False Neutrals and Slipping out of Gear

I'm glad I came across this thread. I never had this problem with any of my 650's, but I do currently have this problem with my '66 Yamaha YG1. I'm gonna pull the side cover and hope it's as simple as a spring!
 
Well, as for my problem, it WAS a spring! someone (probably the PO) had the spring in the wrong spot. I'm actually impressed it shifted at all. Now it shifts like butter! Thanks guys. I was worried it would be a case splitter for me.
 
Just thought I'd add my 2 pen'orth to this old thread. Recently I was experiencing exactly the same symptoms as the OP and had been fearing the worst until I uncovered this thread. With fingers crossed I removed the right hand cover hoping to see a broken or detached spring. No such luck! After studying my dog-eared Haynes manual I decided to remove the clutch assembly to start disassembling and inspecting the shift mechanism. Whilst taking a very good look around before I started I (finally) noticed that the stopper assembly arm that acts on the end of the outer end of the shift drum was missing its detent roller/disc. This is the disc rivetted to the arm. I found the rivet (with the disc's centre bushing still attached) and the slightly chewed disc down behind the starter pinion gear assembly and thanked my lucky stars that neither of them had got between the clutch basket and crank pinion gear teeth! The arm without its detent roller cannot hold the drum (and thence the gears) in place when a gear selection is made which is the same as when the spring breaks or detaches. Same effect, different cause.

So I raided a spare engine of its arm, fitted it, adjusted the gearchange claw, flushed the engine through and cleaned the filters. Interestingly, the Phillips screw that holds the selector assembly to the drum was loose. That probably contributed to the slightly 'woolly' feeling when shifting any gear even before the detent roller broke off. Anyway, it's all done and buttoned up and feels (obviously) amazingly better.
 

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Natek, If the drive chain is way too tight it may lead to shifting issues, It can over load the output shaft bearing, this will wear the bearing out much faster.
If the tension of the chain is severe enough it might even break the case.
Too tight causes excessive wear on the chain and sprockets.
Chain adjustment is easy. While setting on the bike, not on the side stand or center stand, reach down and try to lift the chain up and down at about the half way point between the sprockets. If it moves more than 5/8 inch it's too loose, less than 5/8 inch too tight.
Leo
 
Sorry for reviving an old thread but why start a new one for the same problem?

I have this problem on two bikes, a 1980 Special II and a 1977 D. I already bought the springs but the question is will I need to replace a gasket after taking that cover off? I'm assuming yes but I'd be so happy if the answer is no.

Side question- I noticed the symptoms of this after I tried to learn how to shift (up and down) without using the clutch. Yes it is very possible but on each bike that's what seemed to bring about the false neutrals and all of the other BS described in previous posts by others. I don't really do it on purpose anymore but is it possible that this technique would cause this problem if the spring was new?
Thanks in advance:thumbsup:
 
Sorry for reviving an old thread but why start a new one for the same problem?

I have this problem on two bikes, a 1980 Special II and a 1977 D. I already bought the springs but the question is will I need to replace a gasket after taking that cover off? I'm assuming yes but I'd be so happy if the answer is no.

If the gasket and mating surfaces were properly prepped for easy disassembly prior to the last assembly, then possibly no.

Side question- I noticed the symptoms of this after I tried to learn how to shift (up and down) without using the clutch. Yes it is very possible but on each bike that's what seemed to bring about the false neutrals and all of the other BS described in previous posts by others. I don't really do it on purpose anymore but is it possible that this technique would cause this problem if the spring was new?
Thanks in advance:thumbsup:

There is the slight chance of rapid/interrupted shiftdrum rotation during clutchless shifting. That would put extra stress on the shift stopper parts.
 
Well, I might as well resurrect this thread too. Same prob just occurred, out of the blue, on my '80. I guess a 38 year old spring is entitled to break after all this time. Hope that's all it is anyway!
 
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