pyroman
Pyroman
I JB WELDED a broken cooling fin back onto a Kawasaki years ago, after a good cleaning with carb cleaner. I never expected it to hold, but it is still on there.
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It should not be there!!!!!!
- Thread starter BigBoreSwede
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BigBoreSwede
XS650 Addict
This has taken a TURN FOR THE WORSE
During the summer I have always had this drop of oil hanging from one of the cooling fins and some oil on the cable to the ignitionplate (or what´s it called) on the left side.
I have been looking all summer but have never really saw an obvious spot where the oil would come from so I started to think that the oil might come from somewhere in the front of the engine and would travel back due to the airspeed
Yesterday I was in the garage when the thought just came to me and my bones turned to ice!!! Maybe this bloody nut has cracked an open hole in my cylinder head. That´s why I could not find the oilleak.......maybe?!
I started to look around and this is what I found! A piece as big as the nut has been pushed out by 1-2 mm.
So now what
JB??
/BigBoreSwede
During the summer I have always had this drop of oil hanging from one of the cooling fins and some oil on the cable to the ignitionplate (or what´s it called) on the left side.
I have been looking all summer but have never really saw an obvious spot where the oil would come from so I started to think that the oil might come from somewhere in the front of the engine and would travel back due to the airspeed
Yesterday I was in the garage when the thought just came to me and my bones turned to ice!!! Maybe this bloody nut has cracked an open hole in my cylinder head. That´s why I could not find the oilleak.......maybe?!
I started to look around and this is what I found! A piece as big as the nut has been pushed out by 1-2 mm.
So now what
JB??/BigBoreSwede
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With all the work that went into making it a 750, the head is probably ported and polished. I think I would try to salvage that head.
You can try grinding the head where the nut pushed the metal about 2-4 mm deep, and 2-4 mm larger than the nut. This will give you a good surface to patch over with JB Weld.
Or you can drill a hole through where the nut pushed metal through. Drill the hole large enough to remove the damage. Thread it to accept a Allen head set screw. Or make one from a bolt. Coat the set screw with JB Weld and screw it in place. The set screw will fill the hole and the JB Weld will seal it from leaking.
Or get it all welded up.
I think the JB Weld fixes will be strong enough. Those places don't get a lot of stress. Not like the bearing supports or something like that.
You can try grinding the head where the nut pushed the metal about 2-4 mm deep, and 2-4 mm larger than the nut. This will give you a good surface to patch over with JB Weld.
Or you can drill a hole through where the nut pushed metal through. Drill the hole large enough to remove the damage. Thread it to accept a Allen head set screw. Or make one from a bolt. Coat the set screw with JB Weld and screw it in place. The set screw will fill the hole and the JB Weld will seal it from leaking.
Or get it all welded up.
I think the JB Weld fixes will be strong enough. Those places don't get a lot of stress. Not like the bearing supports or something like that.
TwoJugs
Excess XS
Hey XSLeo, do you work for JB weld?
No, but I love the stuff. It fixes almost anything.
pyroman
Pyroman
I'm with You, Leo, JB WELD is da titz. And, its made in TEXAS!!! Seriously, My workbench always has a supply of JB WELD and JB QUICK. If You have never used the Quick formula, it comes in handy when You don't want to wait for the longer cure time. You can mix it a little "hot" for using in awkward spots where the regular mix may run out before curing. I usually set the repair out in the sun for a couple hours if possible. I believe the UV cures it even better.
Tim H
XS650 Enthusiast
I agree with the jb weld. I typically drill a few small holes when I patch something like that on both sides so that the jb can flow through and connect to itself.
Also drill a tiny hole at the end of any cracks to prevent the crack from spreading.
If this thing was running fine when you tore it down I can't see any of those cracks causing you a problem.
Also drill a tiny hole at the end of any cracks to prevent the crack from spreading.
If this thing was running fine when you tore it down I can't see any of those cracks causing you a problem.
It's my understanding that the entire head (both pieces) as one unit should be used due to the factory machining, best not to mix and match. Not trying to piss on your VERY generous offer.
I layed a XS down hard on the clutch side years ago and punctured a hole in the primary cover. I cleaned it off real good and patched it with JB Weld. This cover is exposed to oil all the time. It held for years and was still holding just fine when I finally replaced the cover just for looks. I love that stuff.
jefft
jefft
TwoJugs
Excess XS
Just busting Leo. Yes it is great stuff. I have some on my shelf next to the 5 minute epoxy, superglue and duct tape.
JB Weld works as a filler for powdercoating as long as you use the regular stuff, the Quick can't take the heat from baking.
BigBoreSwede
XS650 Addict
I should have named this thread "It should not be there.......but JB weld should!!"
/BigBoreSwede
/BigBoreSwede
Wildwillyjohn
XS650 Enthusiast
Why not just heli arc weld the cracks and do it right.go slow a little at a time .
BigBoreSwede
XS650 Addict
Hello.
Today I decided to fix the broken head.
First I grinded the area around the damage for a good surface for the JB to tag on to. Then I made grooves where the cracking is.
After cleaning it all up and disassembling the valves/guides I cleaned the area with aceton and then got it real dry with the heat gun.
I decided to apply the JB BEFORE putting the head back in the oven preparing it for the valve guide install. During the install I´ll drive the guides and I think that will be a good test for the JB. Both heat and some pounding.
Let´s see what´s happening during the guide install.....
Jamesgs4.....the "other" head will serve a greater purpose!! I have decided to port that one along with some other mods. next winter. For that I want a head in better shape and I´ll always be grateful
/BigBoreSwede
Today I decided to fix the broken head.
First I grinded the area around the damage for a good surface for the JB to tag on to. Then I made grooves where the cracking is.
After cleaning it all up and disassembling the valves/guides I cleaned the area with aceton and then got it real dry with the heat gun.
I decided to apply the JB BEFORE putting the head back in the oven preparing it for the valve guide install. During the install I´ll drive the guides and I think that will be a good test for the JB. Both heat and some pounding.
Let´s see what´s happening during the guide install.....
Jamesgs4.....the "other" head will serve a greater purpose!! I have decided to port that one along with some other mods. next winter. For that I want a head in better shape and I´ll always be grateful
/BigBoreSwede
Attachments
pyroman
Pyroman
That oughta hold forever. JB Weld rules! I just pulled the tranny out of my 74 Sportster, and the floor of the tranny case is coated with JB Weld. Dont know how long that repair has been there, but the JBW is still intact.....
