to be the year before, or the year after your manufacture date. My '74 is a better match to the '73.

Scott
 
Many people have mounted tires tubeless on tube mags, wouldn't do it myself. Are you sure that there isn't a tube in there? Nothing wrong with using a tubeless tire with a tube, that's just how it's done, tubeless tires can be used both ways, on both types of rims, with or without tubes.

Tubeless tire with a tube on tube type rims.

Tubeless tire with or without a tube on tubeless type rims.

Scott
 
It is a later model but not a really late one. There were big electrical changes from the 1980 model on. Those diagrams probably won't help you much and may only confuse you more. Here's a "clean" pic of the electrics under the right side cover. Disregard the single fuse to the left of the solenoid. My bike is a Standard model and that's what it came with, a single fuse not a bank of 4. You have a safety relay, I see it in one of your pics. It's the gold colored tin box below the solenoid .....

Electrics-Right.jpg
 
thats what I figured out too scott.I am assuming his mods did not work,or he was just too lazy,too broke, or just wanted to appear manly and tried making them. Whatever, thats not the way I am headed.I compared the diagrams for early model and late model.To my untrained eyes they look the same. And fwiw the schematics are actually starting to make sense.One thing is helpful I have not seen before in a manual is if wire #10 goes from point a to point b they have it numbered all along its route to help keep track of it. Good for guys like me.
 
This is not a rant, this is fact, and worth knowing........Yamaha DID NOT share their copy rights and publications with the independent manual publishers as the other brands did. Because of this there are errors, errors in Yamaha publications and errors in other manuals, fiches and EVERY THING. At the same time, some independent publications are more accurate. So... sometimes, it's a toss-up.

Scott
 
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Yup - that is what I have found too. It's a darned good thing that the 650 is a fairly simple motorcycle (no fancy electronics or anything).
 
MaxPete said:
Yup - that is what I have found too. It's a darned good thing that the 650 is a fairly simple motorcycle (no fancy electronics or anything).
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Yes to both of you. I found that on gs forums and others. Printers dont proofread.It is yamahas job to do that.I doubt yamaha print their own books.But for the most part I have found them to be accurate.I have owned both haynes and clymer, i prefer clymer.
 
Mostly, I've liked Clymer's over Haynes. If the guys writing the manuals had a real interest in the bikes they were writing about, then they wrote a good manual, RD350 and 1000cc GoldWing manuals were some good ones that Clymer wrote with lots of extra info.

But most manuals I picture two guys drinking coffee and munching on donuts, guessing at how to disassemble and reassemble instead of actually doing it.

Scott
 
mrtwowheel said:
Mostly, I've liked Clymer's over Haynes. If the guys writing the manuals had a real interest in the bikes they were writing about, then they wrote a good manual, RD350 and 1000cc GoldWing manuals were some good ones that Clymer wrote with lots of extra info.

But most manuals I picture two guys drinking coffee and munching on donuts, guessing at how to disassemble and reassemble instead of actually doing it.

Scott
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I owned 3 oldwings.I had a real good manual for them as you say.rd350.wow.My first bike was a 72 r5c.
 
5twins said:
It is a later model but not a really late one. There were big electrical changes from the 1980 model on. Those diagrams probably won't help you much and may only confuse you more. Here's a "clean" pic of the electrics under the right side cover. Disregard the single fuse to the left of the solenoid. My bike is a Standard model and that's what it came with, a single fuse not a bank of 4. You have a safety relay, I see it in one of your pics. It's the gold colored tin box below the solenoid .....

Electrics-Right.jpg
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thanks for id of the box.I was wondering.I see the r/w and b/w.Mine has those still thankfully.The big cable on the right goes to your starter? No wire from the battery under that post? if so which one red or black.What cable is under the left post.It looks like solid red from positive side of battery.
 
ron bayless said:
I stand corrected.The fuse panel is on the diagram.My question is this considered a late model or early? I know the series of engine number decides.I have to clean the thing to be able to see it.But year model should also answer this question.And how did he mount a tubeless on a tube only mag?
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Hi Ron,
I reckon there's 4 XS650 age groups.
Real early; up to '73 when they were still sorting things out.
Early; '74 thru '76 which was the last of the 34mm fork tube models.
Late; '77 thru '79 which had 35mm fork tubes, a different front brake caliper and disk or drum rear brake options.
Extra-late; '80 & newer which had TCI sparks & lift-off seats.
And there's the Special II's which are their own sub-set.
And how to mount a tubeless tire on a tube rim? Install the tire and pump it up.
Check the pressure every now and then for a month or so.
If the pressure stays the same it'll be OK.
 
Yes, big cable on the right runs down to the starter. No other wires connect to that post. Big cable on the left runs up to the battery positive terminal. No other wires connect there either but that heavy cable should have a smaller red wire branching off it. That's the power feed from the battery to your fuse box and then up to the ignition switch. The upper heavy cable, the one that runs up to the battery, is rather short. You must route it inside the frame and out an oval hole behind the battery terminal for it to reach .....

PosBatCable.jpg
 
5twins said:
Yes, big cable on the right runs down to the starter. No other wires connect to that post. Big cable on the left runs up to the battery positive terminal. No other wires connect there either but that heavy cable should have a smaller red wire branching off it. That's the power feed from the battery to your fuse box and then up to the ignition switch. The upper heavy cable, the one that runs up to the battery, is rather short. You must route it inside the frame and out an oval hole behind the battery terminal for it to reach .....

PosBatCable.jpg
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that is a great answer.Thanks.
 
I am having so much fun.2 of the screws were rusted and not removeable from lid of my master cylinder.I found a small easy out. that did not work.I found a small drill bit, got the head off one screw,some of the threads remained.So I went to the other screw.not only did i not get it out but I drilled completely through the MC.I have bought one off ebay just now.I love working on old bikes.Usually after you spend about 2,000 on the $100 barn find you wind up selling it for $100 on craigslist.Not this time.I am in it to win it. Dumb cliche.
 
A little off topic but tubeless tires and rims were mentioned, so I guess I'm not too far out.
I was actually surprised while cleaning the cast rims up to install them on my 1982 Heritage II that the rear cast rim was marked "Suitable for Tubeless Tires" but the front I had was not. So that is how I installed the tires, tubeless rear and tube in front.
 
not off topic at all.I mentioned several things.I had made the observation.Anyone responding to any of it is good by me.I wonder what the difference is front to back.I definitely will continue tubeless in the rear.
 
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