Does this look right, Wiring Gurus?

[drewbaby88]

I am just trying to make sure I got this all figured out. I know it will be much easier once I start doing it, but I am frying my brain looking at diagrams.

Where do I tie the Starter button into all this? I am using the stock handlebar switch for an 81 that has kill switch and Start button.

Permanent Mag alternator/Pamco

 

[jayel]

like this

 

[drewbaby88]

Thanks, Jayel. I am just proud of myself for getting it somewhere close! I could look at one someone else did, but I had to draw it myself to understand it, if that makes any sense

 

[jayel]

if it helps understand it no problem, might want to move your kill switch location (see pic) the Pamco might not like the power breaking but I could be wrong

 

[gggGary]

Friendly note; the starter switch grounds the solenoid lead. the handle bar ground on a stock bike is part of the turn signal switch set ,without that ground your starter button won't work if the handle bars are still on the stock rubber bushings.

 

[XSLeo]

I might make a change from Jayels diagram. The way the starter button is wired the starter can work with the key off. I might hook the red/white wire to the brown wire after the kill switch. That way the starter will only work when the key and kill switch are on. Thats the only time you need the starter to work.
I have the kill switch as you have in your diagram, kills power to both the Pamco, coil and starter relay. Works well and has for a couple years.
If Pamcopete reads this he may tell us which way works best with his ignition.

 

[jayel]

I might make a change from Jayels diagram. The way the starter button is wired the starter can work with the key off. I might hook the red/white wire to the brown wire after the kill switch. That way the starter will only work when the key and kill switch are on. Thats the only time you need the starter to work.
I have the kill switch as you have in your diagram, kills power to both the Pamco, coil and starter relay. Works well and has for a couple years.
If Pamcopete reads this he may tell us which way works best with his ignition.

good catch leo

 

[drewbaby88]

So, you guys think this is more betterer. I was thinking with the kill where it was power would be cut off to the pamco with that or the key. If it works as you say Leo, then I wouldn't have to worry about leaving a key on and killing the pamco. Good Call on that one. Pete, where are ya buddy?

 

[XSLeo]

I might move the kill switch back over to the brown wire. It will work that way fine.

 

[drewbaby88]

gggGary, how would I wire it to work then? I have different bars, but they are still mounted using the rubber bushings.

 

[gggGary]

You need to ground the handlebars to the ground wire back to the frame you must have in your headlight. I mention that because a headlight/fork ground is ignored in all of these wiring diagrams, you do not want ground going through your steering bearings. A ground ring and wire under one of the handlebar stem nuts beneath the triple tree should work fine.

 

[drewbaby88]

gotcha. I was thinking under the tree as well. I forgot about the head light ground.
Thanks for your help guys!

 

[XSLeo]

On the later, not sure what year, they added the ground wire from the left side switch housing to the harness ground. On the early models, the 75 for sure, grounds the bars by a wire from under the riser nut to one of the top tree clamp bolts. This grounds back to the frame thru the head bearings. It worked well that way and is working fine on my 75. So why don't I want it grounding that way?

 

[gmiller217]

Friendly note; the starter switch grounds the solenoid lead. the handle bar ground on a stock bike is part of the turn signal switch set ,without that ground your starter button won't work if the handle bars are still on the stock rubber bushings.

not so sure about that ... I have four wires to my brake side switch two that have continuity through them with the starter button pushed ... one of those wires would go to the solenoid and the other to a ground (mine was originally at the coil mount) ... The other two wires are to the kill switch ... basically yamaha bypassed any need for the handle bars to be grounded on the later bikes

 

[mrriggs]

I might move the kill switch back over to the brown wire. It will work that way fine.

I agree. There may be times when you want to turn the motor over without energizing the ignition, like when performing a compression test.

 

[XSLeo]

Gmiller, I checked through the diagrams and your right. On the 72 and 73, the first two years of the electric starter, the start button doesn't ground through the handle bars.
Power flows from the safety relay to the start button, when pressed power flows from the start button to the start relay then to ground.
In 74 they changed the wiring so the start button grounded. They diagrams just show a ground, they don't show the ground path. The start button grounds to the bars. on some they ground thru the risers. a wire to the top tree, head bearings to the frame. from the frame to the battery thru the negative cable. Others thru a wire from the left side switches to the harness grounds.
Mrriggs, the way I reccomend the kill switch kills the electric starter as well as the ignition. Same as a stock set up. Your more apt to need the ignition deenergized when doing electrical testing. For the times you need the starter to work with out the ignition I unhook the wire that feeds power to the ignition.
On my 75 I use a relay, as per Pamcopete, to turn the power to the ignition off/on. The relay is controled by the kill switch. On the stock set up if the kill switch gets dirty it can cause starting and running problems. With the relay I can feed battery voltage straight to the ignition. the kill switch turns the relay on/off. Even with a very dirty kill switch the relay still sends full power to the ignition.
This makes it easy to disable the ignition by just pulling the relay from the socket.

 

[drewbaby88]

What if, since I am not using a horn, I got rid of the RH switch all together and only used the LH switch for signals, lights and starter button. If I wired the starter button in there, I could wire the R/W from the solenoid to the pink , and ground the B/W around the solenoid somewhere, correct? Or, does it have to be constant12v, and have to ground to work? This way would make the solenoid always grounded, and only get 12v when I press the button. Will it work that way?

 

[gggGary]

Yomama must have changed this frequently, the H suppliment and the 81 I had open this week just have three wires to the RH switch, two R/W and a L/W the starter switch grounds to the bar. The only bar ground on these is the LH switch ground wire into the headlight shell. I would have to look at an early model but it has long been a no no to ground through a bearing, little sparks as it turns erode the balls and races. I would bet this was the culprit in one of those Smoky Yunik mechanics detective stories in the old Popular Mechanics. At the end he puffs on his pipe and says; yup low alternator fluid level tore up the muffler bearings.

 

[XSLeo]

Using the horn button for the start button will work the same as the start button. If your bike is wired to have the start button ground the circuit then the horn button needs to ground the circuit.

 

[drewbaby88]

It is not wired at all yet. Are you saying it needs to be a ground circuit regardless, or if it is wired that way now, keep it that way? I mean, I could just ground the Br coming out of the switch and wire the solenoid B/W to the switch Pink, but I was just curious if it mattered or not, since the horn button is naturally wired to be a 12v circuit.