Did I just drill something out that is not supose to be?

Uhhhhh look at the diagram gggGary posted, you drilled into the top of an intersection, turning DOWN. Chips be falling down that oil passage due to a thing called gravity.
 
Uhhhhh look at the diagram gggGary posted, you drilled into the top of an intersection, turning DOWN. Chips be falling down that oil passage due to a thing called gravity.

I love your enthusiasm my friend, however I believe that to be incorrect.
If you revisit my picture on the first page it looks like it goes down but that is actually the angle I took everything at.

That oil passages travels straight to the right to the second port I almost drilled into.
Then on roughly a 45 deg angle it travels down into the trans area.

In that oil diagram it does look like it travels straight down but that's due to the plane the drawing was taken from.
 
I think hes saying metal fell down the highligted oil passage .. if what your saying is tru about your pic angle .. unless your engine was upside down metal went down this passage

But its your engine .. your money do what you want but the advice given by TeeCat is probably you best solution .. why not take the time to do it right ? if your going to ask for help ?
 

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As I see you already removed the engine from the frame, I would open the complete engine to be shure you don't get metal particles in your roller(cranck)bearing.
When everything is ok this will cost you a set of gaskets and evt. some new seals.
If metal stays in your engine, this will cost you a lot more in the near future.
Its perhaps possible to use compressed air to clean the lubtication system from the smal filter side to the left side, to check if all the oil chanels are open (also the ones to your big-ends) I for myself should make a alumin plug with some locktite to seal again.
The plug should not be longer than about 10mm (sorry I'm used to metric sizes)
 
See if you can get a sheet metal screw or lag threaded in the hole and work the plug out, that will;
Make it easier to see, remove any "chunks"
Tell you exactly how deep your new plug should be.
Let you put in a new plug with no hole thorough it. I am guessing the hole is stepped so the original plug would only go in so far.
 
Got all the chips out that I could see/blow/suck out. Took the clutch side off and shined a light down the hole. looks clean, I cant tell what might of fell down any of the other passages obviously but it looks clean. I got a bunch of nice size chinks out with the grease trick.
Its an aluminum plug so I feel safer knowing that and any aluminum might pass through the system without too much damage.

I am prob going to jb weld it and call it a day, jbweld along with the backing of the stator cover should be some good support.
 
Oil is pumped into an oil gallery from the other side of your engine. This gallery feeds oil up to the head and into the big rod ends.
That hole you drilled is in this end of the oil gallery. The oil passage that goes downward feeds oil to the crank bearing on this side. Any debris in that passage will go right into the crank bearing.
The oil passage going back feeds oil into the transmission. Oiling the bearings on that side of the tranny. Debris in this passage will get into those bearings.
It's your engine, do you want debris in the crank and tranny bearings?
If not I might suggest splitting the cases and cleaning those passages out.
Remove all the old plug.
While you have the cases split, take it with you to a parts store. Engines have plugs of various sizes to seal the oil galleries and water jacket. Find one that is tight enough to need tapping in with a bit of persuasion. A thin coat of JB Weld on the plug, tap in place.
This should seal the passage.
Leo
 
The one in your red circle is an alignment plug, a cover bolt goes through there to hold the cover in place.
Leo
 
Oil is pumped into an oil gallery from the other side of your engine. This gallery feeds oil up to the head and into the big rod ends.
That hole you drilled is in this end of the oil gallery. The oil passage that goes downward feeds oil to the crank bearing on this side. Any debris in that passage will go right into the crank bearing.
The oil passage going back feeds oil into the transmission. Oiling the bearings on that side of the tranny. Debris in this passage will get into those bearings.
It's your engine, do you want debris in the crank and tranny bearings?
If not I might suggest splitting the cases and cleaning those passages out.
Remove all the old plug.
While you have the cases split, take it with you to a parts store. Engines have plugs of various sizes to seal the oil galleries and water jacket. Find one that is tight enough to need tapping in with a bit of persuasion. A thin coat of JB Weld on the plug, tap in place.
This should seal the passage.
Leo

+1 on what Leo said. This is the only way you can be sure you don't destroy your motor. Remember there is always a possibility that metal shavings could damage the motor in such a way that it seizes up somehow while riding and that means that your rear wheel will just lock up. This is obviously very dangerous and a bad thing. Its really a worse case scenario short of something miraculously shooting thru the motor and into your leg or something (very unlikely).

Don't take the chance that could ruin all of your hard work. And if its way beyond your comfort level or experience there are plenty of people out there who are capable of rebuilding these motors. Plus you get almost a brand new motor when you are done with the rebuild process.
 
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