Disassembling the head......how to slacken this nut??

BigBoreSwede

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Hello.

Got the engine out of the frame today and made a enginestand out of wood since I´m working as a carpenter. Had th adjust the stand a few times and damm......the engine is heavy.

Anyway......started out by reading the manual from Haynes and work my way to this nut that seems to be stuck (the "last" picture). Or actually the problem is I don´t have any idea to prevent the engine from rotating.
Since my konwledge in both engines and english are at an intermediate level it´s very hard for me to explain but maybe a picture or two might help:shrug:

The manual isn´t that helpful at this particular part since this "rod" that is held by this nut isn´t even shown at the cutaway wiew?! As far as I understand it runs inside the camshaft.

Ohh....by the way. I´m have the Boyer Ignition setup.

Thanks to you all!
/BigBoreSwede
 

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My eyes want to say left hand too? Usually that is the shaft connecting the points can and centrfigal advance plate together. Since it looks like you have an electronic ignition kit on this it must hold in the trigger plate on the left side of the head, the old points location. Try searching for a Boyer ignition parts bearkdown. Probably need to hold the left side assembly and losen the nut. Just be sure what direction.
 
On the Boyer the stock advancer parts are not used. That nut and rod are just used the hold the Boyer Rotor to the cam. It was probably lock tighted on the rotor end and the nut. Heating the nut can soften the lock tight. After it's hot you can hold the rotor end and maybe get the nut loose. If not it can stay there. Just take out the three screws in each housing, left off the rocker box, break the cam chain, lift out the cam with the housings and rod intact.
 
Alright...thanks alot!!

First time I do this and it´s really exciting and with all the good advices that you get from this awsome forum it´s even more fun!


/BigBoreSwede
 
Hello.

I managed to slacken the nut, it´s a right hand thread. Actually the whole shaft is a threaded rod?! I do go with Boyer system but it feels "homemade"?


I´m able to turn the rod inside the camshaft even if it´s thigten up, that makes me wondering. How am I suppose to get the timing right when it´s not possible to get the rod and the camshaft in-line :confused:

/BigBoreSwede
 

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Yeah that rod does feel a little cheap, but it works just fine. It only serves to hold the rotor in the correct position on the end of the cam. You get the timing right by putting the engine at TDC on the left cylinder, then tightening that nut on the rod when one of the magnets on the rotor is located just behind the peep hole in the boyer pick-up plate. That gets you close enough to make it run, then you rotate the plate forward or back to get the timing just right. I think I made that sound harder than it really is.
 
Getting bolts made to do the job can get costly. A piece of all thread is much cheaper to use.
 
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